• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Anyone do a valve adjustment on their 630?

shoolsema

Husqvarna
AA Class
I did a search and didn't come up with much? Any body check their valves at 600miles (1000km)? Was there any movement? did they tighten up?
I assume most guys are taking there bikes to the dealer for the 1st valve set, but i figured a few guys may have done it themselves.
 
Did mine recently, ~1200 miles, 2 were a bit loose and clattery (~0.002 over spec) and 2 were dead on. No mushrooming yet...
 
6000 miles is where I first had to add thicker shims.

There's a valve check video here that Coffee put up that explains it pretty well. It's for a different model Husky, but is done pretty much the same way.

If you want a written explanation and valve clearance specs, hit me up via PM for a shop manual, if you haven't done so already.
 
Shims? So the 630 doesn't use the screw valve adjusters? They use shims?
Yep, 3/8" diameter (9.5mm) in the ~2mm thick range.

You're thinking of adjusters like the 510? That's a single cam engine and uses actual rockers.
The lifters on the 630 resemble rockers, but the cams are directly over the valves.

630valves.jpg


Really easy to change though. Pop off a spring clip, slide the lifter over, pop out the shim and replace. None of that pull-both-cams, bucket-over-shim crap...
 
And...aren't the shims a pretty standard size/type that are available for some of the Japanese bikes...? IOW...they're cheap and plentiful.
 
And...aren't the shims a pretty standard size/type that are available for some of the Japanese bikes...? IOW...they're cheap and plentiful.

I believe some Yamahas use the same size shims. Single shims from Husky run in the $10-$12 range :rolleyes:
 
This website is great. Thanks for the quick replies. Jtemple, i already got the shop manual from you, Thank you. I have 400miles on the bike so far. Doesn't sound like i need to be too paranoid about setting the valves at exactly 600miles. You guys had to add thicker shims? Must be the nature of this head? On my husabergs the valves always wore into the seat and thus "TIGHTENED" up over time.
 
Really easy to change though. Pop off a spring clip, slide the lifter over, pop out the shim and replace. None of that pull-both-cams, bucket-over-shim crap...
Just don't drop a shim in there. You'll spend some time fishing it out. Don't ask me how I know. :D
 
This website is great. Thanks for the quick replies. Jtemple, i already got the shop manual from you, Thank you. I have 400miles on the bike so far. Doesn't sound like i need to be too paranoid about setting the valves at exactly 600miles. You guys had to add thicker shims? Must be the nature of this head? On my husabergs the valves always wore into the seat and thus "TIGHTENED" up over time.
I had to add thicker shims.
 
Just don't drop a shim in there. You'll spend some time fishing it out. Don't ask me how I know. :D
Oh, I know, I had to break out a short piece of safety wire on one of them...

And yeah, I needed thicker shims too. My left EX gap was 0.002" over with a 2.2mm shim, and the left IN gap was 0.002" over with a 2.0mm shim. I swapped the EX shim to the IN, which put it back in spec, and now I'm waiting on a 2.3mm shim to show up in the mail tomorrow from my dealer.
 
My old 07 610 also had the valves get looser with wear. It was explained to me that the extra lash was caused by the valve train wearing, not the valves themselves or the seats. But the 630 has a different valvetrain so I dunno.
 
Seems to me that valve wear would be mostly due to cam and rocker wear in the 630. I'm curious about what parts need replacing once you can't shim the valves any more.
 
Checked mine after 1000 km. Three out of four were loose. Bought a shim kit from http://www.motosportz.com/HVA-SS/HVA-SS-Home.htm . Good selection of shims.

Oh boy... :) I was planning on doing my first check at 1,000 miles (1600 km.) I am now at about 900 miles and have a ride planned for this Saturday (probably about an 80 mile ride)- any real harm in continuing to ride a bit more? All sounds as it has, and the bike is running well. I'd better order a shim kit- thanks for the link.

Thanks!

Eric
 
Oh boy... :) I was planning on doing my first check at 1,000 miles (1600 km.) I am now at about 900 miles and have a ride planned for this Saturday (probably about an 80 mile ride)- any real harm in continuing to ride a bit more? All sounds as it has, and the bike is running well. I'd better order a shim kit- thanks for the link.

Thanks!

Eric
When the valves get loose, they just don't open up as far. You won't do any permanent damage by letting them go a little. You may lose a little performance, but I doubt it'll even be noticeable.
 
Back
Top