• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Anybody have any good pics showing how to re-grease the swingarm and link bearings?

I only just did mine but didn't take photos :P sorry man.

Here's a basic walk through

Undo linkage bolts, Leave nuts on and tap the nut to free the bolts up and get it moving so u can remove the bolts without damaging the bolts thread. Some penetrating fluid helps and if there hard to get out just get them moving in an out and go a bit further each time :)

Make note of which bolt belongs where, doesn't really matter but I like to keep them in the same place :)
Also make note of which side the bolts face, I think it's nuts towards clutch side.

Remove inner sleeve for bearings and clean the grease out, if you have an air compressor this helps, if not soak them in cleaner and get a small paint brush. Lots a rags and get your fingers in there digging all the old crap out.
Leave to dry, put a towel over so not crap gets back in there while working on swing arm

Swing arms generally the same, remove the plastic frame protectors by cutting the cable ties and a bolt on the brake master cylinder. This will expose the bolts head and nut, undo the nut, this is tight so needs a breaker bar of some sort.
Also not where the spacers are in relation the swing arm etc etc. on my 2011 the swing arm spacers are the same thinkness so there's no left side right side. I still marked them just incase.
Now same as before, spray plenty of lube and work the bolt out with the nut still on to free it up, once it's free slide the bolt out, you may need to insert something from other end to help tap it through, just make shore this wont damage the bolts thread, I think my 1/2'' extension bar worked well here :)
Once the bolts out wiggle the swing arm free from the frame and engine, don't loose the spacers.
The chain can be left on you just need to remove the guide from bottom of swing arm and feed it around once it's off, don't forget when putting the arm back on to put the chain in the correct position :)
Now same as linkage clean the bearings and sleeves.

Repack all bearings with some good quality waterproof grease. Don't be shy throw it everywhere :)
Don't forget with the swing arm to put generous amounts where the bolt ones through the frame and the motor :)

Reassembly is the opposite, with the swing arm I found I easier to place the spacer there first, they have a little groove that goes with the engines groove (if that makes sence) a bit of grease will help them stay in place. Then just slightly wiggle the swing arm home. It helps to have something of smaller diameter when aligning the holes (screwdriver 12mm bar etc) cause its hard to see while holding the arm :)
Slide the bolt through, if there needs to be excessive force then something's not right. It should just tap home :)

Grab your torque wrench and do em up!! My book calls for some loctite one the swingarm nut.
If u need torque value for the swing arm bolt let me know,I think u already have the linkage and shock bolts??

That's about it :) if u need anything clearer just let me know :) hope this helps
 
same as above.

wear old clothes.

clean the sucker first- really good. remove the rr wheel.

pen and paper - write down the relationship to this and that. esp re: swingarm goodies.

air gun and sockets - cuts down on kneeling time.

cookie sheet - hold a cookie sheet or similar like a bakeing tray up to the danglely bits, drop the links on that. easier to find the needles when they fly out and try and run and hide under the bench. track them rascals down and cut the legs off 'em.

i pull the shock too when i do this and inspect the top bearing. make a 'strut' from some tubing aprox same OAL as the shock, hack a clevis in one end, drill holes in both ends and use that in place of the shock in case ya have to move the machine as it'l still roll then.
 
I recommend servicing the shock and linkage bearing at the same time. Also use a really good marine grease because water is the enemy.
 
Bel-Ray waterproof grease is pretty much THE grease to use of couse others will work.
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If the bearings are new, and you only want to ensure they are well greased, is there any need to remove them? If possible, I'd like to just wipe off as much as the old grease as possible, then put in some new Amsoil waterproof grease. I'm thinking bearing replacement will be an annual winter project, though, so if you don't mind sharing how to do that, it would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
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