Another WRX saved from the scrap heap!

[Eric The Leg]

Last night I was browsing CL and came across a "mid-eighties Husqvarna for parts" with no picture or description. So I e-mail the guy for pics and the frame/engine # and it's a nearly complete 85 400WRX!

I did pick it up (the price was right) and I've been trying to run the full and partial frame numbers through a few VIN check websites to verify that everything is clean and clear before I do real work on the bike (not that concerned, it's pretty clear it had been in one place for quite a while). The sites I've tried either come up saying invalid VIN (due to the Q in the full frame #, it starts with "Husqvarna") or not found if I do the frame # only. I'm thinking it's just one that's never been registered, but would like to be sure, does anyone have a favorite site they use for checking Husky frame numbers? (and recommendation on what portion to run?)

It has been kept in a semi-covered parking structure, and the back end plastic is completely rotted. It is missing the silencer and airbox, needs new radiators, intake manifold, hoses, chain, tires, brakes, etc. It has good compression and weak spark (they had the wrong plug in there, so there is still hope that the ignition may be OK), the carb appears to be all there. The engine actually looks good from the outside (i.e. no stains signalling major leaks, etc), I actually wonder if they had the engine out of the frame and in a building for a while at some point. The frame has clearly had a low quality rattle-can painting at some point. I've been pulling it apart and shaking my head at some of the P.O. repairs. Oh well.

There's no oil in the crank case and I cannot get it into neutral, so I'm afraid that I will need to split the case to service the transmission. Given the age and time out of service, a full overhaul is in order anyway.

I really don't have cash on hand at the moment for an intensive restore (NO THE BIKE IS NOT FOR SALE), so this one will be a project for a while, I do think I could have it in riding condition by next riding season though. Maybe a full restore down the road.

 

[Eric The Leg]

The initial picture

 

[suprize]

it looks the "GA" all right

 

[ruwfo]

Look here for serial #

http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/page/page/3895714.htm

Pull the left side cover (don't need to remove the kick starter or shifter), & look there for your shifting problem
before splitting the cases.


I fixed much worst bikes then this, it's a good start.


Husky John

 

[jimspac]

You may find no oil in there because when there last was it had coolant mixed into it. Very likely to find massive corrosion behind the water pump impellor. I got the same bike in 2007 in much better condition that what you got and found a major crater to repair there. You can fix quite a bit with epoxy and JB Weld. Looks like it spent time in a mx or hare scramble sub career.

You would not want to sell it anyway. Besides, it won't be worth that much for at least 3 years according to current NADA values.

 

[Eric The Leg]

A couple more photos for you.


Current status of tear down, as you can see the bottom of the link is not coming free, also it's time to drain coolant. I'm hoping a few more days of soaking with PB Blaster will help me to free the link (I'm basically soaking every bolt that is still attached to the bike). I haven't pulled a single flared 6MM nylock off of the bike, so someone's been over it a few times.

Anyone noticing the plumbing problems yet?

I took a photo of some of the hacked up P.O. repairs. Were the blue/white striped seats with the orange logo a thing? Also I'm finding a bit of entertainment in the "tank decals" made of logos cut out of seat covers. Non-matching exhaust springs and chain tension adjuster for added measure.

A couple of things based on the comments:
* It does have water in the radiators (granted it looks a little thin), so I don't know that I'm particularly concerned about water passing between the impeller and the crank case, but I will check for pitting once I pull the impeller.
* I was asking about checking the frame # for liens and/or theft reports. I read an article a while back that mentioned how much of a PITA it is to get ahold of a bike (even a vintage one) and then find out it was never actually paid off, or was stolen at some point.
* I'll try pulling the left side cover before tearing down completely. Though the cross-piped water pump does concern me.

 

[justintendo]

saw the plumbing issue there but didnt speak up. bik may run a bit hotter like that, maybe not.
if you are still using pb blaster try finding sea foam "deep creep". much better product than pb, especially when using a lil heat. my local napa carries it.

 

[jimspac]

The weak spark may be something simple like spotty grounding. May get better after removing the front engine mounts and cleaning all contact points on the frame and engine mounts.

 

[Eric The Leg]

I got a little time today, not enough to bother with pic updates, but after 2 days of morning/night PB blaster and using my 18 inch breaker bar, I've gotten the link off and the Ohlins free. I'm realizing that I'm now in possession of three Ohlins singles that are flat (my WR has some pressure, but my WRX and CR do not). None of them have been charged in quite a while, is it worth my while to simply try having them charged, or do I just need to buck up and find somewhere to send them for a rebuild?

I realize the PB Blaster is not the most powerful stuff out there, but my dad is a fan of the stuff and mildly forgetful, so bought me a can for almost every gift-giving occasion there is for a couple years. He eventually stopped and I've been working down the inventory. Strangely enough last year he gave me WD-40 at Christmas, I'm not sure what's up with that.

I'll go quiet until I've had some time to assess the engine (unless technical issues arise of course).

 

[troy deck]

so glad to see one getting saved

 

[justintendo]

if you have the funds i would recommend a freshening of the shock with at least fresh oil. some shops throw a full charge of nitrogen cheaply in but its always good to replace the rotted bumpstop and put new seals in..
wd40 is a poor penetrant/lube compared to pb, but at least its a good cleaner.

 

[suprize]

get the shock serviced.

it will be full of sludge, the oil will be like water and the seal is probably just on the verge of poohing itself. you will be sorely pissed if it lets go on the first ride and you have to pull everything to bits again.

 

[Eric The Leg]

I made 2-cycle exhaust today!

About 67 hours from bike in garage to first spark of life, a personal best for me on a Park'N'Rot bike! I worked (job) Monday and Tuesday too!

 

[Eric The Leg]

I figured I'd share a picture of my "dog pound". Based on the advice following my mention of Ohlins, I did pull them to take all 3 in for Service (in case anyone is wondering why the WR in the back is also slightly incomplete), just gotta' figure out where. The closest place that Ohlins USA recommends is a Beemer bike shop, if someone has another South-Puget-Sound area suggestion, I'll take it.

The 250 is completely disassembled right now, thus the frame in the background. That was actually my in-progress project before I stumbled into the WRX. I'll probably cannibalize some of the 250 parts to get the WRX to riding condition sooner, and then back-fill once I get back to the 250.



I really do anticipate slowing down on the posting in this thread, since I'll be moving into the 'part finding' phase soon.

Quick question while i'm at it though. How do you separate the front brake drum from the wheel/axle? Both of my other Huskies are disc up front, I've never had to do it.

 

[suprize]

undo the clamp bolts on the fork, undo the axle nut (don't lose that, they are hard to find) pull out the axle and then rotate the brake plate fork slider around as you pull the wheel out. schimples....

 

[jimspac]

It was the last of the drum hubs and the axle removal described works back thru many years of twin shockers. I have only have some piddling bits like air cleaner and brake and clutch cable adjusters. Somehow every Husqvarna I got is missing those

The WRX is more precious to me over the 86 400WR I have. Probably because there was so few made and it is a unique beast as it was the only WR to come from the factory with CR/XC suspension( at least in the 80's)

 

[Eric The Leg]

Allright, got new rear wheel bearings in. Front wheel is a little tweaked, so I took 3 wheels (both of the WRX wheels + the 86 WR rear) to local bike shop (Northwest European in Tacoma, they are a former Husky shop and do have some NOS Husky parts in inventory, though they tend to be reluctant to sell the NOS stuff) for tires, and to see if I could build a little goodwill in case I need something in a hurry and think they might have it. They agreed that the front rim is tweaked and will send it out to a wheel specialist to see if the rim can be straightened. I also took the Ohlins for both of my 400's to a local Ohlins certified suspension shop. They're cr`rocket heavy, so I'm sure they'll give me the business about my old-ass dirt bike shocks, but you deal with what you've got I guess.

So, at some point I realized that I was burning through money REALLY fast, and decided to burn a little rice this afternoon.


Things I'm taking suggestions on....
1) Exhaust. I'm pretty sure the WRX exhaust is something random the PO 'found a way' to fit on there, also even if it is right, it is beat to hell. My WR400 exhaust is also a little rough. Does anyone still recondition existing exhausts, or is it all the custom builders now? On a side note I have 2-3 husky exhausts sitting around that I'm not even sure what they go to, a couple are in decent shape, any suggestions for getting some $$ (or just use for someone who needs them) out of those?
2) Decals. The ones for the airbox that actually say 400 WRX, am I asking too much? I checked DC Plastics and didn't see anything specific to WRX.
3) plastic glue/bonding. The seat pan is in relatively good shape, though the middle hook on bottom (the one that hooks to the very top of the frame fairly well cracked (appears they just set it down without doing the 'slide it forward' maneuver). Anyone have suggestions for some sort of bonding agent I can use to seal up the cracks so they don't grow?
4) Anyone got a WR/WRX headlight+plastic or rear fender (and/or taillight) sitting around, maybe cast-off from a full restore that you could float me a decent price on?

 

[justintendo]

are you familiar with Husqvarna-parts.com?
lots of good parts available, like your airbox decals and such. some nice upgrades as well.
there are some places you can send pipes to and have them reconditioned, also dynoport makes nice pipes and silencers for any liquid swede.
honestly, on your seat, i have never used the "middle" attachment. the rear bolts and the front lug that is on the tank have always held very well for me. i actually bend the "middle" tab down out of the way as its just a pain in the ass, but just on the single shocks. i do ride my swedes alot and never had a problem with it. on the dual shock bikes its mandatory as all they have is the tab.

i like to burn a lil kwacka rice as well.

 

[justintendo]

post up some pics of the husky exhausts im sure they could be identified so you could get a few dollars for them.

the universal acerbis fenders work well for the single shock bikes, usually just have to cut the front part off.

 

[suprize]

phil has new aftermarket pipes