• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Another sheared flywheel woodruf key.

Think I'm going to put a little loctite 609 on the shaft instead of the oil. I'll oil the key so it does not stick.

What do you think?
 
R_Little said:
It's not that bad at all... actually the engagement is about 1". The Prussian blue shows an even fit all around.

I'll just lap it a little. The Manual says to coat the mating surface with oil....does that make sense?
Click to expand...

My misunderstanding was that the angle of the taper was substantially off. The same at one end, but .050 diff at the other, and assuming the same length overall. That would make the taper angle dramatically different. Way beyond what lapping could fix.

WRT the oil coating, I assume that's prior to final assembly. That's most likely to prevent the parts from permanently joining by galling. That sounds reasonable. If the taper is right and the assembly is properly torqued, it shouldn't move. Even without the key. Not that I'm suggesting that it shouldn't be used.
 
I wouldn't loctite; I'd just clean the surfaces with solvent. Then, come back and retorque after a heat cycle.
But, that's just me.
Don't lap it anymore than you already have.

Before I did that, though, I'd have the crank sent out and have the whole assembly balanced.
Again, that's just me. What I'm planning to do when I grenade mine.
 
water racer said:
I am wondering if the the TC's have a smaller flywheel and don't have this problem?
Click to expand...

The TC has a smaller flywheel no e-start and a different crank end. Totally different.

I think the main problem is the e-start.
The starter drives the flywheel....it's like a KTM 2 stroke starter but the 2 stroke does not have 11.5 to 1 compression!
 
The X-light has a worm drive starter system to save size and weight I guess.

The older bikes have an idler gear with a clutch. All these drive systems have to have a way to cope with the engine turning backwards (kickback). The woodruff key is most likely designed to shear rather than bust the engine cases!

The problem is when the manufacturing tolerances are too off or the assmebly is not torqued correctly or whatever.
 
Some of the TC's have a tight spot in the valve train rotation, something about needing to chamfer a lifter edge or something, I have felt it in mine and if the Te's are the same this could also be a problem.
 
water racer said:
Some of the TC's have a tight spot in the valve train rotation, something about needing to chamfer a lifter edge or something, I have felt it in mine and if the Te's are the same this could also be a problem.
Click to expand...

Really, I have one exhaust valve under the de-compressor which gives me odd readings from time to time.

one time .008 next time .010 next time .008....I think it's hanging somewhere.
 
Well it's together.

I'm gonna take one more look at the valves and start it up.

The good news is I pulled of the rt side motor case and used my gear jammer to tighten the flywheel as per the manual and I gotta tell you the motor is clean......not a speck in the filter or the oil pump intake screen.

Now I have to reassemble my spare motor.
 
Rich, what are you going to do with the bike once it's all finally fixed? I think if I had a bike that was this problematic, I would be trading it in to the dealer for another bike.
 
We'll it started 2nd kick and never sounded better.

The starter no longer makes a racket. Runs real clean...so far so good.

No leaks, No sputter, no strange noises.
 
Geno said:
so I guess when some turds gets polished sometimes ya do get a shiny one:lol::banana: great to here good luck
Click to expand...

We'll see when I take it in the woods. Sounds good, real good. Like a well engineered piece of equipment.

I think the loose exhaust valve that was under the compressor made it a touch harder to kick over.

The new old flywheel took all the noise out of the e-start. The Iridium plug must help too.

It starts with half a prod of the kickstarter now and pulls from zero rpm.

If the low rpm stalling is gone..I'll be good to go!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top