• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Aluminium Polish

M

mike328

Husqvarna
AA Class
I got some weak acid on the aluminium engine case of my Bull.. I have a dark gray blemish about the size of a cell phone on the case...I want to bring it back to its luster..
I have some 'mothers' metal polish but not really happy with that.

anyone have any 'recommended' aluminium polish?

I know its not "Husky"....but it's 'vintage'
 
The best I've ever found is autosol (comes in a toothpaste type of tube), just put a little dab on a cloth wrapped around your finger & do small areas at a time, you'll feel it go from slightly rough to mirror smooth, then with a clean cloth, buff it.:thumbsup:
 
thanks Ruffus I'll look online for autosol....
But still open to suggestions...

none of the below... just a polished cast aluminium case..



dartyppyt;134494 said:
By chance is the case anodized, painted, clear coated aluminum?

If it is, gonna be a tough one!
Click to expand...
 
Ruffus;134493 said:
The best I've ever found is autosol (comes in a toothpaste type of tube), just put a little dab on a cloth wrapped around your finger & do small areas at a time, you'll feel it go from slightly rough to mirror smooth, then with a clean cloth, buff it.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

X2 Autosol

:cheers:
 
I use Blue Magic polish. Advance Auto, and I think Walmart may still carry it. This stuff always gave better results on the polished bits of an old Triumph Bonneville I had vs the other redily available polishes. It has a finer jewelers rouge than many other brands
:thumbsup:
 

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Autosol --Aluminium polish as they said --:thumbsup:

Autosol also make a Plastic scratch remover polish and a metal one --

Going to need a lot of elbow grease --hehe --but works well
 
You might want to try a 1000 grit wet and dry emery paper first to cut through the discoloration - Aluminum is pretty porus and it may take a while to get back to bright metal with the polishes mentioned above (they lack serious abrasive cutting ability which may result in hours of polishing and no result) most of those polishes are simply a grit compound held in a paste - equivalent to a 3000grit emery paper (approximately)

I would test a fine grit paper with plenty of water on a spare peice of alloy casing and then once the emery paper is slightly worn in and you are sure that you are not going to damage the surface attack the real stain.

If you wanted to do away with the pastes althogether then fit a cloth polishing mop to a drill and do the final poilish using a hard polishing compound such as a rouge - or alloy specific polish compound (all this can be found at Home Depot)

The advantages of the right wet and dry paper followed by a drill powered polishing mop is that you can cut back metal and bring back a high or low finish polish to alloy very fast...

Avoid trying to repolish anodized or clear coated surfaces - giant head ache! (as noted by others in this thread)
 
If it was as easy as the side of the can says it is to polish aluminum, everyones aluminum would look like chrome. To fix and polish what your talking about you need electricity. This is a great kit. And by using your drill, you can leave the cover on the bike. Although it would be a lot easier taking it off and doing it on a bench.

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/alpolkit.htm
 
wow I like that kit.. To be honest with ya... the stuff at home depot is VERY limited or non existant. I am gonna try 0000 steel wool and some other stuff I got "Gords".

http://gordsaluminumpolish.com/

by the time I'm done I'll have an entire 'polishing shop'...LOL
 
Use fine Steel wool

I've used industrial grade steel wool (Home Depot), they sell a bunch
of different grades. The Fine to Very Fine will work awesome, with
surprisingly not to much effort.

Husky John
 
Watch the segment coming up in the 06 Wr125 redo. I am going to show how to polish the engine covers, swingarm, triple clamps and etc..... I go pretty fast with a showroom finish.
 
dartyppyt;135229 said:
Watch the segment coming up in the 06 Wr125 redo. I am going to show how to polish the engine covers, swingarm, triple clamps and etc..... I go pretty fast with a showroom finish.
Click to expand...

Looking forward to it. Please let us know where we can see this.
 
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