Alternative ibeat /cables

[Luis Mendes]

Hello riders..

Last week i make one project, but i do not test im yet...

I bought that conversor max232

and with that conversor

i will try to connect my pc to husqvarna te 250 2010. I learn that instructions in http://www.2y4t.com/8/viewtopic.php?p=1702528

Opinions?!

Luis Mendes / Portugal

 

[Aaron8]

Did you test it yet?

 

[eddychecker]

I am not an electronics guy. I know how to plug in a toaster. I can change out a bad light switch and I'm pretty handy with a broom. That being said, I was looking at the iBeat stuff for my 2011 TXC250. The price is pretty darn high, too much for me to mess with. While I have not done this, I wonder if it would work. I own an Aprilia Futura, ultra cool modern and exciting sport tourer circa 2001. It has a Sagem computer that is quite tune-able with the freeware tuning software Tune ECU . I have the OBD2 to USB adapter I bought from Amazon for ~$15 about three years ago. Following the forum instructions, I modified my OBD2 adapter to work with my Futura and had very good results. My adapter has similar output capabilities as the unit listed above. Looking at the output for ISO9141, the K Link (post 7 on the OBD2 connector) might just be the very one we need for the iBeat software and Mikuni EFI. I believe we would still need to use the iBeat software, that can be found online for download. The Tune ECU software would not work, or at least I don't think it will.

Here is the link for the Futura, BTW works excellent;
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...gnostic-for-Caponord-Futura&highlight=tuneecu
Here is a link for the OBD2 connector pinout:
http://www.mbcluster.com/Media_Diagnostics/ODBII Master Pinout.jpg

I tried it today and it works!

 

[Luis Mendes]

I have tested im but do not work... i connect +12 , Rx and gnd but she does not work...
Some one have a a alternative connection?!

 

[Aaron8]

Thanks for trying Luis

 

[eddychecker]

Luis, I found another solution. You do not need the semco connector, one from amazon works every bit as good, but it's only $8.00. I own an Aprilia Futura, ultra cool modern and exciting sport tourer circa 2001. It has a Sagem computer that is quite tune-able with the freeware tuning software Tune ECU . Following the forum instructions, I modified my OBD2 adapter to work with my Futura and had very good results. My amazon adapter has the output capabilities required for the iBeat software. Looking at the output for ISO9141, the K Link (post 7 on the OBD2 connector) is the very one we need for the iBeat software and Mikuni EFI. On the TXCi 250, the diagnostic plug has five wires attached to it, however I used only three of them. Pins 1,5 & 6 are the ones needed. 1 is for the computer interface, 5 & 6 are for the power coming from the bike. On the OBD2 connector, pins 5, 7 & 16 are the ones required. 7 is the interface wire, it connects to 1 on the bike. 5 & 16 are for the positive and negative from the bike (5&6)


Here is a link for the OBD2 connector pinout:
http://www.mbcluster.com/Media_Diagnostics/ODBII Master Pinout.jpg

I tried it today and it works!

 

[Luis Mendes]

eddychecker tanks for the information, i will test that OBD2 connector with a friend(eletrical auto) wo have that connector and then we send feedback. That is much mor easy to try than my experience

http://www.cafehusky.com/members/eddychecker.29164/

 

[Luis Mendes]

sorry for bold color :S

 

[eddychecker]

No worries, good luck and post your progress.

 

[Luis Mendes]

Eddychecker tanks for the instructions They work fine and without problems the cable and communication to the bike.

For other users, you can make that alternative cable to use ibeat.

Now i have some questions:
For a TE 250 2010 with factory exhaust with silencer and a yellow injector ( injector 6 hole port)
What is the best feedback adaptation CO1, CO2 and CO3? what is the O2 long term adaptation? On the step channels/view mode we can make changes?

On my bike i have a CO1= 100%, CO2=100% and CO3= 100% and the TPS adjustment at 1021mV.

With that configuration i i'm not happy because the bike have a low reaction ( Throttle-engine). When i accelerate the bike takes much time to respond and makes a strange noise and noise is like a drowned in the air filter... that happens on beginning of the acelerator when i set some throttle and drop imidiately 3 or 4 times...
What do you recommend for me?

Tanks for all.. really

 

[Luis Mendes]

That is my cable homemade and he work fine...

One last question.. Is it possible to change map values on the bike? with TuneECU or other program..»?

 

[lsd7]

Hi,

I have followed all steps as described by numerous posts and I simply cannot make the connection to ibeat. I have narrowed my results down to the point where I think the cheap Chinese ch340 chip is not capable of connecting to ibeat. I can't find a cable with the FTDI chip so can Eddiechecker double confirm that you have an Ftdi chip or not? Do you have any alternative solution?

 

[eddychecker]

That is my cable homemade and he work fine...

One last question.. Is it possible to change map values on the bike? with TuneECU or other program..»?

If you search this forum, you can find the iBeat program available for download. With that program, you can adjust the CO levels in 3 stages and adjust the TPS.

 

[eddychecker]

Hi,

I have followed all steps as described by numerous posts and I simply cannot make the connection to ibeat. I have narrowed my results down to the point where I think the cheap Chinese ch340 chip is not capable of connecting to ibeat. I can't find a cable with the FTDI chip so can Eddiechecker double confirm that you have an Ftdi chip or not? Do you have any alternative solution?

How do I check which chip my adapter has? I have yet to write up my process for connecting the adapter to the Husky because my 32 bit computer has died. All of the others I have are 64 bit.

 

[lsd7]

How do I check which chip my adapter has? I have yet to write up my process for connecting the adapter to the Husky because my 32 bit computer has died. All of the others I have are 64 bit.

Thanks for the response.
You probably have the genuine ftdi chip if you did not encounter any problems previously.
You can run windows XP in virtual box mode which is not so difficult since there are numerous guides available.
I, on the other hand need to reorder a new cable with the correct chip and wait for three weeks again and cross my hands it won't be a fake.

 

[millenium7]

So that we don't get the cable upside down, how do we identify which are pins 1 & 2 for orientation?

And just to be crystal...
Pin 5 on the OBD goes to pin 5 on the bike
Pin 7 on the OBD goes to pin 1 on the bike
Pin 16 on the OBD goes to pin 6 on the bike
Is that correct?
What about pin '4' on the OBD cable? Is that optional in case pin 5 doesn't work as a ground?

 

[millenium7]

Also 64bit shouldn't be a problem. That virtual mode as above is one option, however its not available for all copies of windows as far as I know, and i've never used it myself.

Other option is to use Oracle Virtualbox. Install that and run it, create a new VM and follow the prompts. Use either a windows XP image (.iso) or an actual windows disc and then install that into the virtualmachine. What you effectively have is a copy of windows XP running as an application on your computer. And yes it will be running as a 32 bit application if its windows XP. Once windows XP is installed and setup, click on the 'Devices' menu at the top and then 'Insert Guest Additions CD image'. Install guest additions. After you restart the virtualmachine you can go to 'Devices' then 'USB Devices' and pick your OBD2 to USB cable and it'll be attached to the virtualmachine. Then run iBeat

I'm yet to physically connect a cable, but I do have ibeat running on a 64bit computer this way. It doesn't run natively, but it runs fine in a virtual machine

 

[Greg712]

Hey guys. First I want to thank all of you for your helpful info on the Ibeat altrernative cable. I followed eddycheckers instructions and it communicates well with my 10 510SMR. The only issue I had was with the Amazon obd2 adapter I bought. At first it would not work like millennium7 had mentioned. After I opened up the connector I noticed that they sent the cable with the signal ground wire soldered to pin 4 not 5. Once I adjusted my 3 wire home made cable to follow suit it began to work. I noticed too that you have to have the ignition red button in the run position on the handlebar for it to communicate. Hope this helps you out millennium7. If you need more specifics on wire set up let me know. I can send some pics of wire orientation.

 

[millenium7]

I would appreciate if you could. I still don't know which orientation is correct???
Does it go
123
456

or
135
246

And which way around? When looking at the plug on the bike, is there a notch which designates 'up' so that I know which corner is pin 1?

 

[millenium7]

So my cable finally arrived. I ordered this one specifically http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271803567443?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Which looks exactly the same as the amazon one linked - except I could actually buy it because its in Australia

I got 3 wires and crimped some small female connectors on that are the perfect size to slide over the ODB2 pins
As for the other side, I still don't have a solid answer as to which pins are what number. But I discovered there's only 5 wires on the back of the bike's plug. Looking at the picture provided by Luis Mendez, I presume the pinout is
123
-56
As in the missing pin is '4'. Is that correctly?
That's how I assumed it would be. So anyway since I don't have an exact fitting bit of metal to slot into the connector, I just added some solder to the wire on the other end to make each wire rigid then poked them into the holes. Pins 1, 5, 6 on the bike to pins 7, 5, 16 on the OBD2 respectively. Started iBeat, set it to the correct COM port. No connection. Tried switching pin 5 for pin 4 on the OBD2, nothing. Tried starting the bike, nothing. I tried jiggling wires repeatedly to try and get a solid contact, nothing. Tried all sorts of things repeatedly and got onthing

Now i'm not sure if the problem lies with my connectors, the OBD2 adapter, the fact that i'm using a virtual machine (I could just reinstall Windows XP onto it from scratch instead of 7 64bit) or some other voodoo
It's been mentioned that pins 5 & 6 on the bike are positive and negative power respectively, is that right? I tried getting a voltage reading with a multimeter and i'm not registering anything. I figured it would be 12v, making me think that maybe i'm just not getting a connection? Can someone who's made a successful cable, do some checks with a multimeter? If you are getting X volts and i'm not then I know i'm not even making a solid connection and should address that. No idea what to use for good 'pins' though