• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All cleared...curing, then polishing

ascribner

ascribner

Husqvarna
AA Class
Thanks Lee for the excellent brand new parts as promised!

Two coats of adhesion promoter and 5 clear.

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WP_20130219_002.jpg
 
Ahh so you nabbed those touratech bits, They look nice but so expensive to get 'em all new.
 
Soviet said:
why did you use adhesion promoter?
Click to expand...

Painting plastics, it is advisable to use an adhesion promoter (clear primer)


Caiman said:
Ahh so you nabbed those touratech bits, They look nice but so expensive to get 'em all new.
Click to expand...


Yup. The price was very good buying from someone instead of a store. I have other carbon items I will have to build because nobody makes them, so I will purchase the ones I can (since I know the amount of work that goes into making these.
 
ascribner said:
Painting plastics, it is advisable to use an adhesion promoter (clear primer)
Click to expand...

True, but the epoxy used in carbon, kevlar, or fiberglass isn't chemically close to plastic. It's actually closer to a clearcoat with glue. Though I don't think you've hurt anything, you don't have to use an adhesion promotor on carbon or fiberglass. The epoxies they use are very compatible with any modern eurothane clearcoat and won't cause issues IF the epoxy is fully cured. What is more important than anything is sanding the gelcoat thats comes on the carbon so the clear has something to bite. Just FYI.
 
Soviet said:
True, but the epoxy used in carbon, kevlar, or fiberglass isn't chemically close to plastic. It's actually closer to a clearcoat with glue. Though I don't think you've hurt anything, you don't have to use an adhesion promotor on carbon or fiberglass. The epoxies they use are very compatible with any modern eurothane clearcoat and won't cause issues IF the epoxy is fully cured. What is more important than anything is sanding the gelcoat thats comes on the carbon so the clear has something to bite. Just FYI.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. If they start to peel, I will do them properly next time. These parts have no gelcoat though. I just cleaned them really well with acetone and sprayed them. I used the cheap Duplicolor can from Autozone because I did not feel like turning on the compressor for such a small job. Well, main thing is I was over anxious to get them installed and wanted to clear them first. Eh, it is not a showroom clear by any means. Now you have me debating why I just did a half hearted effort on the nice carbon...shame on me actually.
 
LOL. its okay. We all get excited. Even without a gelcoat, the epoxy in the carbon can be scuffed per normal and then the clear can be shot right over top. you don't have to go crazy sanding. If you're using a catalysed medium solids clear, and plan to put on at least 3 coats, 400 is plenty fine. Especially after a nice cut and buff. The stuff will glow and you won't have any sanding scratches. Its strange how you can go buy a 3000 dollar carbon trunk for an evo10, and it would look like junk in 1 year under california sun. The makers of this high end stuff do very little to protect the investment by putting some nice UV protective clear over top. I dunno if they are scared of weight, more cost, or who knows?
 
Soviet said:
LOL. its okay. We all get excited. Even without a gelcoat, the epoxy in the carbon can be scuffed per normal and then the clear can be shot right over top. you don't have to go crazy sanding. If you're using a catalysed medium solids clear, and plan to put on at least 3 coats, 400 is plenty fine. Especially after a nice cut and buff. The stuff will glow and you won't have any sanding scratches. Its strange how you can go buy a 3000 dollar carbon trunk for an evo10, and it would look like junk in 1 year under california sun. The makers of this high end stuff do very little to protect the investment by putting some nice UV protective clear over top. I dunno if they are scared of weight, more cost, or who knows?
Click to expand...

Yup, I just got some UV protection on it ASAP. I will redo it later if it needs to be.
 
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