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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Air Filter
- Thread starter Ben Mack
- Start date
ThunderPaw
Husqvarna
B Class
About 2/3 probably. Your right, it's no test. I believe the guys who say they are not as good. Just good enough for my conditions for now. The valves did look great too, at least as far as i know how to tell. I Filled up the ports with solvent and no leakage observed. Also, they cleaned up nice with no erroision around the edges or discoloration.
I will tell you my clutch started slipping. Replaced the clutch plates and then found out it was the springs. They collapse or get shorter with fatigue. I am learning this whole motorsport thing as i go. Oh, and i had a cam bearing go out. Thats why i tore it down to begin with. is that a cat or some kind of whombat?
What I've experienced with K&N is that the "clean" side of the airbox gets oily. So it wouldn't be accurate to weigh the filters to determine quantity of trapped particles as the K&N is loosing weight.
Many years ago I found a Japanese street racer site where the boys fabricated an impressive test. Used a shop vac, a measured quantity of copier toner, and coffee filters. Compared the color of the coffee filters after toner was sucked through the air filters under test with the coffee filter on the "clean" side. K&N did the poorest at filtering, OE paper filter was best. Foam filters had almost the same airflow as K&N and almost the same filtering as paper filters. There was unexpected variations in filtering with foam filters which was attributed to choice of oil, and just who did the oiling.
15 years ago. Get a good quality foam filter (I love the moose filters with the neoprene sealing lip) and good quality oil and never look back.
HUSKYnXJnWI
Husqvarna
AA Class
Thunderpaw- I appriciate greatly that you have accepted the advice given against the K&N. MANY, can't let go of the advertising hooks and feel even more confident in the product once they spent the money. Shows your charector taking the advice at this point.
All good advice given- hard to go wrong with quality filter, oil, and cleaner. Personally I am running the Moose, and the twin air. I prefer the moose as Kelly (motosportz) has stated with its neophrane seal. It is smaller diameter than the twinair and makes instalation slightly easier. I always remove the battery- just placing to the side- leaving cables attatched and always check they did not loosen on reassembly. I use PJ1 spray oil and cleaner. Never found instalation too troublesome- guess it is practice.
With the dust I have dealt with (often riding in packs- ds/offroad) I would never choose anything but foam.
All good advice given- hard to go wrong with quality filter, oil, and cleaner. Personally I am running the Moose, and the twin air. I prefer the moose as Kelly (motosportz) has stated with its neophrane seal. It is smaller diameter than the twinair and makes instalation slightly easier. I always remove the battery- just placing to the side- leaving cables attatched and always check they did not loosen on reassembly. I use PJ1 spray oil and cleaner. Never found instalation too troublesome- guess it is practice.
With the dust I have dealt with (often riding in packs- ds/offroad) I would never choose anything but foam.
pvduke
Husqvarna
Pro Class
everytime you clean a filter you damage it. be it pleated, foam etc.
foam is more resillient and lasts longer, but, they do breakdown from use.
pleated one's are junk after the first cleaning- it's a bogus design. we've done studies here on them and they are high priced junk. dealers are instructed to tell customer this. they can even jeapordise your engine coverage. we have TSB's and SN's on these products. your engine, use what ya want but i absolutely do not recomend pleated gause/wire filters.
foam is more resillient and lasts longer, but, they do breakdown from use.
pleated one's are junk after the first cleaning- it's a bogus design. we've done studies here on them and they are high priced junk. dealers are instructed to tell customer this. they can even jeapordise your engine coverage. we have TSB's and SN's on these products. your engine, use what ya want but i absolutely do not recomend pleated gause/wire filters.
They are great for street bikes and cars and then you toss them and put another one in.
pvduke
Husqvarna
Pro Class
yep- when a pleated paper filter gets dirty, toss it. leave them K/N etc ones be. the grit on the street and sandy area's is silica based, super hard stuff. gause/wire filters dont stop it. here's a sample of what im refering to from the auto side. applies to bikes too....
SN 4/2005:
Cold Air Intake Systems and Low-Restriction Air Filters:
A Word to the Wise
Cold air intake systems and low-restriction air
filters are hot aftermarket accessories. Popular
among the import tuner crowd, these items may
improve engine performance by letting the
engine breathe more deeply, reducing the intake
air temperature, and cutting down on weight. And
for that all-important sound when you wind up
the engine, cold air intake systems help produce a
deep, throaty tone.
Stock air intake systems are designed to clean the
intake air, minimize intake noise, and keep water
from getting into the intake tract, all the while
putting out the most horsepower and torque.
Although cold air intake systems and lowrestriction
air filters kick up engine performance a
notch,
they also have their dark side. They can
really mess up the engine, and that’s not covered
by warranty!
With cold air intake systems, you run the risk of
engine damage from hydrolocking if you drive in
wet weather or plow through standing water.
These systems are usually designed to draw air
from the bottom of the engine compartment or
from the front of the radiator where the air is cold
and dense. The air filter used in these systems
doesn’t sit in an air box, so water that gets sucked
into the filter gets sucked right into the engine.
When enough water gets into the engine, the
piston can’t fully compress the air/fuel mixture
(water doesn’t compress) so it stops before
reaching top dead center (TDC). Even though the
piston stops, the crankshaft just keeps turning
from inertia. As a result, the connecting rod bends
and gets shorter. With each compression and
power stroke, the connecting rod flexes until it
eventually fails from metal fatigue.
With low-restriction air filters, you run the risk of
premature engine wear and contamination. Some
of these filters just don’t work as well as stock air
filters do. Microscopic debris can get past the
filter, causing premature wear of the pistons,
piston rings, cylinders, and valves. It can also foul
up the throttle body and the components of the
intake manifold runner control (IMRC), intake
manifold tuning (IMT), and idle air control (IAC)
systems.
So what’s the bottom line here? Tell your
customers they’re taking a really big risk if they
run the vehicle with a cold air intake system or a
low-restriction air filter. Engine damage caused by
these items isn’t covered by warranty, and that
could take a big bite out of their pocketbook.
SN 4/2005:
Cold Air Intake Systems and Low-Restriction Air Filters:
A Word to the Wise
Cold air intake systems and low-restriction air
filters are hot aftermarket accessories. Popular
among the import tuner crowd, these items may
improve engine performance by letting the
engine breathe more deeply, reducing the intake
air temperature, and cutting down on weight. And
for that all-important sound when you wind up
the engine, cold air intake systems help produce a
deep, throaty tone.
Stock air intake systems are designed to clean the
intake air, minimize intake noise, and keep water
from getting into the intake tract, all the while
putting out the most horsepower and torque.
Although cold air intake systems and lowrestriction
air filters kick up engine performance a
notch,
they also have their dark side. They can
really mess up the engine, and that’s not covered
by warranty!
With cold air intake systems, you run the risk of
engine damage from hydrolocking if you drive in
wet weather or plow through standing water.
These systems are usually designed to draw air
from the bottom of the engine compartment or
from the front of the radiator where the air is cold
and dense. The air filter used in these systems
doesn’t sit in an air box, so water that gets sucked
into the filter gets sucked right into the engine.
When enough water gets into the engine, the
piston can’t fully compress the air/fuel mixture
(water doesn’t compress) so it stops before
reaching top dead center (TDC). Even though the
piston stops, the crankshaft just keeps turning
from inertia. As a result, the connecting rod bends
and gets shorter. With each compression and
power stroke, the connecting rod flexes until it
eventually fails from metal fatigue.
With low-restriction air filters, you run the risk of
premature engine wear and contamination. Some
of these filters just don’t work as well as stock air
filters do. Microscopic debris can get past the
filter, causing premature wear of the pistons,
piston rings, cylinders, and valves. It can also foul
up the throttle body and the components of the
intake manifold runner control (IMRC), intake
manifold tuning (IMT), and idle air control (IAC)
systems.
So what’s the bottom line here? Tell your
customers they’re taking a really big risk if they
run the vehicle with a cold air intake system or a
low-restriction air filter. Engine damage caused by
these items isn’t covered by warranty, and that
could take a big bite out of their pocketbook.
ThunderPaw
Husqvarna
B Class
(Responding to shorter qoute) The jury is definately fully in. Thanks for all the info. I think i will change back sooner than latter. Glad i offered some bad advise. Guess we can put this one to rest.