• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Air Filter

Ben Mack

Husqvarna
I Have a 2010 TE 310,
I find it hard and frustrating to place the tricky little bolt back to secure my airfilter after cleaning.:banghead:

can any one suggest a mod or alternative ???
 
slide the bolt into the filter first them squeeze the filter into the airbox. Makes it muchhh easier.
 
And you are flipping your battery up and out of the way right? I know, might be a stupid question, but in the manual is shows the battery lifted out and hanging off the left side while working on the air cleaner.
 
Because of these issues, i got a K&N filter and now have peace of mind.
It is made of cloth with a built in spark screen. Expensive at $90 but it is easy to install/uninstall and is very durable. I haven't observed any
evidence of bypass when cleaning it. For me $ well spent.
 

Attachments

Get one of those lights that strap to your head. It helps to use both hands and see where the bolt is and where it's supposed to go.
 
In stead of guessing how to put it in, try doing it without the filter on the cage.
You will get the feel for the cage registering over the bracket and snaping into place. It's all about the feel. This way there is no guessing, or fumbling.
Later george
 
eggzacahry- feel it man! : neg cable off, bat out, filter off, bolt in cage, cage indexed into screen and post, pop. done.

there's also a tab for [up] on the filter. when it's all oriented propperly it goes right in all by itself. if not- it either brakes the cage or wont go on.

once you get the "sandiwch" of parts in hand and get it positioned, keep one hand on the filter/cage assbly so it wont move while you turn the screw and it all gets drawn home.

practice "the feel" with grease on the flame trap seal (you do grease it right??!!) then pull the filter and check your seal on the filter lip making mental notes of how it felt when it all went home at once for a good seal.

yoo can doo it!
 
K&N's will and can leak both dirt and water, on the street OK, but what really happens is the pleats trap dirt then act as a sifter. PIA to clean, reason they say brush it off and re-oil. Well made product just doesn't work that well.
Just because it makes it easier is not always the answer.
Later George
 
Up-tite;142089 said:
K&N's will and can leak both dirt and water, on the street OK, but what really happens is the pleats trap dirt then act as a sifter. PIA to clean, reason they say brush it off and re-oil. Well made product just doesn't work that well.
Just because it makes it easier is not always the answer.
Later George

I guess its awful for me to set the tone with my first post here in agreeing with George. Not for agreeing with George, but in agreeing with what he said. :)

K&N's popularity as an air filter has more to do with marketing, and almost nothing to do with performance. Yes, they have less restriction but unless you are at full throttle your right hand will compensate for the less restriction by closing the throttle.

For many a K&N filters "good enough", but never "as good as could be."

--
David
 
That is bad news to me. Is this recent knowledge or something learned15 years ago?

I supose it would be easy enough to do an experiment with a blower, operating for a long time, some fine and varied soil, and a white post filter possibly like something used for air quality particulate sampling.

Any more info on the matter?
 
Hows that KN gonna respond to water touching it? ...

You are probably afraid of 2 things: 1) touching the filter as you put it in the air box. 2) getting your hands oily ... forget both of these issues ...
 
Just take the clean oiled filter, put it on the cage, insert the keeper bolt and then take that "stack" and put it in a plastic grocery store bag so you can hold it without getting oil everywhere on your hands. Insert and attach the filter then you can remove the bag to tighten the keeper bolt.

Do your self a favor and let the battery hang to the side to make more room. It is not that hard, as mentioned PRACTICE it a couple of times with the clean filter before you oil it so you know how to do it properly and it will become second nature.

But I always take the extra minute to check the seal to make sure you didn't leave a place for dirt to ingress.........and use filter grease on the lip! I see so many guys that are too lazy to use it and it does help keep your seal.
 
K&N vs FOAM

ThunderPaw;142103 said:
That is bad news to me. Is this recent knowledge or something learned15 years ago?

I supose it would be easy enough to do an experiment with a blower, operating for a long time, some fine and varied soil, and a white post filter possibly like something used for air quality particulate sampling.

Any more info on the matter?



This was actually part of my job and it wouldn't be that hard if you had the time. You could get a pretty accurate result of at least how much dirt gets through with that you said. As long as you used an accurate set of scales ie 0.01g (or better!). Keep the flow rate and time on the suction constant for both filter tests. Use the same weight of soil/dust. Measure the B4 and after weight of both filters (K&N/Foam) and the white particulate filter. Calculate the difference..

I think both would have similar dust removal properties. Ive got a K&N in the car but a Twin Air foam one in the TE. Mainly because
- it's easier to clean the foam one
- it'd be more resistant to frequent cleaning (K&N is designed for what, 10,000km cleaning intervals?)
- when the foam eventually deteriorates it is more or less disposable and buy another one
- it doesnt cost $90 big ones..
 
Thanks,
For now i will keep the KN on and monitor it since i don't operate in
very dusty conditions. Maybe i will put a foam prefilter on it like a sock
for extra peace of mind. The oem filter thing was not onerous for me
but i like this procedure better. It's good to be informed that it's
not such a slam dunk after all. My piston and cylinder did look very good at a 10,000 mi tear down.
 
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