• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st advice for damaged chrome stanchion/slider?

shawbagga

shawbagga

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Hey all i copped a rock a month or so back that broke my lower plastic fork guard & chipped/scratched the stanchion tube(i think thats what its called-the chrome slider?). it caused the seal to leak a little. i cleaned it up & the seal doesnt seem to be leaking anymore although ill still replace to be sure. the scratch is only about 5mm long & it catches my nail when i touch it. rechroming the stanchion is gonna cost me $200-$300. Question is, can i sand the scratch down to smooth it out so the seal wont leak? wet/dry paper the go & what grade? anyone done the same? id rather not spend the money(want a lectron!) but dont want the stanchion to look like a dogs breakfast either!
 
Would very fine, like 000 steel wool and about a gazillion passes smooth it. I know I can polish anything from aluminum wheels to gun stocks with no damage. Maybe?
Dave
 
Yeh 400 sounds safe if u concentrate on knocking the burr down. Then move up to 800 or 1000. If you have to fill an area nail polish/epoxy/jb weld will work.

Pretty common on mtb forks which are basically the same.
 
I smooth tons of flaws from forklegs all the time. Like Avid said, concentrate on knocking the bur down. An oilstone can be best for this, paper tends to not be aggressive enough and bends over the burr, working the surrounding area too much. Finish it off with 600 then 1000 grit. Wrapping the paper around a round wooden dowel helps direct the pressure the best. WORK SLOWLY! Don't be in a hurry and have excellent lighting.:thumbsup:
 
MotoMarc36 said:
I smooth tons of flaws from forklegs all the time. Like Avid said, concentrate on knocking the bur down. An oilstone can be best for this, paper tends to not be aggressive enough and bends over the burr, working the surrounding area too much. Finish it off with 600 then 1000 grit. Wrapping the paper around a round wooden dowel helps direct the pressure the best. WORK SLOWLY! Don't be in a hurry and have excellent lighting.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
thanks for the advice all. where would one get an oilstone from?
 
And if you decided to replace it, Let me know, I can point you to a set of new black Nitrited stanchions for just over 300 in California, Vs. waiting 6 months (yes, that 6 months is NO JOKE) from Marzocchi over the pond.
 
Blakelpd5 said:
And if you decided to replace it, Let me know, I can point you to a set of new black Nitrited stanchions for just over 300 in California, Vs. waiting 6 months (yes, that 6 months is NO JOKE) from Marzocchi over the pond.
Click to expand...
mate if i cant get nick smoothed down & sorted id rather buy 2 new ones as opposed to one repaired one for that price! they are KYB forks though
 
After you've smoothen it with 400, and before you go 800 to 1000, grab some clear nail polish off the missus and brush it over your scratch. Let dry and proceed to further smoothen with 800 and 1000 (wet and dry of course).
 
Hey Shawry
You can get an oilstone from a tackle shop, a small fine one that has a Vee formed into one side like used for sharpening fish hooks .
First clean the area with carb or brake cleaner to remove the oil, then fill the "Hole/chip in the chrome" with a drop of superglue then let it dry overnight.
Sand the area with 400 until the majority of the superglue is gone, then use the flat side of the stone with a little WD spray, very lightly, to take just the burr off the edge of the "Hole" where the metal is pushed up, so it doesn't nick the seal as it moves up & down.
Then hit it with 600 & then 1000 grit wet & dry with WD spray, the chrome is very hard but very thin on the edge so go easy, as you dont want a lot of scratches from sanding.
The superglue fills the "Hole" & the stone takes the burr off the edge of the "Hole" & brings the finished surface a lot closer to the original level than just taking the burr off.
Works a treat.:thumbsup:
 
AUSKY said:
Hey Shawry
You can get an oilstone from a tackle shop, like the ones used for sharpening fish hooks, the small fine one that has a Vee formed into one side.
Cairns Hardware may even have them or Supercheap. They are a lot easier to use like the big one that are used to sharpen chisels.
First clean the area with carb or brake cleaner to remove the fork oil, then fill the "Hole/chip in the chrome" with a drop of superglue then let it dry overnight.
Sand the area with 400 until the majority of the superglue is gone then use the flat side of the stone with a little WD spray, very lightly, to take just the burr off the edge of the "Hole".
Then hit it with 600 & then 1000 grit wet & dry with WD spray but go easy on it, the chrome is very hard but very thin on the edge & you dont want a lot of deep scratches from sanding.
The superglue fills the "Hole" & the stone takes the burr off the edge of the "Hole" where the metal is pushed up & brings the finished surface a lot closer to the normal level than just taking the burr off.
Works a treat.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
superglue or jb weld u reckon? when you home mate, scared im gonna make a meal of this!
 
Hey I really like that superglue tip! I've never tried that but I bet it will help seal off the bare metal and prevent corrosion!:thumbsup: as well as filling a depression. Often fixing the "burr" leaves bare metal which is prone to rusting... good stuff guys!
 
I have been using super glue for all sorts of things and usually don't leave home without it. I even repaired a big cut in a truck tire tread.
The thing about JB Weld is that it is so thick that a small application like filling a scratch would be tough without getting way too much, requiring lots of sanding.
Good idea.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top