• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st AC to DC for $9. It works!

Al H

Al H

Husqvarna
AA Class
For our recreational registration over here (Aus) we need an operational headlight, tail light and stop light. My WR250 2001 had a head light only which wasn't operational. I wanted to run a nice small LED under the rear guard where I have to also fit the number plate. The AC ran the headlight fine but to run the LED properly I needed DC. Apparently AC will run the LED but with only half the power supplied as the LED's knock out half the AC to produce DC (so I've read and sounds right!)

I purchased a regulator/rectifier of Ebay that suits the Chinese pit bikes etc for $9 and a tail light assy for $35 locally.

The reg/rec has four terminals but you only need to use three.

Works brilliant for the LED tail/stop lights but the headlight is dim with the output equivalent to a parking light. I don't know the reason for this as yet but it's not a biggie. I could still run AC to the headlight. Also I want to check out my options on a LED setup for the head light.

If anyone wants the simple wiring diagram, let me know.

Sorry for the poor pics, the phone is having a brain fart.

002.jpg013.jpg006.jpg017.jpg
 
4 Wire wo Battery HI.JPG

This diagram isn't exactly representative of my bike but it will give the idea.

Mine doesn't have the white wire from the stator so I'm only using three terminals. The white is used for charging a battery.

Top left marked here as 'HOT' is used to power your lights. In this dia it is going to the CDI which is how some bikes do it.

Bottom right to frame (earth)

At 14.4V ( it did go up to 17.V) the out put is 45W. Even at 17V it will be fine for LED's. I have a LED headlight globe coming.

Your yellow from your stator to the top right
 
Al H said:
After this conversion the normal incandecent globe was dull. I have since fitted the LED globe which works well. Don't know at this stage how bright at night but it makes it leagal, at least in our state. There are brighter LED's I must try one now I know this system works.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261565057086?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

View attachment 48797
Click to expand...
Nice to know, been contemplating same bulb. Awaiting night riding report using it.
 
Centerline said:
Nice to know, been contemplating same bulb. Awaiting night riding report using it.
Click to expand...

I bought a cheap rec/reg and globe in case the idea was a waste of time but it works well with the fitted LED tail light etc. There are what looks to be brighter globes for the headlight if you after more output.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171216468562?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251715938335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

I'll light it up in the paddock tonight and give you some feedback.
 
Thanks...... Yeah I've seen two advertised really bright LED BA20D lights $50 for one, the other more on Ebay.

Yes hoping for output enough for safe night illumination at about 50 mph.
 
I checked that globe in complete darkness. It surprised me as to how bright it was. The problem with my headlight, the Polisport combined with this LED globe is the light is pretty well thrown about. It's more than likely the globe regarding LED placement. It wouldn't be safe at 50 mph in my configuration. If you needed to rely on it to get you out of the bush, yeah sure but not safe for almost highway speeds. Maybe if the light was more concentrated.

I have bought this globe so I have a 4 week wait for it to arrive. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171216468562?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648 I wouldn't bother with the second globe I listed as it's only low output according to the seller. Looks impressive but nuh!
 
Hi. Where in oz are you?

Did you disconnect the earth from the stator to the chassis?
If you don't it has the potential to burn out your stator. Might be why you were getting a dull output on the headlight because if you wired it the way I think you did then you're only getting half a cycle and shorting the other half across the rectifier to ground.

I did a DC conversion on my wr125 with a cbr600 rectifier/regulator.

You need to take the fly wheel off and disconnect the earth and wire it straight the the rectifier.
 
Hi Spoonshark, Beechworth Nth East Vic.

The only difference I see with your two diagrams is one is using a common earth (frame) and the other a neg wire. AC to the rec/reg where it is converted to 12V DC

Elaborate if you could mate.
 
Thats exactly right.
To understand you have to know how a rectifier works. To explain I will split it into two cycles. Also you have to understand current runs from negative to positive not from positive to negative. Google conventional current motion.

On positive cycle we can operate fine and the current will run where you want it to go. In coming positive is at the top and negative at the bottom.
pos.jpg

But on the negative cycle we have a problem.
neg.jpg
 
" You need to take the fly wheel off and disconnect the earth and wire it straight the the rectifier "

Flywheel off, stator out and disassembled but there isn't an earth wire. In the meantime I'll look into it further.
 
Ok, I did locate a wire that I removed from the earth, ran a wire to the rec/reg. Now all I have to work is out the wiring for the rec/reg.
 
Not sure what is happening now. Both front and rear LED's look to have blown. I have what looks to be right, the stator wired up but there maybe issues with how the rec/reg is wired. Without a diagram for these re/reg's it's a guessing game which looks to have cooked the LED's. The incandescent globe is working fine at full brightness. When I check the output of the rec/reg with the way I have it wired it reads 15/16V on DC ok but it also reads on AC at something like 35V. Prior to the rec/reg being fitted it would only read AC, naturally enough.

How I have it wired atm.

001.jpg
 
If all you did was add that extra wire to the reg I'm at a loss because it should work. I found I had my led blinkers wired backwards when I did my conversion but if your wiring was the same before then the extra wire doesn't change the polarity unless you had some ac going on before.

The meter might just read a/c if it's a cheap meter. Unless theres a battery to smooth it out you're still alternating from 12v to 0v instead of +12 to -12

Did you test the leds on a 12v car battery or something?

I really hope they haven't blown.
 
If you disconnect your globe and leds so they don't blow. Then hook up the meter and rev the bike. The voltage will increase by a large amount if the reg isn't working.
 
I can't for the life of me find the edit button. At idle I only get about 11 volts on my cheapo meter and ac at half that which makes sense. Sounds like maybe your regulator has given up.
 
Al, I hope you don't mind I'm going to butt into this thread since I have a question regarding this also. Spoonshark, I used a Radio Shack full wave bridge rectifier to convert from AC to DC. I didn't remove the earth from the stator. Instead on the rectifier, I hooked the yellow wire from the stator to the one AC pin and then the other ac pin to frame ground. I then ran the 12+ DC from the rectifier to the lights and the ground pin directly to the lights without connecting those grounds to the frame. Could this have burnt my stator out and cause a no spark issue?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top