• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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125-200cc 99 cr125 what to do first?

T

Talbotman

Husqvarna
So i just picked up a 99 cr125 from a buddy for $100. The reason it was $100 is that it is completely torn apart, all the way down to the frame stripped (i have everything). Here is where my reason for posting comes about, the motor needs going through and a few parts replacing, thinking about doing the 144 kit as i have read on this site (im very new to this site) but do not really know where to find parts to do the kit. I do not have a carb, what should i do as i have read the stock carbs are not much to be desired, so i cannot see myself spending money on something thats not worth it. Lastly, i have read multiple posts about upgrading the suspension, can you guys give me ideas on what should be done. I figured i would post this before i start rebuilding my bike so i know what to put on before i waste money on rebuilding junk stock parts. Thanks
 
I'll have a stock carb for ya, once my lectron arrives ...I also have a brand new pwk air striker for a 125 if you want. I would keep it a 125 and put my money into the bottom end. Freshen up the top and ride it.
 
As you got it for so cheap rebuild the crank, new rod kit and bearings / seals. Install a 165 kit up top. A fresh 165 will amaze you. You will still have less than a $100 in the bike and have a brand new 165 motor which is awesome. then get the suspension setup right for you. Should be a great bike, enjoy.
 
I have a 99 WR 125. The rear shock isn't much to be excited about. I had my man Corey at ProTuneSuspension set up a 2002 CR250 rear shock and a set of 99 CR250 forks, (same as both of our stockers but I had both in excellent cond) up for my skill and weight for GNCC. The suspension works as well as anything thing else out there IMO. The shock length was off but he got me close and I run the forks a bit deeper to off set the shorter shock. My EXC530/570 has a SXS shock and CC Husaberg forks. More adjustability but same result. He did a bunch to the forks to make them really work. If you want his info PM me or look for him on facebook.

For the engine, really be honest with yourself about how you ride. If you plan on lugging it around the 165 seems the way to go. I've ridden one, awesome bottom and mid but cuts off too soon for how I ride. If you are a top end guy, a port job and a 144 is great. We had a Eric Gorr ported 09 WR144 for top end and it just sang. Pump gas too.

I have ridden the Lectron, not impressed but I ride WFO. I won't feel the smoother transitions from idle to pilot to needle cause I'm never modulating there. On my 4t BB I feel those differences so I get it. If you are a gun & run 125er, I think the Mik carb is dandy as long as you aren't changing elevation a lot. I'm in NJ at a few hunny over sea level.
 
the 165 can and will rev hard and make gobs of top end power. Buddy Blakes prefers that type of power from his 165 so he runs the PC 200 pipe and lectron. Feels just like a 125 but stronger everywhere and way stronger on top. The cool thing about the 165 it the pipe will make it whatever you want. I run a doma off a ktm200 because like mid range. The 165, doma,reeds flipped for low end power and the Lectron make my motor way more bottom and huge mid than his but gives some away on top. Buddy Brandons is a high comp motor running race gas with FMF pipe and makes 250 like huge power, super fast. so the 165 kit can be whatever you like depending on your pipe and setup.
 
its already making way more by the time you are there plus you are pulling corner exits and jump faces much harder. I have ridden piles of them back to back. if that last 1500 rpm is more important than way more power that's fine with me. Like saying a 125 is faster than a 250 because it revs higher. To each his own and why this 125 platform is so fun.

Jake and I traded off last weekend, he has a 125 I have 165, he did not like mine and I did not like his, they were quite different, both fun and fast and we are almost exactly the same speed though the woods. Fun to easily build the type of power that works for you.
 
I would have to concur with Kelly on the 165 transformation. I am running the dinosaur Uptite 167 and can not believe the low and mid of that top end. It is exactly as he described his 165. I run a 13/52 combo and still rocket to 54mph. I have a 144 kit but could not imagine going down in displacement, but I am not moto. I love the power when climbing and I'm going with the Lectron this week. Cha ching Kelly!
 
Motosportz said:
its already making way more by the time you are there plus you are pulling corner exits and jump faces much harder. I have ridden piles of them back to back. if that last 1500 rpm is more important than way more power that's fine with me. Like saying a 125 is faster than a 250 because it revs higher. To each his own and why this 125 platform is so fun.

Jake and I traded off last weekend, he has a 125 I have 165, he did not like mine and I did not like his, they were quite different, both fun and fast and we are almost exactly the same speed though the woods. Fun to easily build the type of power that works for you.
Click to expand...


My buddies bike HAS the KTM 200 pipe and Lectron, it just dies on top.
 
Same here. HGS pipe and lectron carb. I tried the tmx carb as well. Experimented with gearing 13/46, 13/48, 13/50, 14/48. No luck for me. Just doesn't have the revs that I need. My buddy who is a beginner loves it on the mx track because most of the power that he uses is down low. This motor makes one heck of a woods bike though.
 
The 165 / Pro Circuit KTM 200 pipe makes a bunch of top end, ask Blake. It is a screamer. That pipe is shaped totally different than my KTM 200 Doma pipe which is all low/mid and does cut off early which is what works for me int he trees.
 
Not sure how many rpms some people need on the 165 as mine has plenty on top, During winter testing I was all over the low to mid pipes as they worked so well in the deep mud/snow ect and were so easy to get front wheel up if needed but then the sun finally showed itself and things dried out some and I then prefered the more higher reving type pipes.
Did 5 hours playing / working on getting a bit fitter last saturday with a few friends running a HGS and 38mm lectron, bike pulls a reasonable bottom mid that pulls my 225lbs around just fine and has a good long pull right to the upper rev range. personally I dont need any more power as the bike suits me fine and I aint getting any younger :D Swapping back to the 125 for a few laps was not a nice experience even though its a real nice example.
Dep pipe is the highest reving pipe I have used and even that produces a reasonable pull right from the bottom, So as Kelly said the pipe make all the difference on the 165 and also the gearing! its pointless running 125/144 gearing as you will not reap the true rewards of the 165s greatness.
View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pD0UnJP-fpE
 
johnnyboy said:
So as Kelly said the pipe make all the difference on the 165 and also the gearing! its pointless running 125/144 gearing as you will not reap the true rewards of the 165s greatness.
Click to expand...

Yeah 125 gearing feels ridiculously low on a 165 as it pulls so much harder. I went up to 13/48 and it would still pull our huge slow technical hills no problem in fact better because now you have more use of each gear.
 
And through all this discussion if you love your 125 or 144 and like how it revs and makes power by all means keep it that way. The 165 is for sure not for everyone. Jake and I traded off the other day, he loves his 125 and I love my 165 and we both liked each others bikes OK but greatly prefered our own. Ride what you like. :thumbsup:
 
Agreed, and I can see, and hear from the vid above, that the 165 pulls great from low to mid, no doubt there. I'd probably have one just for tight woods if I went back to multiple dirt bikes. I'm at a point where I have 2, a WR125 as a back up/scrambles/play bike and my BB EXC 610 KTM do it all MX to woods bike.

That extra 1000-1500 RPMs mean everything when you are launching off a big jump out of a corner! My seat of the pants estimates are my buddies 165 peaks far lower, and falls off even sooner than that. He has pretty steep gearing on it too, 13/48??? Right where it feels like it should rip it is finished. Hey, maybe the open can will wake it up. It sure sounds like the bike is extremely sensitive to exhaust changes.
 
johnnyboy said:
Not sure how many rpms some people need on the 165 as mine has plenty on top, During winter testing I was all over the low to mid pipes as they worked so well in the deep mud/snow ect and were so easy to get front wheel up if needed but then the sun finally showed itself and things dried out some and I then prefered the more higher reving type pipes.
Did 5 hours playing / working on getting a bit fitter last saturday with a few friends running a HGS and 38mm lectron, bike pulls a reasonable bottom mid that pulls my 225lbs around just fine and has a good long pull right to the upper rev range. personally I dont need any more power as the bike suits me fine and I aint getting any younger :D Swapping back to the 125 for a few laps was not a nice experience even though its a real nice example.
Dep pipe is the highest reving pipe I have used and even that produces a reasonable pull right from the bottom, So as Kelly said the pipe make all the difference on the 165 and also the gearing! its pointless running 125/144 gearing as you will not reap the true rewards of the 165s greatness.
Click to expand...

Power delivery in this video seems good to me - sounds like it will rev well when asked
Love the english countryside!
If you want to sell the dep pipe let me know please. Is a dep 200 pipe?
It s interesting some say the 165 is easier to ride but if you like to really fang it It's harder to keep on top of it due to extra power down low to mid
So as walt has said to me the challenge will be bringing my level up to being able to use all of its potential
 
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