950 hr case splittiing

[ray_ray]

awesome!

Yep and I can tell after the first ride my bike was down a ~couple horses with all those hrs on the engine ...

 

[Xcuvator]

Glad you got it going. I have a hard time parting with something I have done alot of work on.

 

[ray_ray]

As much better as it is running now, I'll replace these parts no later than ~500 hrs in the future (I hope) ...

And after getting this splitting under my belt ... Next time will be much easier ... I'll have this bike a very long time ....

I'm thinking maybe > 500 & < 600 hrs , somewhere, will be my next limit between rings ( maybe piston) changes ...

 

[ray_ray]

I'd mic that cyl. to see what's what before anything is done with it. Check for taper, ovalness etc & see what stock specs and wear specs are..... The piston is definitely worn as your wear marks on the skirt are waaay bigger than mine were on my ~325-ish hour inspection on my TE 250 last year. There is a wear spec for it in the manual IIRC...
Put the old comp ring in the barrel, about 1" from the top, squared up, and check the end gap, just for fun........

May as well split the crank and do a full inspect of the rod/crank. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the metal particles are from the rod big end.......They've been known to do that

Since you got it apart, you may as well replace everything, including the mains, especially with the hours it has on it.

I didn't check the specs on the cylinder today but I did get it checked for ovalness in the bore and it was ok ... I'm having it honed out and I'll see what it looks like \ specs out to, after this work ...

 

[ray_ray]

I found a machine shop that looks very modern with modern, new machining machines

Pics of the cylinder after honing (500P = 11$) ... Looks good to me ... The guy doing honing said that the cylinder was very hard metal ....

 

[Slowpoke]

These cylinders are Nikasil plated. From what I understand, they require a diamond hone, or something like that.....

 

[ray_ray]

These cylinders are Nikasil plated. From what I understand, they require a diamond hone, or something like that.....

Interesting ... News to me but apparently this is where re-plating comes into play ...
Maybe I'll go back and find out what these guys know about this material ...

Here's a few words I found on the subject ..

How do you know when your cylinder needs to be re-Nikasiled? Some times its not that easy to tell, but usually you can tell by looking at the cylinder walls.
If you can see scratches or chips that's a sure indication that it's time to have your cylinder re-plated. If you can't see any wear or damage that doesn't necessarily
mean your cylinder is in good condition. The inside of the cylinder has to be exactly round ( with-in specs) to perform properly.This can only be accurately checked
with a dial bore gauge, it can measure to with-in one ten thousandths of an inch. The Nikasil plating that's on the walls of your cylinder is only a few
thousandths of an inch thick but it is very hard. It wears extremely well as long as everything is tight and sanitary. If you maintain your engine as the factory
recommends it will last for years. However we all know how easy it is to suck it full of water or dirt or maybe run it low on oil or some other mistake. The Nikasil plating,
or coating as its sometimes refereed to, will have to be stripped and the cylinder re-plated.


We can repair any Nikasil cylinder or Chrome plated cylinder. Even extremely
damaged ones. The Nikasil will be repaired by stripping all the old plating and inspecting the casting for flaws that require welding or possibly skim boring.It is then plated and diamond honed to original size and fitted to a new piston. Our years of experience with cylinder rebuilding assures you that you'll have the finest repair, better than NEW.

 

[ray_ray]

This is all interesting to me ... Because I have another crap bike (non-Husky) that this same place just built a sleeve for ...

The web site I found on the Nikasil plating refers also to sleeving a cylinder ... Makes me wonder if this 250cc cylinder can be sleeved to accept a 310cc piston ....

Per web site..

Sleeving is still the most reliable and most economical method of repairing damaged and worn out cylinders.
Don't want loose your terrific porting and to say the least expensive porting? When your cylinder is damaged
or worn beyond simple boring and honing Kustom Kraft Performance can expertly install a new hardened,
long lasting, and boreable alloy steel sleeve. Your cylinder casting is precision machined to accept our cool
running polished sleeve. In the case of 2 stroke cylinders your cylinder will be blue print ported to assure no
loss in power from misaligned or mismatched ports. In fact most of our customers report an increase in performance. Your
cylinder is then final bored and honed to recommended clearances and all ports are
chamfered. Head gasket surfaces are machined flat and smooth for a perfect seal.
When the big plating companies can't re-plate a cylinder they send it to us to install a sleeve.

 

[Slowpoke]

I could be wrong, but I don't think the 250 cylinder can be bored to accept a 310 piston. The 310 cylinder appears to me to be a larger casting.

 

[ray_ray]

I could be wrong, but I don't think the 250 cylinder can be bored to accept a 310 piston. The 310 cylinder appears to me to be a larger casting.

...

In any event, maybe a toasted cylinder can be saved by re-sleeving back to a 250cc..

 

[R_Little]

The bore them out and then re-chrome them...unless there is major damamge they can fix it.

I had a WR250 works cylinder with 2 nice cracks welded then bored plated and honed....good as new!