• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

950 hr case splittiing

There is a small plate on the right side of the transmission, in behind the clutch, that is part of the shifter mechanism. It has been known to gall. Possibly a bit of metal has come from there. There should be an old thread on this here or on TT somewhere.
Sometimes hardened steel such as ball bearings will calve off tiny flakes......Maybe that's a source?
I'd just replace the bearings regardless, even if they seem fine. Buy ones known to be good(ie. not chinese)
 
Slowpoke said:
There is a small plate on the right side of the transmission, in behind the clutch, that is part of the shifter mechanism. It has been known to gall. Possibly a bit of metal has come from there. There should be an old thread on this here or on TT somewhere.
Sometimes hardened steel such as ball bearings will calve off tiny flakes......Maybe that's a source?
I'd just replace the bearings regardless, even if they seem fine. Buy ones known to be good(ie. not chinese)
Click to expand...

I've been looking at all parts for scarring ...

Do the mains need to be pressed out or can they be driven out wiith a hammer?
 
ray_ray said:
I've been looking at all parts for scarring ...

Do the mains need to be pressed out or can they be driven out wiith a hammer?
Click to expand...

I think pressing them out is safer than hammering and rocking the bearing risking scuffing / marring the housing. I used a simple arbor press and put the cases on a couple of 2x4 blocks to support it. They aren't all that tight but a straight push smooths the job. As for installing, put the case halves in the oven at 220'F for about an hour and the bearings in the freezer over night and they drop right in.
 
ray_ray said:
I've been looking at all parts for scarring ...

Do the mains need to be pressed out or can they be driven out wiith a hammer?
Click to expand...

When I tore apart one of my motors I used the heat the case halves up as descibed by Planepower and then tapped the bearings out of the case half. If you only put the case halves in the oven for a short time the aluminum of the case half will heat up and expand before the steel of the bearing does so they should come out fairly easily.

Joel
 
Thanks for all the advice so far ... & got the crank split today

The only time I abused my bike on the fatal ride was 1 ~two mile spurt at ~110 CLKS racing a street bike ... If I did not toast my engine there, I'm clueless as to why my beast needed to be parked ...

The issue:

100_6088.JPG100_6089.JPG100_6090.JPG
 
So, big end rod bearing was the culprit? I have a SM510 motor in my garage that I'm pretty certain has the same problem. I just need to work through my list of other projects so I can do the same thing you are to mine. Glad you figured it out!
 
tls25rs said:
So, big end rod bearing was the culprit? I have a SM510 motor in my garage that I'm pretty certain has the same problem. I just need to work through my list of other projects so I can do the same thing you are to mine. Glad you figured it out!
Click to expand...

The pin is all scared ... Bearing looked ok but I'll look closer at it later ... Probably slack in the bearing but the cage looks ok

No outward signs of any issues on mine when riding... Just metal shavings on the oil drain plug and in the oil filter ... very shiny stuff in the filter..

Get the repair PDF file and just start a slow tear-down... You'll need a fly-puller and a generic gear puller and a torque wrench for re-assembly ... Everything else needed is pretty standard ...

100_6094.JPG


100_6095.JPG
 
Well it isn't pretty, but at least the mystery is over. With the hours you got from it. I don't think you can complain...
 
Used wrist pin bushing... NOT included in PRO-X rod because...
100_6092.JPG

PRO-X has no bushing ....
100_6026.JPG


Used connecting rod big end100_6096.JPG100_6097.JPG
 
Xcuvator said:
Well it isn't pretty, but at least the mystery is over. With the hours you got from it. I don't think you can complain...
Click to expand...

No complaints but I was expecting more ...This is a husky ...

If I get back running here, the cost has been small really ... OEM mains are expensive but the FAG bearings are much less ... Rod kit was not too bad ...141 USD... Only 2 additional tools needed ....
 
I am happy to see you caught this before it was too late. Some dont have the eye and don't get so lucky. If the $ allows, I would replace the parts with new. The 310 kit is what I would install at reassembly. The '08 TE 250 here is a hoot! with the 310 kit from Kelly and Co.
 
XLEnduroMan said:
I am happy to see you caught this before it was too late. Some dont have the eye and don't get so lucky. If the $ allows, I would replace the parts with new. The 310 kit is what I would install at reassembly. The '08 TE 250 here is a hoot! with the 310 kit from Kelly and Co.
Click to expand...

Viewing the drain plug and oil filter are the ticket and inner view of the engine ... I'm gonna try to check the oil filter between oil changes for metal shavings in an effort to see any bad happenings in the engine ...

A 310 kit sounds good but not yet ... I got this cyl, piston&rings at a very good price and need to ride it out ... But next time maybe ... 500 or so engine hrs from now ....
 
Where did you pick up your FAG bearings? I'm going to need new mains for my 510 and as you mentioned the OEM are very expensive. Also wish someone made a rod kit for the 510. Last I looked the OEM was the only option and again pricey.

Oh yeah, I've had a couple of 510 motors apart all the way to splitting the cases so it is pretty straight forward now. Only need to refer to the pdf here and there for torque values etc. when reassembling. Roadracing these bikes is not kind to these motors :( It becomes an expensive hobby very quickly.

Hope you get your bike back together soon and get out there riding again. It will be a while before I get the time I need to go through my 510. It's ok though I know it is there waiting for me when I get the time.

Joel
 
There is a dedicated FAG bearing store here in Cebu city ...

This was 1st attempt at splitting cases ... Not too bad on my part with the repair manual and you guys as help ... I had a friend come over and help with the re-assembly ...Maybe tomorrow I can fire it up ...

tls25rs said:
Where did you pick up your FAG bearings? I'm going to need new mains for my 510 and as you mentioned the OEM are very expensive. Also wish someone made a rod kit for the 510. Last I looked the OEM was the only option and again pricey.

Oh yeah, I've had a couple of 510 motors apart all the way to splitting the cases so it is pretty straight forward now. Only need to refer to the pdf here and there for torque values etc. when reassembling. Roadracing these bikes is not kind to these motors :( It becomes an expensive hobby very quickly.

Hope you get your bike back together soon and get out there riding again. It will be a while before I get the time I need to go through my 510. It's ok though I know it is there waiting for me when I get the time.

Joel
Click to expand...
 
JPinNC said:
Good job, thanks for sharing the pics. Wish you luck on the start-up.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the luck ... I read your words and went out and started kicking my bike over ...

Took a few extra kicks but it started .... I'm ecstatic :) ... and thanks again for all the help ...
 
Very common for the big end bearing. I had the same thing and even with the used crank I bought and rebuilt it looked similar. Nature of the beast. I'm sure that's why the manual states crank and con rod rebuild at the stated interval. I'm running an hour meter on my race bike and at 60 hrs she's coming apart, hopefully not before that.

edit Wow, just looked im my owners manual;
For competition engines replace conrod assembly every 15hrs! (SMR):eek:
For limited power engine (TE/ SMR): 10,000km
For dirt models MX @ 40hrs, Enduro @ 80 hrs.
Guess SMR racing is hard on internal components. I better set the hour meter to 20Hrs as i have 12 hrs on it already. :thumbsdown:
 
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