• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

88 WR clutch slipping

RTM

RTM

Husqvarna
B Class
My 88 WR250 has an annoying habit causing the clutch to slip. The lever actuator down on the engine does not fully return as it sticks on the final few degree’s causing the clutch to slip. I have been over coming this by simply flicking the clutch lever but it’s a pain in the backside in tight woods. The cable etc is new and free etc it’s the arm that sticks. Obviously I will pull the actuator and arm and check everything but is there supposed to be a ball bearing between the cam and the push rod? There operating manual does not show one – so I didn’t fit one but I have wondered if there should be one.

Oh the clutch basket is steel & is perfect. no ridges at all.
 
No ball bearing. Check the adjustment of the push rod. Make sure it is allowing the clutch pack to fully engage. Also check the actuator is free to rotate in the housing and isn't catching. Check the flat surface isn't damaged and causing the push rod to hang up.
 
youmay need to resurface the actuator as it can wear a hole in it and catch when you adjust the clutch. also check the bottom bearing surface can get rusty and poohie, clean it up real good.
 
Most of the Evo bikes use a different style of actuator that has a cam profile on it. The end of the pushrod should be flat with a small radius of 0.5mm (or .020'' old money). This is unlike the older bikes that came with a more 'pointy' radiussed pushrod and a flat cam face (we upgrade to the later type - always). Both of these items are in stock.

Also, be sure to have about 6 - 7 mm of free play on the end of the arm before you attach the cable. This is to allow for the plates to wear down (thus reducing this free play) Also, Check out the stack height of the plate set and make sure that it is at least 2mm more than the distance between the pressure plate and the clutch hub - when held together...

We are working on 6 spring plate set supply...

Andy.
 
Having now pulled the actuator out of its hole and peering down to see the end of the push rod. I can clearly see that the rod is touching the case – its bottomed out ! So its possibly the clutch plates that have worn beyond their working allowance or the m6 adjuster screw needs to be set up properly.
 
put it back together and pull the clutch cover...don't forget that the gear lever and kick starter come off with the clutchcover, don't take then off their shafts!
 
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