• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

87 510 cam chain ?s

86 400 XC

86 400 XC

Husqvarna
Pro Class
My chain seems to be a little stretched. when i had the the clutch cover off.
Also the chain hits the oil screen, so it must be done.
Ready to buy 1 from HVA. but
My queston is, do i have to change sprockets too or a just a chain?
Also trying to get some decompression parts for the bike.
It has all been taking off before i got it. Should get the parts that work off kicker or set up a lever on the bars?

thanks
 
The decompression cable by the kick start wore out/broke. I gave it to a shop to make another one but they never did, I have only had the one on the bar for a long time.

I have changed the cam chain a few times, the last time I suspected the genuine part from Hall's was not that great and got a 10 foot piece in a box from a bearing distributor. I think it was Tsubaki. The box only comes with one master link. The aluminum sprocket on the cam looks fine. I do not know how the surface that the adjuster forces against the chain is, that may be the problem though it hasn't needed replacement since the last time. I moved the license plate onto something else so it isn't entered in events any more. I got a used screen thing but never installed it. I would expect the sprocket on the crank to be steel.
 
I simply buy a good quality chain from an engineering supplier and you have enough for several cam chains. I use Black Diamond brand - a UK manufactured chain. You can buy it in 10 ft lengths. Part No D-06B -1-R . You simply use a small chain breaker to get the length you need (or a grinder to remove the pins). You will get 2 chains - possibly 3 from a 10 ft roll.

The sprockets should be OK as they spend there life well lubricated. I have replaced cam chains but never a sprocket ..... yet. Make sue you fit the join link the right way. Refer to the manual.

One my 87 model the kick start operation works well but is not really essential. The hand lever will work fine.

However on my aircooled model the kick start operation was actually a problem as it allowed you to kick it with the piston at any place in the stroke. The bike was hard to start. Once I ditched the kicker device and simply used the hand operated release it forced me to have the piston in the correct spot ( just past the compression) and it starts much easier.

I do note that the 87 model has a better gear ratio on the kick start mechanism and you get more crank rotation per kick than the earlier models.
 
I agree with all of the aforementioned comments. You should not have to change the sprockets unless they are very worn and starting to hook. FYI; the service limit on the cam chain is 773.5 mm measured between the centers of the holes for the masterlink with the chain laid out flat. Also inspect the chain tensioner for wear where the chain rubs up against it, it should not be down to bare metal.

As to the compression release, I did away with the kick start actuated apparatus years ago and only use the lever on the bars. It works just fine to roll the engine over to prime it for cold starting and to find TDC.

For what it's worth I suggest you give George at Up-Tite in Santa Ana, CA a call and pick his brain about your newly aquired 510. His phone # is 714-540-2920. In my opinion he is THE go-to guy for Sweede thumpers. Perhaps he could shed some light on your overheating, starting and stalling issues...
 
So i pulled some parts off and the chain is out and its over the max size.
Tensioner pad and sprockets looks fine still.
I think i should pull the head off and change the head gasket and take the cylinder off to clean and inspect the water jackets around the piston.
Can the water jackets trap sludge or dirt and reduce cooling? in the pics of the repair manual it looks possible.
To time it now again i have a question
I can tell where the cam needs to be for the chain, lobes to sides and sprocket bolts level with head right?
Piston TDC with allen wrench in plug hole for indicator, but how to time the ignition or does it make spark on every TDC not every 2nd time around?

Thanks
 
To set timing you will need to use a rev counter,(tach) and a timing light. If you have the Husky workshop manual,(part # 15 17 544-01) this procedure is spelled out in detail on page 20.

Removing the cylinder and head to check the water jackets for possible blockage sounds like a good move considering the goofy water hose set up on the bike when you got it. Who knows what could have gotten in there... Also check the radiators for any build up or blockage...
 
well here is some updates, thanks for the help guys!

Chain is at 776mm so a little over.
cylinder was clean and not too much corrossion. Head and base gasket had silicone all over it so it was reused i assume. Maybe it had comperssion pushing past the head gasket and into the cooling system under hard throttle and would cause the coolant to piss out like it was over heating.

I think the piston may be bad, never seen play like this before on any piston.

View: https://youtu.be/B81mLuWSoEA
 
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So what does a guy do for a piston with this nikasil coating?
Get a standard size? my cylinder wall is in nice condition.
Do i find a shop for a quick hone for the new rings or not?

thanks
 
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:eek::eek:!!!
Next step should have been like that...
 

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Every water cooled 430 that was not an automatic that I remember taking apart has had the wristpin hole oblonged like shown in post #10. Probably not as extreme. There is even a spot in the piston for the clip should one choose to put in the earlier longer pin. They are/were competition machines for the original owner to go out and chase trophies. I remember the dealer at the time not too happy with the four stroke purchasers riding them in similar manner to the two cycle bikes.
 
You are certainly going to need a piston and a I'd replace the gudgeon pin just coz.
Good find, I've never seen one that bad either.
 
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