• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

86 wr 250 wiring and carb questions

C

cbyrne131

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello,

I need to figure out why there are just 2 wires hanging out of the magneto harness just chillin.
I tried to search but can't find anything related to what's coming out of the magneto. So the Green and white wires are what's confusing me.
blue and black go to the coil the yellow goes to lighting, those seem normal. They kill switch has a 2 wire setup, I'm pretty sure the blue is supposed to go to it right?

What really makes me mad is that local laws have changed, I picked it up since I could go on trails with the thing for fun, but law states that they have to be licensed to go on trails yet you can have just an orv sticker and ride on the shoulder. (used to be the other way around) So I'm in the process of trying to make it street legal. Im not looking forward to getting a title issued... I plan to run the lights, horn, and trailtech speedo off a battery and have the magneto lighting coil just as a back up via switch to the lights in case the battery dies (don't ever plan to ride this at night). So thoughts on how to hook up a rear brake light switch?

Carb, is there any tuning advice besides air/ratio needle 1.5 turns out? the few times I was able to get it running it, had to be >80ºF out and required full choke and 1/8th throttle to stay running. Although when I rolled it down the street I did a surprise wheelie in 3rd) I have spend hours cleaning and adjusting it reading about it online. Also, I have cleaned the float slider rods very well, but it does this cute thing and leaks gas out the over flows for about 4 seconds after turning the gas on. Thoughts? There is a dyno place near buy that says they will tune and jet it for about $320 out the door, but I don't want to spend anything more on this (poor college student) Also, I'm not even sure how much life this engine has. Seems to have good compression but that's all I can tell you.

Side note question, how easy is it to straighten out a spoked rim on one of these?

Thanks for any input!

DSCN0229.JPGDSCN0230.JPGDSCN0231.JPGDSCN0232.JPG
(poor quality pics to illustrate what I was trying to say, mag is a motoplat mini6? stock part I assume? If you look closely you can see some Home made motor mounts)
 
You only need the black wire hooked up to run. You may need to clean dried premix residue out of the carb jets before worrying about tuning. Setting the float height and making sure float valve is not gummed stuck should take care of the overflow issue. As far as the rim you can straighten it by hitting the rim on top of the dent to force it back round with a hard plastic mallet like a deadblow. The Mini 6 Motoplat peak wattage is 45 watts and yes, OEM for that bike. You would do best by utilizing LED lighting to lighten the draw and use the yellow wire to charge the battery. You should have a regulator mounted near the coil, utilize it to regulate voltage to the battery.

If you look in the Vintage Tech you will find Husky Club newsletters in PDF format . One of them has the European WR wiring diagram which is best for what you are trying to accomplish
 
The blue wire goes to the kill switch. There is a coiled wire (spring) under the rubber and pushing on it connects the blue to the handlebar and hence ground. Any second wire would just be to make a more certain ground connection. The yellow is your alternator output, It might branch off a bit. not sure why magneto isn't commonly used for the motoplat maybe it is a magneto by some definition. I don't know about green or white the wires generally have plugs on them and it is pretty easy.

The needle and seat for the float valve get changed to cure what I think you dscribe. An in line filter should be in the gasoline line. I am not a 250 expert but what I see is a long neck carburetor I associate with the airbox of the dual shock bikes. I am not a tuning expert but to give advice with out you looking at the needle valve, needle, slide, idle jet and main jet to compare with origional would be kind of silly if the carb came off something else.
 
check the needle and seat. then lower the float a bit et a time untill it stops piddling out
 
Thank you guys, I will try to pull the carb out tonight.

Fran...k. Is there any markings that I should look for on the carb to determine if it's different or not?

Also, Any suggestions on replacement fork bleeders?
 
Hey, is the fuel float valve supposed to go down this far? I thought just the valve spring bumper was supposed to move up and down. carbq.JPG
 
Look in the 1987 owners manual you can find it here in Vintage Tech Section it tells you exactly how to adjucst the float level. Yes the lever will fall that far down. You check the float level with the carb turned upside down.The book expains the whole carb very well and has pics.
 
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