• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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86 Husky 400 WR Brake Bleed Question.

photoguy_43420

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi,

I just got back my master cylinder from a dealer who rebuilt it. I tried to bleed it today with no luck. When I open the bleeder I do have some fulid come out. No pressure though. I put a clear line on the bleeder with it open and I don't get any fluid that comes through. I do see air bubbles in the master cylinder when I pump it. I have probably pump it 100 times. Any tips on this?
 
make sure there is no loop in the line
by this I mean a place air can get stuck from a high place in the line
remove the master if you have to and elevate it
do a gravity bleed, if you have any pressure on the lever, squeeze it and crack the line at the master tighten it and see if it's better
if you have bubbles in the master it's your bypass not working correctly as I recall
on my KTM had that problem, removed the brake line and put my finger over the outlet to be sure I had pressure
 
and second question round or rectangular reservoir?
early like an 85-86 style or later like 87-88 type?
 
I believe on two occasions I have resorted to removing the caliper and routing the line so it could be hung higher than the master cylinder. Wedge something between the pads and bleed it in that position.
 
I can't answer if there is something wrong with your master cyl. from your description,
but I can give a friendly tip to use a Mityvac handpump for bleeding brakes. I got the cheapest one in plastic and it works great.

WzIas.jpg
 
Have you tried strapping the lever back to the handlebar with a zip tie or bungee cord?
This has worked for me many times if left overnight as long as the hose never gets higher than the master cylinder.
 
I can't answer if there is something wrong with your master cyl. from your description,
but I can give a friendly tip to use a Mityvac handpump for bleeding brakes. I got the cheapest one in plastic and it works great.

WzIas.jpg
I have one from the 80's when they were made of aluminum. I made the mistake of loaning it to a friend and not checking it out when he returned it. A seal blew up from him drawing hydraulic fluid thru the pump. So when I needed it 10 plus years later, I had to buy the plastic unit that will not fit in the case for the original.
 
I have one from the 80's when they were made of aluminum. I made the mistake of loaning it to a friend and not checking it out when he returned it. A seal blew up from him drawing hydraulic fluid thru the pump. So when I needed it 10 plus years later, I had to buy the plastic unit that will not fit in the case for the original.

remember, no good deed goes unpunished
 
When I had that problem on my 430 I seem to remember I forced the fluid up from the bleed nipple up into the reservoir using a syringe. It still goes slack if not ridden for a couple of months so I tend to leave the lever bungied back to the bars!
 
another vote for the mityvac...quick and easy work for any bleeding.

I have one from the 80's when they were made of aluminum. I made the mistake of loaning it to a friend and not checking it out when he returned it. A seal blew up from him drawing hydraulic fluid thru the pump. So when I needed it 10 plus years later, I had to buy the plastic unit that will not fit in the case for the original.

yyou probably have the zinc silverline 4000 like i do with the finger grooves on the handle. you can still rebuild these.
they can still be bought in metal..

heres the newer zinc version
10_MV8510.jpg
 
I have installed new or rebuilt master cylinder in automobile type stuff and the instructions are to bleed (pump, circulate) it back into the reservoir first, then attach it in a permanent fashion.

Brake fluid should be changed, not that I do it right, that plastic one looks more useful for changing fluid in things. Larger volume pump.
 
When I checked on the rebuild parts, they were more expensive than the plastic version I picked up. I will rebuild the original as it is still dear to me. At least I have something that works but I always prefer the way older tools were made
 
Easiest way is to open the bleed screw, with a tube attached into a bottle on the ground, just keep pouring fluid into master.
You'll need a decent amount of fluid, then tighten the bleeder screw, leave the master cover off the whole time. Now still leaving
the master cover off, pump the brake lever real easy, you should see air bubbles rise to the top of in the master. Let the bike sit for
a bit, the bubbles should still rise to the top & out , cause air is lighter then the fluid, and will work 99% of it's way out.
 
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