• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

'83 XC500 won't select gear after clutch cover removed and refitted

White Husky

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello all

I took off my clutch cover to replace the O rings on the gear shaft (the shaft sticking through the clutch cover that the gear lever attaches to).

On replacing the clutch cover, I carefully aligned and located the indented slot in the shaft with the raised profile in the gear 'kicker' (that's what the parts manual calls it). Fiddled around for a while to figure out how to locate the kickstart shaft onto its gear. All went back fine, but now the bike (which was in neutral) will not select a gear. I have tried spinning the back wheel, and have had the clutch case off again to move the kicker manually.

I haven't refilled with oil yet, but I can't see that that could be preventing the bike from selecting a gear.

Has anyone experienced this issue when removing and refitting the clutch case?

Thanks
Lucien
 
Lucien,
Are you sure you lined up the gear shifter with it mating part (16 11 686-01) called the kicker, or possible
that what's broken. Mine broke on my 430, lucky Husky used these in alot of bikes all the up in the the mid
90's and i was able to get a brand new one.
Husky John
 
Hi John, yes. I also pulled off the clutch cover again and directly rocked the kicker with a pair of pliers. I have full movement of the kicker, but it's as though the other end of it (that 'claw' shaped bit) is not grabbing whatever it's supposed to grab.

I guess I'll have to pull off the clutch and have a look. Doesn't make any sense to me as gearbox was all fine when I took off the clutch cover, and nothing in the process of removing the clutch cover (as far as I know) should mess with it.

Any how the clutch plates have very little movement (and a bit one sided) so probably need some adjustment, so it's probably just as well that I pull it all apart and (break it) adjust the clutch.

Do you use loctite on those 5 clutch spring tension screws?

Kind regards
Lucien
 
There is a torque setting for the screws in the 2T manual, no loctite. Sounds odd, I always work on that the problem must be something I have done so reverse everything I did and look real close...
 
Lucien,
your Kicker (16 11 686-01) maybe have broke, mine was just spinning, as the spot weld broke, i couldn't see it til i removed it. No loctite on the clutch, & u may want to check out the "c" clip that keep the clutch basket in place too, mine was fitting on loosely.
Husky John
 
I took off the clutch and had a look behind at the series of links and levers that transmit from the gear lever to the selector drum. All new to me.

Here's what's behind the clutch:
IMG_1341.JPG

I assume most people know their way around inside the clutch cover, but for those (like me) who don't:

The slotted disk top right of the photo is what the gear shaft attaches to, which move the "kicker" left and right across the bottom of the case. Those pegs on the kicker move that wheel thing (not sure what the proper name is, it's the circle with the nut on it) in the middle of the photo which changes up or down the gears depending which way it is spun.

The "hook link" on top of the wheel (thing) drops into slots as the wheel rotates (it's a bit like a water wheel) to ensure that one click of the gear lever is one gear change up or down of gear.

My hook link was stuck on the top of the wheel and movement of the kicker was not changing the gears. I don't know why.
IMG_1342.JPG

I moved that 'water wheel' with a spanner on it's nut. The Hook Link dropped back into place

IMG_1343.JPG

and then it all seemed to work fine.

I have subsequently read that you should always keep the bike in gear when doing anything that affects the gearbox. Mine was in neutral, so I don't know if that had anything to do with it.

Any way, for now it seems to be working fine again.

Cheers
Lucien
 
Lucien,
Just double check to make sure the hook link (engaging arm) is NOT worn on the inside, outside look good from picture..
Put the side cover back on with all the bolts snug & try the shifter, you may be fine.
Husky John
 
White Husky,

Looks like you have sorted it. I have spent the last week or so (for various reasons) putting my gearbox and engine back together. I was going to suggest checking that the pin that is in the primary case locates properly in the in the spring tangs. This pin applies tension to the gear selector when you shift. I changed my primary cover and forgot to put it in. The selection of gears was very difficult without that in place.
 
Hi Bengt

Well, that's food for thought.

I think you're asking me if I ensured this pin:
Img_1349_small.jpg

was lined up so that it went in between these spring tangs when I put the clutch cover back on.

Img_1341_small.jpg

Having looked at the alignment of that pin, I see now that that is its purpose. I didn't check where it aligned when I put the case back together :(

I suppose it's 50/50 whether it is in between the two tangs or to one side. Presumably there would be no "spring" feel to the gear lever if I got it wrong? Is that the only way to tell?

Kind regards
Lucien
 
Hi Bengt

Well, that's food for thought.

I think you're asking me if I ensured this pin:
View attachment 16042

was lined up so that it went in between these spring tangs when I put the clutch cover back on.

View attachment 16041

Having looked at the alignment of that pin, I see now that that is its purpose. I didn't check where it aligned when I put the case back together :(

I suppose it's 50/50 whether it is in between the two tangs or to one side. Presumably there would be no "spring" feel to the gear lever if I got it wrong? Is that the only way to tell?

Kind regards
Lucien
Yep
 
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