• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

81 cr430 clutch questions

ct cr430

ct cr430

Husqvarna
AA Class
I've been doing some searches here on this clutch today as I'm thinking about replacing the aluminum plates with steel plates . I've read that the steel plates will not dirty the oil as fast as aluminum and some have said it helps in finding neutral . I know I can change the trans oil quite a few times for the price of new steel plates , which is still a good idea regardless of aluminum or steel but does anyone have any negatives to say about changing to steel plates ? And are the steel plates the same thickness as the aluminum plates ? The steels I'm sure must be slightly heavier , can you feel the difference if any ? Also is there a difference in the feel of the clutch ?
 
Same as justintendo. I ran alloy plates for years. Always had issues finding neutral when hot and a bit of slippage on the odd occasion. Changed to steel plates about 10 years ago. I can always find neutral, no slippage of any sort. No difference that I noticed with the extra weight, and the clutch pull is the same.
 
I haven't been on steel plates for all that long, but once I realized that some of the things I had learned to accept from the aluminum plates could be overcome by switching, it was a no-brainer.
With aluminum plates neutral can be hard to find, and sometimes, even with the clutch lever fully depressed, power would transfer through the clutch to the back tire (particularly first ride after the bike sitting for a while). I used to keep a strap around the clutch lever when the bike was parked to prevent it from lurching the first time I put it into gear after starting it.

As far as thickness goes, I bought a complete clutch pack (fiber and steel plates). I have no idea if the plates were the same thickness as factory, my old plates were quite worn.
 
How about letting the clutch out , any difference ? Any more wear on clutch ? How about stiffer springs , any recommendations ?
 
Again, I don't have a lot of bike-specific experience with the difference between steel and aluminum, but I would go from my Husky with Aluminum clutch plates to other old bikes with steel clutch plates and back for years without any difference in what I expected from the clutch lever. Really only difference in ride when moving from another bike with a steel clutch to my husky with aluminum is that the husky has the power of 10,000 angry demons pushing the back wheel (and the behaviors I note above), while my other old bikes just have a few tired horses. Never had to replace the springs (probably about due on one or two of my bikes), haven't worn out enough clutches to feel like wear rate is a big cost/concern in my book. Granted I'm not a racer, more of a weekend warrior, usually on terrain where I don't ride the clutch.

Clutch cover gaskets aren't that expensive. If you have wear life left in your current aluminum plates, ride 'em. After a couple months, pick up a steel pack and clutch cover gasket, change your oil and clutch, ride a couple months, make your decision then.
 
I've steel plates on my 83 WR totally rebuilt. The declutching shaft is new too. The felling is perfect, more efficient than a lot of hydraulic systems
but you'd find the same thing with alumium plates.
 
I still have the alooominum plates in and the as well as the fibres are worn. the clutch needs a reco but its good to use I don't want to risk loosing a wimpy lever action (its better than a hydro atmo) to change to steel plates and new springs and fibes cos im sure it will need the hand of thor to pull that lever in once I mess with it.

same as the engine...comp is low but I only wave my foot at the lever and it fires up. I know if I freshen it up, starting will become a battle of wills...will it go...or will it kick my ass
 
"im sure it will need the hand of thor to pull that lever in once I mess with it."
My Guzzi has a hand of the gods pull, nothing I've ever ridden comes close, well perhaps an '82 KDX400. A Husky clutch is like squeezing warm butter in comparison.
To the point of the thread, I know Barnett has steel plates. What other vendors might be available?
 
I have two newer engines with the extra clutch plates. I have the clutch covers too. I may use them in my two 430 builds with Barnett clutches. Who else offers clutches for left kickers?

The most important thing in the husky clutches is the play in the center release rod adjustment. Most of the clutches slippage comes from this rod adjusted wrong.
 
I always preferred the Steel clutch plates over the Aluminum one as they don't warp as easily... Husky John
 
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