• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

'77CR250 racer resto

H

Houredout401

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have been off the site for 3 years. Back then, I was trying to restore a '77CR250 to original condition. I collected a lot of info and parts but it sat for almost three years while I restored a few other bikes in the meantime. Now I want to refocus on the Husky but want to do a racer resto. Im tired of obsessing about the correct nut and washers, and want this one to actually ride in our local vintage scrambles. So looking for some wisdom on the following:

-What Ohlins set up would you go with out back? I think the '77 frame allowed for a 15 or 15.5 inch eye to eye shock on that frame?

-Steering bearings. Is there a solution to eliminate the loose bearings by using the '78 tapered cups? Willing to swap triple clamps if need be but don't want to get into cutting and welding frame.

-Footpegs. Any good aftermarket serrated type pegs that are a fit?

-Are there any mods to the front forks that are worthwhile?

-I have the original pipe and silencer in good shape, but its damn loud. Any aftermarket options?
 
15" shocks are what you need, whatever brand is fine.

It can be done, a couple people here have done it but it requires, if I remember correctly, a modified bearing race to be made to fit the '77 headstock, it is not a straight parts swap. Personally, other than the difficulty of keeping track of all the loose bearings, I dont see a huge advantage to tapered bearings so long as your loose bearings are properly greased and the steering stem is tightened properly.

Donno about aftermarket pegs, I modify the stock ones.

Best mods for the forks are the proper spring rate for your weight and skill level, do not waste your time or money with Race Tech Emulators.

There are several aftermarket pipes, I dont know how they would compare to a stock as far as sound level.
 
Thanks, my loose bearing cups are worn that is why I figure I would swap. John at Vintage Husky tells me he can supply cups that will work in a 77 frame but require a 78+ triple.

The ignition is a bit sketchy too. Sourcing electrical parts on ebay is dodgy, can anyone recommend an aftermarket set up?
 
There is not much stuff worth having on ebay at present.
If John at vintage husky has the parts, then buy from him. The later 78 fork yokes are fairly common, and cheap as many move up to 40mm forks. I like my 35mm ones and have never seen the point in swapping .... yet ! Foot pegs are easy. Andy at HVA Factory has them in stainless steel. They are not designed for the ML frame but 10 minutes with a grinder and a polish will see them fit fine. I have tried a couple of the aftermarket ignitions. The Electrex World works fine, and so does the German made Power Dynamo (was MZB). I prefer the German one as the lighting output for my WR is brilliant.
If it is of any use, my build thread is on here somewhere under "390 Auto Build". This was my 78 ML framed 390 Auto. Frame wise is is pretty much identical to yours bar the headstock bearings.
 
If you want tapered bearings you need a 78 frame.Completely different steering head.
 
I converted to taper bearings by extracting the cones from a 1978 kinda trash OR frame. I realize the difficulty of finding such a frame to harvest from as I have only ever found that one. The best way is if you have a friend with a metal cutting lathe, have him make you 2 cups that press into your frame with the ball cones removed. You need to get the bearings to build around as the race presses into the cone caps. if I get a chance I can give you a sketch of exactly what you need to have made.No cutting or welding on the frame required.

I also happen to have a set of 35mm triple clamps that are for the tapered bearing frames. You can PM me for price.

As far as exhaust, see if you can repack the silencer. Not really much need for an aftermarket exhaust unless it is bent or caved excessively. You can get aftermarket silencers . SuperTrapp was popular in the 70's when you wanted to control sound and the Classic Steel silencers are still available as well as aluminum units as well. www.supertrapp.com
 
Thanks grouty and jimspac. John L is hooking me up with the cones that will press into my frame - he has a machinist that makes him for his trick triple clamps. Before I saw jimspac offer, I found some '78 yokes on ebay that should work for $50.
 
Next up is brake pedal and brake plate bushings, one of the gremlins I was chasing when I thought I wanted to do a museum resto several years ago. So much slop in these parts it is not useable. I've ordered the bronze brake plate bushings from HVA as well as new torque link bushings and bronze brake pedal bushing. I HATE the bronze bushing set up on the brake pedal, but looks like that is the only option? Anyone run a better brake pedal set up, or know if the HVA 83+ pedal with the bearings could be fit?

While were are on it, is there a 40MM fork that is not drastically longer than the stock '77CR250 35MM fork?
 
You can use your damper rods in 40mm forks to shorten them, but that will bump you up into the next class where you would have to compete against 79-83 bikes. The best thing would be to stay with your 35mm forks, at the travel your bike has (8.5") they work fine.
 
For your silencing needs you need to hunt down a wr Pipe , it will surprise you how much quieter they are. I have a spare wr pipe to a 79 250 if it will fit and you are willing to trade me yours ? that is if they will cross over ? Maybe some one will know on here ?
 
Kartwheel68 said:
You can use your damper rods in 40mm forks to shorten them, but that will bump you up into the next class where you would have to compete against 79-83 bikes. The best thing would be to stay with your 35mm forks, at the travel your bike has (8.5") they work fine.
Click to expand...
Need to stay in class thanks,for tip. I'll spring the 35mm for my weight.
 
Hubs were sent off to Buchanans today, going with the sun rims in gold. Taking frame to welder friend who will straighten out a tweaked foot peg mount, then sandblast and auto-body grade paint for frame and the fun stuff can start.

Engine had a fresh-ish top end when stored and I did store with some oil poured down the spark plug hole, but I want to pull the jug and have a look....for the time being Ill try to put thoughts of rusted crank bearings out of my mind....

Before I drop $25 on an ebay re-print, are there any free factory service manuals out there for the ML bikes? I checked on this site and the moderator-provided link to a manual did not work.
 
84scrambler said:
For your silencing needs you need to hunt down a wr Pipe , it will surprise you how much quieter they are. I have a spare wr pipe to a 79 250 if it will fit and you are willing to trade me yours ? that is if they will cross over ? Maybe some one will know on here ?
Click to expand...


I am not sure about 250 but a 79 390WR expansion chamber would not work in my 78 WR frame with the 390WR engine in it but a 77/78 pipe fit perfectly.
 
So the tapered bearing triples that I got off ebay did not have the "distance spacer" shown in the parts fiche as part no. 7 which seems to sit below the bottom bearing. Is the diagram correct or am I actually missing a part?
 
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