• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

77 WR250 back from the dead

So tailor it to the type of riding by changing the rake angle, makes sense.

changing the pre load on the shoxs helps as well
 
suprize said:
So tailor it to the type of riding by changing the rake angle, makes sense.

changing the pre load on the shoxs helps as well
Click to expand...

yes, i have found setting up the ride height/sag in the rear makes the best improvement in handling.
 
sorry, I was referring to the later itc's which have a circlip preload adjuster on the shock body.
 
rich196 said:
How do you adjust preload or anything on the stock rear shocks?
I thought they are one size fits all.
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yes, im not sure its possible on your year. if you intend on any kind of real riding it would be great to get a pair of shocks that have adjustable preload, preferably threaded bodies or at least be able to swap out springs to get close to the correct sag.
 
justintendo said:
yes, im not sure its possible on your year. if you intend on any kind of real riding it would be great to get a pair of shocks that have adjustable preload, preferably threaded bodies or at least be able to swap out springs to get close to the correct sag.
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That's what I'd really like but who makes replacements?
All I've seen are companies that repair Ohlins.
 
rich196 said:
That's what I'd really like but who makes replacements?
All I've seen are companies that repair Ohlins.
Click to expand...
im sure ohlins, works, or another aftermarket shock manufacturer has a shock that will work..sorry im not more help. i had a 79 but it was already ohlins equipped.
 
I have just fitted a set of 15"1/2 Hagon shocks to my '78 390WR (Auto). I am very impressed with they way they work considering how little they cost. (Less than £200 sterling). I don't use mine for MX, so can't say how it would fare on a rough track. I did build mine originally with a set of Ohlins. But at 16" they were just too long. Plus I was struggling to get the spring rate correct. Damping was fine.
 
Aftermarket shocks are sold by length and connector type (pretty much everything else is adjustable/replaceable). If you know your eye-to-eye length, you should be able to find something, just pay attention to the clearances, and remote reservoir location if applicable.
Me personally, I'm cheap, but talk myself into quality in the long run. Were I you, I'd go to the local motorcycle salvage yard twice or 3 times looking to see what I can find on the shock shelf (usually has YMM on a tag), then not like what I found there and search aftermarket based on the more common bike. Depending on what I'd find I'd either go with something I found at the yard or a cross-compatible A/M that I found based on what I found out at the yard. In the case that I get really frustrated because I'm not finding a match/quality to my liking, on a whim I would end up taking the bike to my local Ohlins authorized shock shop (about a 40 minute drive away) and fork out some cash to have them set up something mid-range modern.
 
good suggestions, its really up to how much you want to spend...and how you are using the bike. if you are going to really ride the thing a set of shocks that can be set up correctly for you will be very sweet
 
justintendo said:
good suggestions, its really up to how much you want to spend...and how you are using the bike. if you are going to really ride the thing a set of shocks that can be set up correctly for you will be very sweet
Click to expand...

I used to do NETRA enduro's/hare scrambles/turkey runs on a modded Honda XR350 but this will be more of a recreation bike.
Plus I'm about 45 pounds heaveir than the old days:mad:
However suspension is the most important part of a woods bike so I will look for something I can adjust as needed.
Any one brand better than another?
I emailed both Progressive and Works Performance.
I also found Racetech and Hagon.
 
rich196 said:
I used to do NETRA enduro's/hare scrambles/turkey runs on a modded Honda XR350 but this will be more of a recreation bike.
Plus I'm about 45 pounds heaveir than the old days:mad:
However suspension is the most important part of a woods bike so I will look for something I can adjust as needed.
Any one brand better than another?
I emailed both Progressive and Works Performance.
I also found Racetech and Hagon.
Click to expand...

progressive is a waste as they cant be revalved or even rebuilt for your style/riding..works, ohlins, or something that can be rebuilt would be what i went with. im partial to ohlins myself. good quality and they are made in the right country
 
I got the rear brake/chain guide stuff and engine in today.
It was surprisingly easy to put in. I loosened the swing arm bolt and attached the rear mounts first then dropped the front into place.
 

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I'm with the ole' man. You would likely increase your chances of going over backward by quite a bit. Also might suggest using the other side of the ruler.
 
Another thing, What's the best way to clean/polish the handlebars? I'm using grey scotchbrite but it's slow going and labor intensive.
I don't want to use a more agressive color because I don't want to put in permanent scratches.
 
rich196 said:
Another thing, What's the best way to clean/polish the handlebars? I'm using grey scotchbrite but it's slow going and labor intensive.
I don't want to use a more agressive color because I don't want to put in permanent scratches.
Click to expand...

Chrome bars, right? Some guys swear by polishing chrome with aluminum foil. Google/youtube it.
And, I was referencing using the measure of your bike's origin (metric) :cheers:
 
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