Hi all,
First, let me start off with some bike info. It's a 2011 Husqvarna SMS 630 with a power up kit and JD jetting tuner. I bought it a few months ago not running. The owner said it back fired and then wouldn't start. I found the intake boot on the throttle body had come off. I reattached everything and the bike ran good. Always a little hard to start cold, but otherwise ran ok. I rode it several times, couple hundred miles total with only one issue. The bike did not like to idle when shut off warm and started again. I had to feather the throttle to keep an idle before proceeding to ride. After riding, it would idle fine.
Fast forward a few months and the bike shut off on me idling after a 20 mile highway ride. I could not get it started again and had to have a tow home. While waiting for the tow, I put more gas in, turned up idle, and tried roll starting it. Nothing worked. I promptly ordered a new coolant temp sensor and spark plug. The bike still did not start. I tested the resistance of the old and new temp sensor, both were fine. Both plugs also had spark when turning over, grounded to the engine.
I discovered I couldnt hear or feel the fuel pump. I took the pump assembly out and powered the pump directly. Only one click happened. I ordered and installed a new Quantum fuel pump, sock, and filter. Now I could hear and feel the fuel pump, but the bike would not start. I jumped wires directly from the battery to the fuel pump to eliminate any other sensors or computer. The bike ran fine. I tried this again the next day, and the bike wouldn't run. I eventually found that it was the tilting forward of the tank that was allowing it to run. I took the pump out and found a broken connector on the pump ground. I replaced this connector and had the same symptoms. Took the pump back out and found a loose power wire on the inside of the fuel pump bulk head that powers the pump. Installed the pump and everything back on the bike. Now the fuel pump was running properly.
The bike still would only start for a second and turn off. I found that if the bike ran just long enough I could rev it consistently (back and forth) and keep the bike running. If I kept the throttle turned, it would rev up and then die. I messed with the screw and could not get the bike to idle.
I took the line off the fuel injector and fuel comes out when the pump is on. Not a pressurized burst, but it flows. I took the injector out and it sprays a very fine mist, that gets a little stronger with throttle input. I was not able to find an adapter for a fuel pressure gauge.
I put everything back together and tried to start with starting fluid, with the same results, it will sometimes catch but promptly die. I checked again for spark, it sparks. Not sure if its strong enough, but I can make out the spark between the strap and center of the plug.
I check resistance on the CPS, it measures 100.7 ohms. I measured the ignition coil, primary measures 4.9 ohms and secondary measures 20.4 ohms without the spark plug cap. With the cap it measured 25.6 ohms. I changed all of the fuses and checked all relays. I even jumpered the fuses and relays one at a time with no change. When I did have it running initially after changing the pump I unplugged the tip sensor and it shut off, so that seems to be working fine.
I put a boroscope down the spark plug hole. It was too big to go thru the hole, but from what I could see, everything looked fine, just dirty. At various times, I unplugged the fuel tuner just incase it was bad. I've been keeping the battery on a tender to keep its voltage up while testing.
Sometime between starting this diagnostic 2 weeks ago and now, the left hand switch does not seem to be working. No blinkers, horn, or high beams. Headlight and instrument cluster work fine. I cannot pinpoint why this stuff isn't working. There is one circuit that powers all of these, the fuse labeled FDC, but the relay seems to be working and fuse it ok. I've checked all wires and connectors, and I dont see any issues. I did not go beyond the sheathing, as it looks ok.
I took off the head cover and checked timing. All marks line up and valve clearances are in spec. The kill switch is very sensitive. If I push on it just slightly, it turns everything off. I took it apart and everything seems fine. I also took apart the left hand switch and nothing looks bad.
The neutral light has been flashing since I got thr bike, which I attributed to the power up kit and O2 sensor deletion. I have ordered the iBeat cable and am awaiting its arrival. Anybody have any clue what's going on with the bike? Short of reading the codes, I have no other path to check that I know of. I'm hoping iBeat will tell me the TPS is bad, but otherwise I cant think of anything other than the ECU.
Thank you for reading till the end! I look forward to your opinions.
First, let me start off with some bike info. It's a 2011 Husqvarna SMS 630 with a power up kit and JD jetting tuner. I bought it a few months ago not running. The owner said it back fired and then wouldn't start. I found the intake boot on the throttle body had come off. I reattached everything and the bike ran good. Always a little hard to start cold, but otherwise ran ok. I rode it several times, couple hundred miles total with only one issue. The bike did not like to idle when shut off warm and started again. I had to feather the throttle to keep an idle before proceeding to ride. After riding, it would idle fine.
Fast forward a few months and the bike shut off on me idling after a 20 mile highway ride. I could not get it started again and had to have a tow home. While waiting for the tow, I put more gas in, turned up idle, and tried roll starting it. Nothing worked. I promptly ordered a new coolant temp sensor and spark plug. The bike still did not start. I tested the resistance of the old and new temp sensor, both were fine. Both plugs also had spark when turning over, grounded to the engine.
I discovered I couldnt hear or feel the fuel pump. I took the pump assembly out and powered the pump directly. Only one click happened. I ordered and installed a new Quantum fuel pump, sock, and filter. Now I could hear and feel the fuel pump, but the bike would not start. I jumped wires directly from the battery to the fuel pump to eliminate any other sensors or computer. The bike ran fine. I tried this again the next day, and the bike wouldn't run. I eventually found that it was the tilting forward of the tank that was allowing it to run. I took the pump out and found a broken connector on the pump ground. I replaced this connector and had the same symptoms. Took the pump back out and found a loose power wire on the inside of the fuel pump bulk head that powers the pump. Installed the pump and everything back on the bike. Now the fuel pump was running properly.
The bike still would only start for a second and turn off. I found that if the bike ran just long enough I could rev it consistently (back and forth) and keep the bike running. If I kept the throttle turned, it would rev up and then die. I messed with the screw and could not get the bike to idle.
I took the line off the fuel injector and fuel comes out when the pump is on. Not a pressurized burst, but it flows. I took the injector out and it sprays a very fine mist, that gets a little stronger with throttle input. I was not able to find an adapter for a fuel pressure gauge.
I put everything back together and tried to start with starting fluid, with the same results, it will sometimes catch but promptly die. I checked again for spark, it sparks. Not sure if its strong enough, but I can make out the spark between the strap and center of the plug.
I check resistance on the CPS, it measures 100.7 ohms. I measured the ignition coil, primary measures 4.9 ohms and secondary measures 20.4 ohms without the spark plug cap. With the cap it measured 25.6 ohms. I changed all of the fuses and checked all relays. I even jumpered the fuses and relays one at a time with no change. When I did have it running initially after changing the pump I unplugged the tip sensor and it shut off, so that seems to be working fine.
I put a boroscope down the spark plug hole. It was too big to go thru the hole, but from what I could see, everything looked fine, just dirty. At various times, I unplugged the fuel tuner just incase it was bad. I've been keeping the battery on a tender to keep its voltage up while testing.
Sometime between starting this diagnostic 2 weeks ago and now, the left hand switch does not seem to be working. No blinkers, horn, or high beams. Headlight and instrument cluster work fine. I cannot pinpoint why this stuff isn't working. There is one circuit that powers all of these, the fuse labeled FDC, but the relay seems to be working and fuse it ok. I've checked all wires and connectors, and I dont see any issues. I did not go beyond the sheathing, as it looks ok.
I took off the head cover and checked timing. All marks line up and valve clearances are in spec. The kill switch is very sensitive. If I push on it just slightly, it turns everything off. I took it apart and everything seems fine. I also took apart the left hand switch and nothing looks bad.
The neutral light has been flashing since I got thr bike, which I attributed to the power up kit and O2 sensor deletion. I have ordered the iBeat cable and am awaiting its arrival. Anybody have any clue what's going on with the bike? Short of reading the codes, I have no other path to check that I know of. I'm hoping iBeat will tell me the TPS is bad, but otherwise I cant think of anything other than the ECU.
Thank you for reading till the end! I look forward to your opinions.
