• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

630 valve adj.?

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Husqvarna
A Class
Could somebody please point me in the right direction. I need the specs on the 630 and a how to on changing shims?
 
Can you share the info??
I want to do the 600 mile valve check myself.
I have the specs from the shop manual (Use a feeler gauge to make sure clearance is 0.10-0.15 mm on the INTAKE side
and 0.15-0.20 mm on the EXHAUST side.), but am looking for DIY'ers how-to experience :)
 
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/how-to-check-valves-on-a-2006-4stroke-video.1159/

That's for the TE250, but the procedure is basically the same.

One thing that'll save you some headache is to at least remove the lower bolts from the radiators so you can push them out of the way while wrestling with the valve cover. Doing that helps, but the thermostat still gives me fits. The next time I check mine, I'm going to disconnect a coolant hose or two to save me some hassle.
 
As things wear do the gaps open up or get tighter? In other words, will I eventually need smaller shims or larger ones? I'd like to have them in advance before I pulled the valve cover off for the next inspection. I'm currently at 3200 miles and everything is in spec.
 
Travis Shrey said:
As things wear do the gaps open up or get tighter? In other words, will I eventually need smaller shims or larger ones? I'd like to have them in advance before I pulled the valve cover off for the next inspection. I'm currently at 3200 miles and everything is in spec.
Click to expand...
So far, mine have only gotten looser (needing thicker shims). 11,000 miles and many a valve check under my belt.
 
Some bikes will get looser and need thicker shims due to cam/lifter wear, but some high compression motors with big valves will actually get tighter due to the valves "mushrooming" and the valve stems getting closer to the cam.
Also, if your bike runs abnormally lean, you may get excessive wear on the valves and valve seats, causing you to need thinner shims.
 
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