630 Rear Brake Foot Pad Adjustment

[RDTCU]

My biggest concern would be if you dropped the bike and caught the brake pedal and damaged the master. You could always make a larger pedal stop to prevent that, wouldn't be too complex...

 

[kirbybikes]

If you look close at the photo's I posted above, I put a sleeve around the pedal stop to increase the diameter. Still makes for an adjustable stop just a larger diameter.

 

[twolane]

Thanks for posting the photos.. I still need to fix mine. Would it be possible to add some type of shim material to the brake arm (some JB Weld?) so that the stop would be functional?

Is that the XR650 clevis?

It is an XR clevis. I think it set me back about $7.

As for fattening up the stop- I guess some JB would work.... maybe lay a bunch on there and then sand it down to size/ shape?

 

[twolane]

If you look close at the photo's I posted above, I put a sleeve around the pedal stop to increase the diameter. Still makes for an adjustable stop just a larger diameter.

I think that's a MUCH better answer than JB weld! Nice call!

 

[Stolenfant]

Thanks fdor Great Mod! I'm only 5'9" with 29" inseam, and after PivotPegs, wish I had a little more range to drop the rear pad. The photos toward end really clinched the understanding. Get most of my "stuff" from a local Honda shop since Husky is nearly a state away, so shuold have one of these before weekend.

 

[BiG DoM]

Ok - so the thread says 630 but mods apply to 610 as well.

I have done a clevis mod without using the Honda part and it works really well.

Essentially very simple: You cut off the lower flattened part of the threaded plunger rod, remove the top nut and replace with a 2mm thick washer (the handbook states to retain this gap - additional washers can be inserted if neded), and reuse the bottom nut in the clevis as before. This gives enough lower adjustment without the brake lever contacting the footrest bracket (standard bracket not lowered). I added a small piece of high density rubber to increase and cushion the lever stop gap. See pics.

I have also some time back fitted a HH break lever tip which helps me with contacting it = I ground down the OEM tip on the top to allow the HH tip to fit level and clamp in place. See pic.

 

[BiG DoM]

So I decided to turn up a larger diameter adjusting stop for the brake lever after all - see pic below (it is not in the final position of adjustment, just fitted in place)

 

[jtemple]

Definitely envious of you guys that can machine your own parts!

 

[mike54]

Ok just to revisit this, my rear brake pump has failed due to (I assume) having no stop. The lever sits below the stock stop rendering it useless. My set up is this:

Honda clevis, top nut and washer on the upper side of the push rod. I've been using a modded lever which has a hammerhead tip welded on and overall the lever is straighter.

So, I want a once and for all solution to this. Does anyone have access to or has a friend who can do CNC? I want a new lever where the arm is 10 mils lower overall and is straight. If no one can do this I'll talk to my local shop and get a price for say, 10. Thoughts?

 

[RDTCU]

You mean straighter in the section that goes under the case to get it lower? Would be nice for some cases. I don't have as much trouble with the height using my Gaerne Supermoto boots, as they have a good neutral ankle angle and plenty of flex. With my TCX street boots, I had a little trouble covering the brake with the stock stop setup, so I turned a bigger stop and replaced one master cylinder jamb nut with a thick washer.

If you get TOO low on the tip of the lever, you might snap it off or pull apart your master cylinder in a low-side, or be more prone to catch it on stuff offroad.

 

[KXcam22]

I will need to do this. I put some +5mm lower pegs on and the brake pedal is high to begin with. I might try a safety cable from the brake tip to the frame to keep it from braking in a lowside. Cam.

 

[K7MDL]

Some other tips

For those with minimal tools you can fab up a larger adjusting stop with a hacksaw, file and drill. The key is find a thick piece of aluminum plate or easier, a section of aluminum solid rod. If using rod you just slice off the rod end to the right thickness then drill an off-center hole to fit your bolt. If using plate, hacksaw a square piece and cut the corners off it then file it down. Not much harder than wood. I found bar and plate stock of all thickness/diameters at the local metal salvage yard. Lots of machine shop recycle pieces there.

For the brake pedal tip: I ground off the stock rivet, drilled a countersunk hole for the engine facing side of the brake arm and used a countersunk bolt. This lessens the sharp point of contact against your clutch cover when you inspect the hardness of the ground on the right side. I also put on a KLM replacement brake tip.

 

[blueknob]

In lowering my brake pedal, on my 610, I took the stock adjuster, and with some aluminum brazing rod, added some material to it, so it would contact the pedal.

 

[BaronVonDarrin]

 

[Fast1]

Does your rear tire turn freely without any pressure on the brake peddle?

Lift up the back end and spin the rear tire while off the ground.

 

[Joe Schmoez]

Haha, you're tall like me aren't you...
I maxed out the adjustment on mine and it's about enough, but it's still a bit difficult to cover the brake wearing boots on one wheel while still sitting in my normal position...

Ha yeah 6'2" over here I think its the same problem you're having.

 

[Joe Schmoez]

Does your rear tire turn freely without any pressure on the brake peddle?

Lift up the back end and spin the rear tire while off the ground.

It does turn freely. There is about 3mm of play before the rod hits whatever it does in the cylinder before it applies the brakes.