• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

630 - no spark

s1marks

s1marks

Husqvarna
AA Class
My 630 died out on the road and I can no longer get it to start. I now have it home but it appears to have no spark at all at the plug. The main coil seems to check good as per the manual.

I'm thinking that the problem must be either the pulsar coil is not working correctly or the CDI unit has gone bad. Is there anyway I can check either or do I just have to replace the cheaper of the 2 first and hope I go the right one first?

Is it possible that something else (like a bad temp/clutch/sidestand sensor) would tell the CDI not to produce a spark?

When the bike broke down, I managed to get it restarted several times, ride a bit and then it would die again. Like I said now I can't get it to start at all and there is clearly no spark at the plug.

Any help anyone can give me would be much appreciated, I really would like to ride the thing again.

Thansk S1
 
Do you have another plug you could test spark with just to rule out the plug? Is the plug excessively wet?

How difficult was it to restart when you did get it restarted? This was a sign of a failed temp sensor on mine (hard starting).
Does the fan come on when you turn the key on to start it (another sign of a failed temp sensor)?
 
Same happened to me, unexpectedly on the motorway. T´was a wire to earth next to the battery on the left hand side that had been chafed by the seat. Was able to repair it before the police arrived.
 
Thank you for the responses.

Fast1: I do have another spark plug that I tested with and I can rule out the plug being the problem. It was not wet. With the spare plug attached to the HT lead, I can hold the plug in my hand grounded it to the motor, when I can crank the bike there is no spark. It was difficult to restart and very sporadic until it finally quit alltogether, itwould either 'fire right up' run for a bit and then die or would not show any signes of starting at all. The fan does not turn with the ignition on.

rickcj7: I am in Banks, Oregon. About 30 miles west of Portland. If you are anywyhere close you may be in for a lot of free beer!

organ donor: Thanks I will check for wires up by the battery specifically to see if I can spot anything that may have worn through.

S1
 
If you can get iBeat plugged in you will see any error codes that have been stored. It took me straight to my shorted injector harness when my bike died.

Like OD said, check for the harness pinched under/beside the battery (at the VR).

Check the harness that runs down the front downtube, it can get melted by the exhaust pipe.

630 doesn't have sidestand switch, clutch switch would keep the bike from cranking at all. Temp switch wouldn't prevent spark.

Follow the harness that runs down to the crank sensor?
 
Bad conection under seat?

vhqr9u.jpg
 
Dynabob: Thank you for this => 630 doesn't have sidestand switch, clutch switch would keep the bike from cranking at all. Temp switch wouldn't prevent spark. Very useful in allowing me to ignore what it's not and focus on the other suggestions yourself and others have made.
josebdx2002: Thank you for the pic (speaks a 1000 words) I will look at this first tonight then work around the other harness places that have been suggested.

Thanks for the responses, I will report back tomorrow on my findings. Very much appreciated.
S1
 
rickcj7: I am in Banks, Oregon. About 30 miles west of Portland. If you are anywhere close you may be in for a lot of free beer!

That's not going to work! I'm on the east coast.
Let me know what part you need I may have it. UPS goes to Oregon.
 
we'll, I went over the bike pretty thoroughly last night looking for any signs of a pinched/pulled/damaged wire and found nothing. I checked all of the places suggested and more.

As I previously stated I checked the coil which appears good
(For those interested:
A: primary winding resistance: 4.5 Ohm (+/- 15%) at 20 °C.
B: secondary winding resistance: 19.5 KOhm (+/- 20%) at 20°C (without spark plug cap cable).
C: terminal cap resistance: 5 KOhm (+/- 10%) at 20 °C.
)

I see no mention in the manual of how to test the Pulser coil (Pick-up or Timing coil to some of you), but I found on the web that I should be able to test the coil by checking the resistence across it and most are in the 180ohms to 300ohms range, so I will check that tonight. Failing that, my next step is the CDI or dealer help, unless anyone else has some 'cheaper' suggestions.

Thanks again for all the responses.
S1
 
We recently had an issue with the stator on one 630 that was diagnosed by using the shop manual testing procedure.

From what I remember, the battery and voltage regulator should be checked first per the shop manual.

Start on page M11

Not sure if this would be worth your while or not.

End result was the stator was not maintaining complete battery charge and the bike would either die or not start. Owner replaced battery several times and used a trickle charger thinking the battery was discharging due to lack of use. Only resolved the issue temporarily.
 
On page H4 in the manual you can see the crank position sensor behind the left cover. You may want to pull the cover and test it with a magnet to see if it works. The harness unplugs upstream to hook the meter to.
 
This is a hall effect sensor. Passing a magnet in front of it will produce a change in voltage (or create a voltage). I'm far from an expert but if the CPS isn't working you're not getting spark. This is just something I'd try before buying a new coil or ECU. I'm assuming S1 feels his battery is ok and has been charging.

HuskyCPS.jpg
 
On both 630's I have owned where the wiring loom passes under the rear subframe near the battery, the loom was rubbing on the sharp edge of the battery strap hook. You cant see it without removing the battery or plastic inner guard. two yellow wires and one green wire had been rubbed through. May not be your issue but worth having a look there.

 
It would appear that it is indeed the Pulser coil (CPS in the above diagram). On checking the 2 wires to the CPS unit I have no continuity. According to what I have read there should be a resistance of a few hundred ohms.

The bad news is that Husky sells thee as a unit with the stator, the complete unit is $319, they don't sell the CPS separately. If anyone happens to know if these use the same CPS in a 610 I'd appreciate it if they could let me know. I may have a line on one from a blown up 610 motor (if my buddy hasn't sold it with his now running 610 already). It would be useful to know what the actual resistance across a 630 CPS should be if anyone has the chance to check theirs for me.

Thanks again for all the responses, whilst the bike is not running I am going to look carefully at all the wiring rub points people have mentioned and reinforce with electrical tape where necessary.

Thanks S1
 
Have you checked with any of the aftermarket stator repair companies to determine if the CPS might be available or repairable?
 
Yeah that's nuts they don't sell it separately, other than sharing a harness has nothing to do w/ stator. I'd look for any id marks on it and try to find one.

If I can get to the plug I'll get you a measurement.


.
 
Just thought I'd post a quick update having finally got the bike back together and running again today. I managed to get hold of a used pulsar coil (CPS sensor) from a husky TE610 (it was the carbureted model of 610). The CPS sensor is identical. I took a gamble that it would fit….so now you don’t have too if yours goes out.

My CPS showed zero continuity on the multi-meter when connecting to the 2 wires , the replacement showed almost no resistance across (sorry I didn’t take an exact measurement).

If you ever need a new sensor, then you can get a replacement from these people out of the UK (the ONLY other supplier that I found for a new item).

Electrex World
Stoke Row
Oxon
United Kindgom
+44 (0) 1491 682369

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230977656231


Hope this help someone that has the same problem in future
Cheers S1
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top