630 Kickstand Fix - Quick 'n Dirty, Cheap 'n Sleazy

[CJBROWN]

Dynobob had a great idea for a quick fix on the side stand. He made one from a piece of steel and sent me a pic and I thought it was a great idea so developed it from there.

This one is 1/4" aluminum bar stock, I had some left over from the subframe reinforcing plates. And I had some longer bolts for the added plate thickness, blue loctited them in. The best part of it for me is that the only cost was a little time laying it out shaping it with some hand tools - basically a 'free mod'.

The biggest issue for me with the side stand is that it swings too far forward allowing the bike to lean over too far. This fixes that issue. However it does not fix the fact that when it swings down the arc is too low so you have to lean the bike over to put the kickstand up. And it doesn't fix the loose pivot shaft, oh well. The bike does sit up where it's supposed to now.

Alas, I finally get to toss my little half inch chunk of plywood I always set the stand on.

PS. I just now read Ken's thread on his custom stands. In full disclosure I had not seen his stop plate previously. Obviously this is not in the same league but did fix the little niggles I had with it.

 

[Kenneth Webb]

Great minds think alike! (Just kidding) That stop plate will make world of difference!

 

[CJBROWN]

Thanks for posting Ken.
I feel kinda stupid because I ignored your thread thinking I didn't have a problem, and then posted with what I thought was another good fix for the issue.

I don't know if dynobob dreamed up the stop plate idea himself or if he copied yours. I read thru your thread after I'd made my stop, took pics, and posted this thread. Imagine my surprise to see a very similar solution. My apologies if you didn't get credit for coming up with the idea in the first place.

Looking forward to riding with you in Death Valley!

 

[Travis Shrey]

What is the distance from the center of the top peg bolt to the end of the stop? I'm going to do this later today...

 

[CJBROWN]

I did not measure. Got a rough length based on the existing stop, drilled and mounted, and then drew a line close, cut and grind to fit. If it's too long the stand won't come down enough, and if you cut it too short it just hits the stock stop. Aluminum is easy to shape with hand tools.

 

[Kenneth Webb]

The stock aluminum stand, very soft material, hits the stock hinge plate at an acute angle, and the more you use it the more the aluminum gets wallowed out from pressure. This allows the stand to rotate more and more forward over time; not a good thing! The stop plate gives a very sold stop and makes all the difference. My fix uses a steel plate with a tab welded onto the back so that the stop hits the center of the top lug on the stand. This prevents any axial load. I also used a larger bolt at the top of the stand; a full 10mm, for extra strength. Before I went in head first into my stand I thought about doing as CJ did, plus weld an aluminum plate onto the bottom of the stock stand, projected out away from the bike several inches. It would interfere with the passenger pegs, I think, and the stand would still be a little too close to the swing arm. I changed the angle of the stand to avoid the swing arm, and it gets the foot outboard some more. I am still befuddled about how Husky could come up with something like they did.

I won't be making any more stands because they cost more than I charged, and that includes zero for my time and effort. Regardless, I am pleased to have made a few for fellow 630 riders, and anyone who wants to tackle this for themselves could do it the way I did for my own bike. That is, modify the stock 610 stand. Not any cheaper though unless you are able to cut and shape steel tube, and do your own welding. I can provide the tube dimensions I used for the stand tube, reinforcing tube, and sleeve material, along with a source. It's a lot of messing around to get it right, but not all that difficult. The stands I made are much beefier up top than the stock 610 stand, but doing that requires machining some solid bar stock. Expensive!

As for credit, who cares! I don't. I just looked at my little WR250R and did very much the same as Yamaha. The stand on that bike is stout!

Can't wait to get to Death Valley! Leaving here this Friday and taking my time on the way so I can visit a buddy in Tucson to do a day of riding there. See you at PSR and hope you CA guys can show me some good riding.

 

[CJBROWN]

I am still befuddled about how Husky could come up with something like they did.

They put some bozo junior engineer on it and he made it way more complicated than it needed to be. Maybe they borrowed him from BMW.

Can't wait to get to Death Valley! Leaving here this Friday and taking my time on the way so I can visit a buddy in Tucson to do a day of riding there. See you at PSR and hope you CA guys can show me some good riding.

DV will be fun. It's a different kind of ride out there. Long distances and vast territory. Fortunately a lot of it can be ridden pretty fast, there's a lot of fairly smooth dirt roads, with some obstacles thrown in. The big Husky is the perfect bike for out there.

The scenery is breathtaking. With Badlands at 265' below sea level, and the mountain ranges at over 10K', from a geological standpoint it's unbelievable. And it's very stark - there is very little plant life. The lowlands are desert but the higher areas become alpine with pinion pine and oak trees. Just hope the weather holds and some of the snow from this weekend has a chance to melt. Expect temps in the 60's and 35-40 at night. Saline Valley was in the high 70's last week.

 

[mekanik]

The stock aluminum stand, very soft material, hits the stock hinge plate at an acute angle, and the more you use it the more the aluminum gets wallowed out from pressure. This allows the stand to rotate more and more forward over time; not a good thing! The stop plate gives a very sold stop and makes all the difference. My fix uses a steel plate with a tab welded onto the back so that the stop hits the center of the top lug on the stand. This prevents any axial load. I also used a larger bolt at the top of the stand; a full 10mm, for extra strength. Before I went in head first into my stand I thought about doing as CJ did, plus weld an aluminum plate onto the bottom of the stock stand, projected out away from the bike several inches. It would interfere with the passenger pegs, I think, and the stand would still be a little too close to the swing arm. I changed the angle of the stand to avoid the swing arm, and it gets the foot outboard some more. I am still befuddled about how Husky could come up with something like they did.

I won't be making any more stands because they cost more than I charged, and that includes zero for my time and effort. Regardless, I am pleased to have made a few for fellow 630 riders, and anyone who wants to tackle this for themselves could do it the way I did for my own bike. That is, modify the stock 610 stand. Not any cheaper though unless you are able to cut and shape steel tube, and do your own welding. I can provide the tube dimensions I used for the stand tube, reinforcing tube, and sleeve material, along with a source. It's a lot of messing around to get it right, but not all that difficult. The stands I made are much beefier up top than the stock 610 stand, but doing that requires machining some solid bar stock. Expensive!

As for credit, who cares! I don't. I just looked at my little WR250R and did very much the same as Yamaha. The stand on that bike is stout!

Can't wait to get to Death Valley! Leaving here this Friday and taking my time on the way so I can visit a buddy in Tucson to do a day of riding there. See you at PSR and hope you CA guys can show me some good riding.

I appreciate the time and effort you put in,I do not have the engineer mind set myself, I just fix what they engineer to break!
Enjoy DV, wish I were there.