630 Fuel Pump Leak

[EricV]

something things to consider for your issue

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-T...Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b6a3b473&vxp=mtr

If memory serves me correctly when I had a slight leak on my 510 I filed the pump flange slightly at the bolt hole (holes) near the leak to allow more pressure when tightening the pump to the tank and causing a tighter seal from the large o-ring gasket.

Essentially I removed some of the material from the pump mount to allow it to snug up closer and pressure the gasket for improved seal (skip the remarks on the photo, I just posted it for a visual)

Thanks fella- I appreciate it. Yes- I am watching that tank on the Bay and have made an offer on it- hoping the guy accepts my offer (so please, if one of you is about to leap on that tank, please don't! )

That pump/flange is from a 610 (or, I guess based on what you'd said, a 510)- the 630 has a thin-ish plate that seals the pump against the tank, but still point well taken. I may try a double up of o-rings (stock plus one that's thinner) if the perma-shield doesn't hold- and also trying to get that tank you pointed out. Haven't been able to get a response from the seller (2 Q's I'm asking of him: Is the mounting surface a flat unwarped plane and are all nutserts in the tank and solidly in place.) Thanks again!

 

[DYNOBOB]

I think the permatex will fix your problem. I'd apply a small bead over the o-ring and let it fully cure before putting the pump in.

You have a pic of your tank?


.

 

[EricV]

I think the permatex will fix your problem. I'd apply a small bead over the o-ring and let it fully cure before putting the pump in.

You have a pic of your tank?


.

Sure hope you're right. My warpage is significant- sorry to say I didn't take pics. Sadly I didn't let it fully cure- followed the instructions which said to let it dry to the point where it didn't have the acetone smell, then install. It probably sat about 10 mins and was pretty tacky. I wish I had let it fully cure- I placed a bead/blob on a piece of plastic and, today, it's got the right feel to it. I'm tempted to undo it and re-do it but waffling on that (hoping I got a good enough bead and don't wanna keep taunting the nutserts- this is twice I've tightened them down tighter than I would normally tighten a nutsert.) Hoping to button everything back up on Sunday and see what happens. Thanks for chiming in.

 

[EricV]

Hi gang. For all of your listening and advice the least I can do is provide an update. I finally got the bike all buttoned back up a few days ago and just got back from a 30 minute shakedown ride. The pump leak seems to be holding fine w/ the Permatex Permashield. Now that's not to say I'm feeling great about it quite yet...shoot, where the mounting plate seats against the tank you can see the warpage/gap...but at least it's holding. I did buy the used tank on e-Bay as I've a feeling that's in the stars for me- hope it arrives soon.

I do think the Permatex Permashield holds promise though. My warpage is significant, and a good thick bead left to fully cure before seating will, I think, do the trick. The reason I haven't as much confidence in mine is because a.) the aforementioned significance of the warp/gap and b.) I didn't let the stuff fully cure first (waited until acetone smell dissipated- about 10 mins.- as the package said....I think fully curing is best as it doesn't fully harden.)

Now on to other things. Looks as though I'm gonna have to rebuild the clutch master (seepage) and- for whatever odd reason- the bike doesn't fire up as easily as it used to. That puzzles me. The thing has been on the battery tender all winter, just checked/adjusted valves (feel very confident I have them set just right, and it sounds right), replaced the air filter w/ a new one, and added the Iridium plug. I had to use the enricher lever (which I normally have to do, on my bike, on the first cold engine start of the day) and it took several attempts. If engine is fully hot and I re-start it right way then no issue. Hmmm.

JonDirt- Did you have any luck w/ the recent leak on your Safari? I liked the idea of building it up w/ the tank repair epoxy then sanding to a plane.

 

[pinocono]

Permatex solved my leaking from around the fuel pump mount.

Now it's leaking from behind one of the cross over valves.

This Safari tanks has to be the biggest $650 POS I've ever run across. For the money they charge for these things, they are a complete rip off.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Now on to other things. Looks as though I'm gonna have to rebuild the clutch master (seepage)

Is yours a Magura? I spent $100 on 2 rebuild kits trying to stop my seepage and it never helped, turns out, it a bad bore, I just keep it topped off and wiped off now...

 

[EricV]

Is yours a Magure? I spent $100 on 2 rebuild kits trying to stop my seepage and it never helped, turns out, it a bad bore, I just keep it topped off and wiped off now...

Yeah, it sure is. I've not tried the rebuild kit yet (I do have one)- been doing the check/wipe method. After reading up on this a lot on advrider I'm becoming more and more convinced that it is indeed a bore issue. I'll post back when I strip mine down and inspect it closely.

Thanks man...and keep up the good work on the Cheap Tricks thread on the 4S forum...great thread!

 

[Stuart Walker]

I have just had the same leak from the fuel tank, mine was the fuel tank itself was warped where the pump fits on. my only guess is the exhaust (standard Arrow) manifold has melted it? I really dont think this is good enough from a bike that is only 25 months/4000 miles old


.

 

[EricV]

I have just had the same leak from the fuel tank, mine was the fuel tank itself was warped where the pump fits on. my only guess is the exhaust (standard Arrow) manifold has melted it? I really dont think this is good enough from a bike that is only 25 months/4000 miles old.

As you've seen it's a common issue regardless of what head pipe is being used, so my thought is it's not directly attributable to the arrows. My warpage was very significant- certainly worse than what you've got- and a good bead of the Permatex Permasheild has held up without issues. If you go that route just follow the directions, and of course make the bead a little thicker at the warped section (and thin where it's not warped.) I agree- it's disappointing.

 

[Fast1]

something to think about.. excessive heat from the head tube results from lean fuel metering..

Could improper fuel metering be causing the tank mounting surface issues and the reason some owners have not experienced this
issue at all?

 

[RDTCU]

Mine warped and started leaking after idling for a long time while I was tinkering with Ibeat
I had set up a box fan, but it must not have been enough.