• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

630 Cam Chain & Tensioner Replacement

Wow...what we call a 'necro thread' or a 'necro post' LOL. On dredging up a long dead thread.

It is my understanding that the new head on the 630 cured all the issues the 610 had, easy shim change and long cam chain life.
 
Yea, it's an older one for sure, but contained an incorrect assumption concerning the spec length and wear limit for the 630 timing chain, so thought I'd update it for future searches. Based on my observation of zero measurable wear on the timing chain and the guides after 15,000 km or 9000 miles, I'd say it's an improvement over the 610.
 
Definitely. Thanks!

I haven't heard of anyone having any real issues with cam chain wear. Seems the clutch spring cup issue is the biggest one with a fairly easy fix. And perhaps the countershaft splines - perhaps a certain brand of sprocket could cause increased wear.

I'm just over 6K miles now. Just put new chain and sprockets on it. Haven't really done anything to it except regular maint - change the oil and filter and check the valve lash a couple of times. Oh yeah, replaced the lower stemhead bearing. It still runs like a swiss watch. :thumbsup:
 
In case anyone is interested.... I did the 12k service a while back and the camchain and sliders looked like new. I ordered the parts ahead of time in case they needed replacement, but the old/new looked very much the same, no wear marks or exposed metal. The manual had no spec for the camchain length as mentioned earlier, so I measured the old and the new, and they measured the same(sorry I don't have that measurement to hand). One note is to remember to take the crankshaft end protector off once the flywheel is loose, if you use the Husky flywheel puller, as the flywheel does not fit over the protector and one could keep on crankin' on the thing forever. Now for some so-so photos:
Camchain guide, new;old.JPGView attachment 47664
 
Could you post your results in measuring the new chain if you have them? I'm curious to know if mine is in spec... i'll be tearing it down this winter I guess.

I always thought of Huskys as reliable long term bikes- kinda getting a bad feeling that this thing may require a lot of upkeep... I can do roughly 2000 miles a year just commuting to/from work which I plan to do on my 630- figure there's probably another 2-3k worth of riding about for whatever- and then trips that vary.

Just wondering if I made a mistake ... my SV has 40000 miles on it and it's been running rock solid since 11k... valves haven't made a peep... just put it in the shop for a heavy check over but... kinda surprised at the intervals I'm seeing for this 630 :/
 
Already did:

"Fyi. The numbers referenced above for other twin cam cagivas don't match the te630. I just pulled mine, and measured 135mm between 21 pins. Bike has 15,000 km on it at the moment. I had already bought the new chain, and compared it to new, which also measured out to 135mm between pins. No measurable wear."
 
Yeah i just read back and saw that- thanks for your help on this.

Are these bikes just naturally a little noisy? It's reminding me of my Seca 2 which sounded like a rattle snake no matter what you did. This husky isn't *that* loud- it's just noisier than my SV so perhaps that's just me being over sensitive to it.

Thing runs strong... guess i'll take things apart in the winter and see for sure.
 
pcguru000 said:
it's just noisier than my SV so perhaps that's just me being over sensitive to it.
.
Click to expand...

Thumpers are always a bit noisy, so that's normal. Your SV and my V-Strom share the same engine (albeit with a hotter cam in yours) and it's so smooth and quiet you can hardly tell it's running when idle, so coming off your SV anything will be noisier except an electric bike.
 
Just be aware, if you start hearing a knock under part throttle/light load that goes away when you close the throttle, don't ignore it thinking its normal. I checked cam chain and valves, didn't go away. Turns out rod bearing is shot. :-(
 
usually after how many kilometers adjust the chain tension with the registry ?
every oil change ?
the workshop manual does not say when.
 
CJBROWN said:
OEM tensioner is self-adjusting.

Registry?
Click to expand...

I think the automatic spring does not always work .
better to carry out by hand adjustment as indicated on the service manual
In this way many noises are reduced
My Pegaso 650 gas a similar system, and the timing chain has 180.000 km. never replaced
 
You have a photo of detail of timing chain to identify the type?
It is a Morse chain?
It is a DID chain?
I dont have opened my engine......
Sorry for the question
 
Rotax_655 said:
I think the automatic spring does not always work .
better to carry out by hand adjustment as indicated on the service manual
In this way many noises are reduced
My Pegaso 650 gas a similar system, and the timing chain has 180.000 km. never replaced
Click to expand...


If you carry out it by hand, please, explain the way you make it. It seems contradictory the fact that OEM tensioner is self -adjusting to the fact that the manual says that needs to be "hand adjusted".
What do you think?
 
Guys, a lot has been said in this discussion; however, I assure you that you have nothing to worry about under 30k. I know of 630's that did not need cam chain replacement even after 25 000 km. A reputable husky mechanic did not advise a timing chain replacement until rebuild time--which is 50 000 km.

Therefore, I suggest you guys have nothing to worry about. We own quality machinery not some shoddy bikes from China.
 
Sooter said:
Guys, a lot has been said in this discussion; however, I assure you that you have nothing to worry about under 30k. I know of 630's that did not need cam chain replacement even after 25 000 km. A reputable husky mechanic did not advise a timing chain replacement until rebuild time--which is 50 000 km.

Therefore, I suggest you guys have nothing to worry about. We own quality machinery not some shoddy bikes from China.
Click to expand...

OK I agree with you
This confirms that in the workshop manual there are several things incorrect
 
motranqui said:
If you carry out it by hand, please, explain the way you make it. It seems contradictory the fact that OEM tensioner is self -adjusting to the fact that the manual says that needs to be "hand adjusted".
What do you think?
Click to expand...

in my opinion it is necessary to adjust the timing chain tensioner at every oil change as described in this photo when the piston is at top dead center
 

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This procedure is for reinstalling the tensioner back after you have taken it out. Not about adjusting it.
You should not have to adjust an automatic tensioner.
 
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