• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

610 -- check your oil pump

Circus

Circus

Husqvarna
AA Class
I recently had the right case off to work on the clutch. I noticed that the oil pump gerotor was scored on the outside, and the oil pump housing was also scored. To be clear there are two gerotors. The thinner pair shown here on the left go on the back side of the oil pump housing. The thicker pair shown here on the right go on the front side of the oil pump housing facing in the photo here. The gerotors are only about $15 each ($30 total) but the housing was around $70.

Read this thread on realigning the housing properly with the case to damaging the groove in the crank and break off one of the tangs: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255593

I also show the parts list below. The oil pump housing is #2, the alignment pin is #6, and #7 is spacer that also has an alignment hole in it. You need to line up the hole in the spacer with the hole in the side case, and then line up the oil pump housing.
20141224_102753_zps640f3814.jpg
20141224_103050_zps890a7f72.jpg

OilPumpPartsList_zps5737f43c.jpg
 
The screen should have stopped the debris that caused that damage. No?
Were you able to find out where the debris came from?
Did you cut your oil filter apart to look at it or do you think it happened when there was a different filter in there?
I hope you figure it out.:)

Circus said:
I recently had the right case off to work on the clutch. I noticed that the oil pump gerotor was scored on the outside, and the oil pump housing was also scored. To be clear there are two gerotors. The thinner pair shown here on the left go on the back side of the oil pump housing. The thicker pair shown here on the right go on the front side of the oil pump housing facing in the photo here. The gerotors are only about $15 each ($30 total) but the housing was around $70.

Read this thread on realigning the housing properly with the case to damaging the groove in the crank and break off one of the tangs: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255593

I also show the parts list below. The oil pump housing is #2, the alignment pin is #6, and #7 is spacer that also has an alignment hole in it. You need to line up the hole in the spacer with the hole in the side case, and then line up the oil pump housing.
Click to expand...
 
Something must have gotten through the filter. But no, I did not find any debris in there and the screen before the pump was clean.
 
The only times I've seen a gerotor set torn up that bad (whether on a pump or a motor) was when they had ran without oil.

I hope you get it sorted.
 
Thinking that a random piece of metal had scored the oil pump, I replaced it with a new one. I then checked the new oil pump after 30 miles and found it scored up too. So obviously a more severe problem than a random piece of metal. Bike has 26,000 miles. It's now at the dealer. Needs a new crank, bearings, piston, etc. has not split the cases yet so who knows what damage all the metal did to the gears. The mechanic said the the oil looked very "glittery". The bike has been my daily ride for the past 6 years.

Can't be without a bike for that long so what else was I to do except buy a new 2015 BMW S1000R. Amazing bike. Even though not broken in, and I can't rev past 7000 rpm, the thing is a missile and pulls harder at 70 mph than the Husky at any speed. Well that's probably not totally fair but it pulls hard.
 
Dude, it was running before right? The dealer is just trying to get money out of you. Ride it until it breaks then scrap it. It's not worth spending thousands on.
 
Please explain why it is "lousy advice"? It was running, the dealer says it needs x,y and z which will cost several thousand $. Logic dictates that you will still get some use out of it before it blows rather than spending thousands fixing it. You might as well run it into the ground and then scrap it.
 
The dealer wasn't just trying to get money out of him, they were telling him what it would take to fix the problem. Instead he spent many more thousands on a very nice new BMW. He's happy, and now has the time to decide whether he wants to fix the Husky or sell it.
 
I like that strategy. When my Hawk wasn't running right, I bought the TE. Now the TE has been giving me some grief, I'm eyeing up a Hypermotard. Any excuse for a new ride is a good one in my book.
 
I just don't see the point in spending thousands to fix something that is still running. You'll get more value if you run it into the ground.
 
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