• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

530 big bore kit break-in advice

tilt1up

Husqvarna
AA Class
Installed a 530 kit in my 2010 510smr. Motor has a 1100 mi. on it and I only replaced the cylinder and piston with the kit parts. Been running Castrol syn. 10w-50 for the last 500mi. Should I switch back to a petro-base oil to seat the new rings? Best oil for this? Would like to get some advice on a good break-in method for this kit. Thanks for your help.
 
I dont see why could not run in with new normal oil, same as you use now. If you buying new bike, in motor has new oil in motor
I used the old oil when I drove in that kit, but those old oils had been driven only 100 to 250 km, before i used.
 
My Amsoil rep tells me that unless the owners manual specifies otherwise, engine break-in should be done with dino oil to seat the rings and run in the cams, then switch back to full synthetic.

My personal practice for a new engine/top end is, before even riding it, take the engine from fully cold to operating temperature and back to fully cold three times. Then go ride with the recommended break-in rev, load and time limits. Perhaps that's not necessary with 4 strokes any more, but it was one of the cardinal rules for 2 strokes when I was growing up, and it just stuck. I reckon it can't hurt.
 
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