511 Cold Starting Issues

[Apri11]

Has anyone else experienced cold starting issues with the 511's at all? Just changed to an Iridium plug, initially did make a difference and cold started straight away though after running for awhile seems to have gone back to the troublesome starts at cold.

 

[ghte]

I find that iridiums are a part of the fix. The other bit is battery. Huskies do not kick over that fast if the battery is not well topped off. Are you using a trickle charger? If not this should do the business.

 

[Apri11]

I find that iridiums are a part of the fix. The other bit is battery. Huskies do not kick over that fast if the battery is not well topped off. Are you using a trickle charger? If not this should do the business.

I'm not using a trickle charger, she starts fine when warm though. I've reset the EFI By-Pass screw back to 2 1/4 +/-1/8 as well and performed the TPS reset. I'll inspect the battery situation and see if it helps as well.

 

[James Patton]

Mine sometimes takes a couple of tries cold. Never fails to start though, after that quick and easy starts.

 

[oregonsage]

Generally no problem, though one 30 degree morning when the 511 it was new it struggled. I dont trickle it, have just started using the Iridium on it, so we will see if there is any noticeable change.

 

[TE in RC]

Generally no problem, though one 30 degree morning when the 511 it was new it struggled. I dont trickle it, have just started using the Iridium on it, so we will see if there is any noticeable change.

What oil viscosity are you running? Many threads on that topic!

 

[oregonsage]

Mostly 10-40, but currently 0-40

 

[TE in RC]

Mostly 10-40, but currently 0-40

a synthetic?

 

[oregonsage]

Always

 

[Apri11]

Mine sometimes takes a couple of tries cold. Never fails to start though, after that quick and easy starts.

I'm just not convinced that a brand new bike should have such starting problems when cold, my dealer even says it's common. Immediately once I replaced the stock plug for the Iridium CR9EIX the bike started as soon as you pressed the start button. I've only let her idle in the garage since the new plug and now it takes approximately 10 seconds of turning over to start from cold? Am I running too rich or lean, I'm really unsure? I have the JD Tuner set to te following:
Green: 4
Yellow: 4
Green: 3
Green/Blue: 5
Yellow/Blue: 6
Red/Blue: 4

Picture of stock plug pulled out, it looks fine to me?

 

[gaffin john]

How many kms do you get on those setting I just put a jd tunner on and it was way to rich I only got 65kms all single track

 

[Tinken]

Has anyone else experienced cold starting issues with the 511's at all? Just changed to an Iridium plug, initially did make a difference and cold started straight away though after running for awhile seems to have gone back to the troublesome starts at cold.

What oil viscosity are you running? Many threads on that topic!

How cold is it there and which oil do you use? (Brand and Viscosity)

 

[SDPUTTER]

Has anyone else experienced cold starting issues with the 511's at all? Just changed to an Iridium plug, initially did make a difference and cold started straight away though after running for awhile seems to have gone back to the troublesome starts at cold.

Sorry, I can only console. Cold starting, mine has always taken 3-4 tries to run. Mine will fire pretty quick 1st and 2nd tries, but dies after a few pops. I have the FMF slip-on and JD tuner. I've messed with the tuner up and down and not much difference when starting. I also feel something is amiss. I have a stock yamaha raptor with what appears to be much more basic FI and it has always fired right up in all conditions and never had a flameout with tons of hours on it. I wonder if the size of the throttle body is too big for this size motor and cannot sustain proper air/fuel mixture/flow when cranking (cold)? Seems to crank slow.

I still get occasional flameouts in different conditions....have never been able to completely tune them out. My next try is to have a dealer load the FI map that others are talking about when I get a chance to get it in?????

 

[Tinken]

The JD tuner is more of an averaging unit. It cannot add signal in specific points like the stock ecu or the power commander. The best thing is to load the racing maps and/or the pcv addition.

Also, I feel that oil viscosity plays a huge role during startup in theses engines. There are many very fine oil jets and the bypass is after the filter which will bind enough to rob 2 horsepower even in warm conditions.

 

[Apri11]

What oil viscosity are you running? Many threads on that topic!

I've been using Motul 7100 10W40.

 

[TE in RC]

I've been using Motul 7100 10W40.

Tinken is definitely my oil expert. I will run whatever he recommends. From new I have used Mobil racing 4 stroke synthetic.

 

[Tinken]

Choosing oil can be difficult in Australia, I am not exactly sure what is available, but I found a Motul that works phenomenal in these engines. I'm not sure how much it costs up there in Australia, but the 300V 5w40 in either the factory or the off road versions is as thin as 0 weight Mobil 1 at 40°C. Even Motul boasts "Extra power at the rear wheel : Wet clutch lock up improvement." haha. Down here in the US, I usually recommend Mobil/Shell 0w40/5w40.

 

[Apri11]

Choosing oil can be difficult in Australia, I am not exactly sure what is available, but I found a Motul that works phenomenal in these engines. I'm not sure how much it costs up there in Australia, but the 300V 5w40 in either the factory or the off road versions is as thin as 0 weight Mobil 1 at 40°C. Even Motul boasts "Extra power at the rear wheel : Wet clutch lock up improvement." haha. Down here in the US, I usually recommend Mobil/Shell 0w40/5w40.

Thanks mate, I'll give it a go as well

 

[Londin]

I use 300V 10w40 but its expensive!!! Around $100 for 4 L

 

[Tinken]

I use 300V 10w40 but its expensive!!! Around $100 for 4 L

Jesus, it's not worth that. We need to find you something else!