• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
    FE = 4st Enduro & FC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

FE/FC 4CS service/revalve time- WP Factory Services vs Superplush

But everyone seems to be looking for someone who knows how to let the magic out as most find them nearly unbearable stock. And many are reporting very mixed results and that they are complicated and change over time as well as having fragile parts internally causing issues.


Been riding the asymmetrical setup and it works just fine. The fork is really not that complicated and it is easy to work on. A bonus- spring changes on a CC fork=45 minutes 4CS=15 minutes. A nice feature on a closed chamber fork. No fragile parts on the '14 and newer, although I believe there was something breaking on the '13's? The changing over time is probably due to leaky o rings and/or piston rod seals- some of which can be caused by the person working on the fork.

Not a perfect fork, but workable after minor mods. No need to totally re-engineer IMO.
 
Been riding the asymmetrical setup and it works just fine. The fork is really not that complicated and it is easy to work on. A bonus- spring changes on a CC fork=45 minutes 4CS=15 minutes. A nice feature on a closed chamber fork. No fragile parts on the '14 and newer, although I believe there was something breaking on the '13's? The changing over time is probably due to leaky o rings and/or piston rod seals- some of which can be caused by the person working on the fork.

Not a perfect fork, but workable after minor mods. No need to totally re-engineer IMO.


Ha ha ha... OK. Seems on the trail your tone was quite different. You hated them stock (I thought they were OK) and hated them more with the gold valves both tries. Sounds like SBD did a workable job on them finally.

No fragile parts on the '14 and newer, although I believe there was something breaking on the '13's? The changing over time is probably due to leaky o rings and/or piston rod seals- some of which can be caused by the person working on the fork.

lots of parts and internal seals is all I am saying. Glad you like it now.
 
Ha ha ha... OK. Seems on the trail your tone was quite different. You hated them stock (I thought they were OK) and hated them more with the gold valves both tries. Sounds like SBD did a workable job on them finally.

I didn't say I liked them stock or with the RT mods in the above post.... Stock was definitely better than all the RT work I did.



lots of parts and internal seals is all I am saying. Glad you like it now.

No on the lots of parts and seals. I do like it now; Darryl's fork was really good and we modded mine a bit beyond that. Chassis is rock stable and very predictable. Need a couple more rides on it to make it all it can be :)
 
hey bowser and b2, thanks for the info.

I fully agree you can get more performance out of these with some aftermarket parts...

Very curious if you guys can give any details for when you were on the OE route, like
-what were you after with your tuning/what were your goals for your tuning on the 4CS?
-what limitations did you run into? compliance just not there, or couldn't eliminate the bottoming, or ?

also, what was your previous bike with what you consider the best fork? wp CC, kyb SSS or something else?

many thanks...

I had a setup i was nearly 90% happy with using stock parts, bleed shim on the rebound stacks and check valves flipped over so both top adjusters were comp. this worked really well but sucked not having rebound adjustment.

I have some stacks for you to try using stock parts if you want to get your hands dirty

my current terry hay setup works well, saying that i'm also hoping to experiment using the Dyva suspension bits. Purely for interest sake
 
Got mine done at the local Husky dealer- suspension guy with Terry Hay's parts. I'm friends with the dealer so I get to play around for scientific purposes.
What we have done now is fit the bottom adjusters to convert the forks to compression at the bottom and rebound at the top for both sides. Inside, changed the bits to swap that one leg compression to rebound at the top.
Got the dealer to sort the shims following his advice. No new valves used for now as I can easily swap them later to gold valves if needed. To change the valve, remove fork, turn upside down and undo the bottom cap. No oil leaks out and you can swap the valves-shims there.
This fork is really easy to work on, as a favour I done the work myself except for the shims and the dealer ran me through it.

Took them for a test ride and the results are so much better! No deflection, more composed but smoother. That harsh feeling at the beginning of the stroke is gone but then is more composed and doesn't bottom out that easily. Also more consistent, I found that the damping changed before from OK to terrible during a ride over hard pack. I haven't played much with the clickers yet, left them where I set them in the middle for everything for now till I get a good feel.

Conclusion: Anyone that thinks these forks are OK out of the box is wrong, no matter how much you adjust the clickers! Ride one that has been sorted properly and it will prove you wrong. I'm not the best or fastest rider by a loooong stretch but now I feel more confident, and the bike goes where I point it. Wash out at the front gone and soft bumps and hard knocks are absorbed without the front trying to deflect me in the bush.

Well worth the effort and price! Enjoy it much more now. I'm sure it can be improved still but this is how it should have come from the factory.
 
Good to hear Bikesparky.
I'll be testing mine out tomorrow morning using gold valves + Base adjusters & Terry's recommended stack which looks fairly stiff but will also give me plenty of adjustment.
After finally getting our first bit of winter rain to say I'm excited is a massive understatement!
 
I had my first ride today using RT base adjusters & Gold valves with the setup recommended by Terry & it was bloody great!
I was tempted to slightly change the stack but decided that the only true test would be to run what I was told.
The terrain was mixed with everything from fast whoops to rock gardens, I did my best to get it to bottom out or deflect & couldn't do it.
By the end of the ride I had it at 8 clicks out on rebound & 1.5 turns out on compression (approx 9 clicks), those settings sound like it would be fairly stiff but it was actually the total opposite, smooth comfotable racey it had it all.
Can't wait for next weeks race.
So after spending a little over $400 with Terry I now have forks that do everything you would expect from a ready to race bike & are still a genuine 4CS & the only thing I've lost is the ability to adjust comp on the fly..... Small price to pay for forks that feel this good.
 
Is it really? I thought that changed it to open chambers with base valves which in that case is not at all 4CS and closed chambers.



nope, terry's setup still has them as closed chamber, uses standard mid piston but different base piston (G2r gold valve) and race tech adjustable base valve.

Other race tech dealers are going down the OC route but terry differs from them
 
Well thats cool, i thought it was still an OC comversion
Yeah I thought it was pretty cool too, the fact that I didn't need to go all Bruce Jenner on the forks & butcher them made it the option that appealed to me the most.
Shim shuffling worked but still left a few unpleasantries but the Terry Hay mod is the ultimate fix in my opinion.
I think the biggest improvement came from the base adjusters being installed.
 
Yeah I thought it was pretty cool too, the fact that I didn't need to go all Bruce Jenner on the forks & butcher them made it the option that appealed to me the most.
Shim shuffling worked but still left a few unpleasantries but the Terry Hay mod is the ultimate fix in my opinion.
I think the biggest improvement came from the base adjusters being installed.

Good to hear you're happy too! So far great improvement with Terry's parts, even without the gold valves!
I'll try that in the future also.
 
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