• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     FE = 4st Enduro & FC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

FE/FC 4CS Air Chamber-School Me

octagon pilot

octagon pilot

Husqvarna
AA Class
Is the 100mm air chamber length (from the Owners Man) measured with the fork fully assembled and vertical? Or some other method

And,
if I wanted to play with my oil height-

could I just take the bleed screw out and use a tool like a motion pro fork oil level gauge and add oil?
and
could I use that same tool to remove some oil as well?

Looking for a little more bottoming resistance....

Thanks to all

Here's the tool I'm talking about-
X001-Y001.jpg
 
The tool pictured is for setting oil level with your fork cap off, spring removed, and you fork fully compressed. You must use the dump method when setting your oil level. Motion Pro does make a tool that screws into the bleed hole so you can add a measured amount of oil. The tool above will not fit into the bleed hole. Better yet, Take your forks off and unscrew the caps from the outer tube. You can then collapse the fork slightly and add 5cc to each leg. Super easy.
 
That tool is used to remove oil at a preset height. You should be able to remove the bleed screw in the cap and add oil via the little hole or do it as Hoov said.
 
thanks for the replies, guys.
and to make sure i know what I'm looking for, how should I check the 100mm air chamber/oil level that is spec'd in the OM?
Cap off, spring out, fully compressed?

many thanks
 
octagon pilot said:
thanks for the replies, guys.
and to make sure i know what I'm looking for, how should I check the 100mm air chamber/oil level that is spec'd in the OM?
Cap off, spring out, fully compressed?

many thanks
Click to expand...

Correct. Make sure you extend the outer tube up ALL (the fork will not come apart)
the way to dump the oil into the inner tube before compressing to measure. There is no bleed hole in the lower part of the inner tube so oil remains between the two until you do this.
 
Hoov165x said:
Correct. Make sure you extend the outer tube up ALL (the fork will not come apart)
the way to dump the oil into the inner tube before compressing to measure. There is no bleed hole in the lower part of the inner tube so oil remains between the two until you do this.
Click to expand...


Suddenly, Mr 4CS tuner. :D
 
Going into the shop right now to pull the fork off so I can tear into them. Why do I get the feeling this will be a weekly recurring theme?
 
Hoov165x said:
Going into the shop right now to pull the fork off so I can tear into them. Why do I get the feeling this will be a weekly recurring theme?
Click to expand...
Hoov bear in mind even the factory gave up on tuning their 4CS forks, none of the factory enduro/MX guys run 4CS they all run WP Cone Valve cartridge forks.......that was a dead giveaway to me.
 
Personal preference and what they already have on the shelf is a better assumption then 4CS don't work. David Knight carries his suspension in a box to his races out of country. He runs WP cone valves, traxx shocks that are set for him,,, bike to bike to bike. Point is the Pro's run what works for them and we would never need those components nor can afford them.
 
Weantright said:
Personal preference and what they already have on the shelf is a better assumption then 4CS don't work. David Knight carries his suspension in a box to his races out of country. He runs WP cone valves, traxx shocks that are set for him,,, bike to bike to bike. Point is the Pro's run what works for them and we would never need those components nor can afford them.
Click to expand...

You are correct, you just need something that works safely from the factory, unfortunately 4CS is not it. How much are the cone valves ? I see guys spending a lot on the 4CS stuff, can they be that much more ? Also how do you like your sherco ?
 
They are pricy for the complete fork just like Olhins. I don't have a lot of time on the 4CS but so far they are stiff but very workable. Many tuners have fixes for the issues faster or more picky riders have with them. Everyone I heard that sent their forks to Stillwell really like them. Cost is high but worth it since you can do more with a good suspension set-up. I would not at all toss these forks, just find the right tuner and have them set for you.

http://www.stillwellperformance.com/4cs/
http://www.ridepgpowersports.com/wp-cone-valve-forks/
http://www.ktm-parts.com/4800CV-p-KTMHESF.html

Sherco,, It is the first bike I threw a leg over and in minutes felt like I could race it. Even with very light springs for my son, I turned faster times on my track then my Beta. Since then I sprung it for my weight and sold the Beta. Light (ready to ride @ 252lbs), nimble and fast for a little bore bike. If you get a chance ride one it is a fun bike.
 
You say dont toss but stillwell and most others want $600 just to fix these forks... I still feel like the more "valving" you try to do on an offroad fork the more problems you are going to have.... I would take a set of CC, OC or SSS forks in a heartbeat.... at least I can revalve them at my house and not need a degree to figure them out....
 
Sounds like you are comfortable working on other forks not these 4CS. Because of this the cost which many pay you can't grasp since you do your own work. Time to learn a new fork! I had a tuner locally that would revalve my stuff for 1/2 of that and throw in springs if needed. I'm with you, cost it steep but most bikes no matter brand needs work. End results are very good and $600 is less then fitting those other forks on. SSS forks are the best out there in stock trim. Many Yamaha riders still spend $$ to make them work for their conditions.

If done right more valving works just ask Fox. There was a time that a 4 speed was all you needed. Now some cars have 8 speeds and I bet the mechanics are saying no need just more problems.

If you swap forks, I would be interested in your 4CS.
 
Well Factory Connection has my forks now and I'll see how close they get.... if they dont I'll either be tearing into them or swaping....

There was a Factory KYB guy that gave me some advise years ago on KX 500 forks.... restricting oil flow on off road forks doesnt work that great and foams up the oil....
 
I'm not a fan of FC. It seems its either too overly plush or MX hard for endure bikes. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 
Rode one yesterday on its second try at gold valves and it is still very confused. Owner likes it less than stock which he did not like.
 
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