• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

449/511: Help with flameout PLEASE!

Map 3 was better for me. FMF gave more power. TPS reset also helps sometimes. I like my bike to rip, and it does, but I also like it
to do tight slow technical stuff easily. I finally popped for the PCV. I really like it, now I think I want the autotune and map switch.
For tight woods, good gas mileage, and quiet operation, I run PCV, decatted exhaust, 13 tooth front sprocket and PCV"s map.
For good all around with excellent snap PCV FMF, 15 tooth sprocket, and zip-tys map. also stock airbox on the above.
For let's get crazy, the nick map, with TC airbox, FMF, any sprocket you want....
The decated exhaust mode with PCV's map and stock exhaust is so pleasant to ride, it will lug along, really hard to kill, idle set at
1950/2000RPM, PCV allows you to see where you have it. also reset TPS and see results, add startup fuel and do timing adjustments.
motomummy had them for around $300. The bike does run better with time, but mine always did seem to be prone to die if not
handled right. These maps and parts can be changed very quickly and easily once you do it a time or two.
If you do the PCV, take your time and read and study, and its very easy. good luck...I loves my 511
 
Idle screw #1. RPM IS YOUR FRIEND!
Change to synthetic oil ASAP, clutch works much better.
After the Communist can fell off, you did plug the vacuum port on the head right?
Do another TPS reset, yes do it again anyway.
Ride it like a two stroke for a while. Slip the clutch some when lugging around. This is not a DR/XR.
This motor really does take several hundred miles to truly break in.
Last, but most importantly, be patient and ride the thing before you throw any more money at it.
 
If you are still flaming out after a remap from us, there is something wrong. When did you have your ecu remapped and did you directly through us?
 
Just got the remap from zip-ty and have one ride on it.
Here's what I did today...
Changed the ground from head to frame.
Raised it idle (no tach, so... just raised it.)
As of now, my suspicion is that the idle was too low and was messing things up. Prolonged closed throttle at too low an idle was "loading it up" (old-school talk). I'm going out again tomorrow so we'll see. And... I've only got a little over 100 miles on it.

Thanks for all the input.
 
If you decide to remove the o2 sensor the bolt is a simple replacement, you don't need to hunt a $55 one from your dealer. It's an oil drain plug, 12x1.25 off the shelf at autozone or similar store $2.99. You can pull the sensor out and keep it protected in a zip-lock.
 
Tinken said:
If you decide to remove the o2 sensor the bolt is a simple replacement, you don't need to hunt a $55 one from your dealer. It's an oil drain plug, 12x1.25 off the shelf at autozone or similar store $2.99. You can pull the sensor out and keep it protected in a zip-lock.
Click to expand...
PERFECT!
 
You only have 150 miles on it, that is the problem. Don't buy anymore items, you have enough already. You need to get to about 500+ miles. It was literally like a light switch going on with my bike. I crash from flameouts so many times that I was afraid to ride the bike. I suspect much of the problem is with dragging clutch, my bike always jumped and stalled the first time into gear, and it dragged. I had it flameout in a turn with the clutch pulled, that was near the last straw, then with some miles it literally changed overnight from one ride to the next.
 
Interestingly, I have many customers tell me that after 400 miles, the engine breaks in. I rebuilt my 511 at 1500 miles and measured all parts and the cylinder for wear. I found no tolerance change, not even on the cylinder. It could be that the ef injector or tbi breaks in to some degree to allow more fuel? That I'm not sure of. At any rate, the flame outs are caused from a too lean condition at low rpm's. A temporary fix is to raise the idle, this brings the rpm up on the map scale which has higher fuel %'s. Even with map#3 and our factory pcv maps I felt there still was not enough fuel. When I created the NB maps, I added additional fuel in these areas. An addition item I found that helps is a megabomb header. It does this because it provides back pressure at low rpm, therefore richening lower throttle positions and providing higher torque.

As far as the DDS clutch goes, it drags if you don't float it with thin enough oil, has nothing to do with wear. In all of the races we ever did with the 449/511, we never wore out or broke one of these clutches. I highly recommend M1 0W40 for the Kymco 449.
 
Yep, my bike would have satisfied most when I had 1000mi. and an FMF and map3. At 2000mi. I wanted the bike to perform at its best,
the PCV and the maps from Tinken, the TC airbox, plus the breather system, and I feel is is vastly improved. I am aware that these bikes
are not DRZ's or XR's. I have a DRZ400 and an XR650, they are fun reliable bikes but not in the same league as my 511 with is present
setup. I don't have anything to sell. I just like playing with my bikes, and will share what works for me. Those NB maps are smokers.
 
Is that Mobile 1 your recommending the motorcycle version? I thought the car version might have friction modifiers in it?
 
New511Guy said:
Are the NB maps something that can be loaded into the existing ECU or does one need a PCV?
Click to expand...

I had all the same problems as you so know the frustration.
Solution was reflash the ECU with Akrapovic map, fit PCV and custom map on dyno.
Expensive but now has perfect fuelling, no stalling and a lot more power.
 
the NB map is for PCV. The reflash to map 3 is a huge improvement and only cost 40. It made a huge difference
On my bike, but I still thought it could be better, so PCV and it is.
 
Well, I'll give it a little more time but I don't anticipate much of an improvement (have map 3, FMF powercore w/ silent core). Last ride had fewer flameouts but had one while (admittedly) lugging it in 3rd at about 7mph. Nearly pitched me over the bars. I suppose that, in view of the thousands spent on the bike and current mods, another several hundred on a PCV and tuning is worth it.
 
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