• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

390 Kick Arm Stripped

tigercnk

Husqvarna
B Class
The kick starter on my 80 CR 390 has stripped. The splines are toast. Can’t seem to find a used unit in good condition. If anyone has a good used unit please PM me
Aloha
Tiger
 
eBay? I think the 250/360 shafts of that era are the same. Any pics? The splines changed one year.
 
The levers come up on ebay every once in a while... Often for crazy prices. If you're patient you can find a good one at a decent price.

In a pinch the far more common kick levers from the earlier bikes... at least back to the start of the GP frames in 1975 and probably a couple years earlier... should be adaptable to your bike... but you lose the nice way the lever swings out and away.
 
The splnes on kick unit itself are stripped, not the shaft it attaches to. So essential I need the entire unit. I found a used
arm on ebay, splnes appear to be ok. No
NOS to be found unfortunately.
 
Save the old one! Another thing that goes wrong is the lever part splits where it slips over the stub on splined part. I had one do that and have seen some split like that on ebay. I was thinking I still might have the splined piece from my old one and was going to look for it this weekend... but glad you found one!

Also be careful about installing the new one... easiest with the cover off... lots of threads on here about it. You probably know this already but if you install the splined piece wound up to where the internal kick gears engage too soon it's very likely the cover could break on a kick back.
 
Probably the poorest part of the Husqvarna design, fine splines, hitting the footpeg and on the left side, plus the vibration of single cylinder engine is not a recipe for a long life. This has lead to a pretty extreme shortage of kickers and the only other one I have found with the same splines is the similar era Rotax 2t, probably even harder to find!!
 
No trick or treat here, I did weld the kicker. It has been a bear to find another cheap enough for me. One day I'll get one. It was a fast and easy repair. I've kicked that bike a thousand times with no ill effect except the damage to my foot. I wish it would start! I still limp around after 3 months. I know it's not the kind of thing to admit on a Husky Forum. But I aint sceert.
 
I've kicked that bike a thousand times with no ill effect except the damage to my foot. I wish it would start!

Well then fix it. When properly tuned, absent of air leaks, and have a clean carb. bowl Huskys are not difficult to start.
 
I'm working on that.
:)

I would still dispute that big bore Huskies are easy to start, relies on to many factors to be right including the basic of just being able to stand at the right height to kick them over.
 
Had the same problem on my 78 390. After going through 2 kick start levers I installed a decomp device in the head and no problem since. Takes the load off the fine spline.
 
It would be great if someone started reproducing the 1978-1980 fine spline knuckle. Or make the shaft in the coarse spline to use the 82 and later kick start levers

Marty
 
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