• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

  • 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC 2016 TE300 JETTING

EUREKA**************************************** Just took reed valve block off, and 2 of the inner reeds are not seating properly, one has a small gap and the other is slightly twisted. It doesn't appear to be the actual carbon fibre reeds, but the block itself, I turned the reed upside down and it's still the same.
This perfectly explains why I have the air screw 4 turns out, leanest pilot jet, leanest needle, and have very rich 1/4 throttle, due to the blow back allowing the intake air to pick up fuel several times through the carb.
The bike is out of warranty now, so I'll have to see what hapens about a replacement.
 
WP_20151019_002_zpsftxcgaep.jpg
 
There are gaps, but a lot smaller than before, and no twisted petals. (On further inspection of the old block, the offernding petal is twisted, hence the non parallel gap)

I then unscrewed the new block and rebuilt it so the screws hold it together tightly, but with no distortion, and the gaps closed up.
WP_20151024_002_zps8gghizdd.jpg
 
So, awaiting a road test when I've decided whether to go mousses or UHD tubes.
(got a nail in tyre last time out, with the OEM condom thickness tubes. Was 2 rides short of binning them anyway....)
 
Here is what I have found to work on my 2016 TE 300 I installed the other needle that came with the bike found that the clip worked best on second grove down from the top I installed a 172 main that is about it I rode everything from King of the moto trails to wide open and it worked great I do run straight leaded race gas at about 35 to 40 to 1 with lucas 2 cycle oil I also changed from the stock 7 plug to a 8 plug
It is working if I change I will post

Also rode from below sea level to 4,000 feet no problem
 
ajaxauto said:
Here is what I have found to work on my 2016 TE 300 I installed the other needle that came with the bike found that the clip worked best on second grove down from the top I installed a 172 main that is about it I rode everything from King of the moto trails to wide open and it worked great I do run straight leaded race gas at about 35 to 40 to 1 with lucas 2 cycle oil I also changed from the stock 7 plug to a 8 plug
It is working if I change I will post

Also rode from below sea level to 4,000 feet no problem
Click to expand...


Thanks for sharing the info, I have been experiencing a lot of blubbering at low RPM's. I will give this a try and see if it works for me also.
 
First time I installed the needle I was told to put the clip in the 3rd spot or middle When I did it would run good down low like in the rocks But when you got on it like in open higher speed section It had a flat spot miss at about half open Once I change the clip to the # 2 spot it was all gone and ran fine everywhere
 
So I'm still getting a slight bog off the bottom if I snap the throttle on from idle to Wide open. If I roll the throttle on it is fine, or of the revs are up its fine, but I can't seem to get on top of this issue. Running the Air screw at 2.5 turns out ( set this by listening to the engine and leaving it where the revs are the highest ) , using a suzuki triple taper NECJ on the 2nd clip from the top ( was at the 3rd ) and just intatalled the red Power valve spring. Using a 35 pilot/172 main and 85 start/idle jet. Im in oz, the temp was around 25 celcius and sea level.

I havn't checked the float level yet….A bog off idle suggests a "lean condition" but it doesn't really clear up if the air screw is wound nearly all the way in...if I wind the air screw all the way out I can get produce a definite "lean bog" .
Im a little confused because I don't think it is lean, I'll have a play later on and install the next size pilot for trial and error….but the air screw setting now suggests the correct pilot.
 
I also fought with this a bit. Lower your float level. After doing this I put a 175 main in. I am also running the same needle and pilot as you are. I ride from sea level to 1400 meters all the time.
 
Lincolnlock said:
I also fought with this a bit. Lower your float level. After doing this I put a 175 main in. I am also running the same needle and pilot as you are. I ride from sea level to 1400 meters all the time.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, i'll check my float and report back. It came with a 175 Main but I dropped that to a 172 as a plug chop showed it was still pretty rich.
Hopefully the float level cures it
 
Finally after 5 weeks of not riding, I got out last night and tested the new reed valve - What a difference****************************************! The bottom end has really cleaned up, and the bike is running really smooth now. The transition from idle burble to clean running is now nearly seamless, no snatchy on off power delivery, and it runs clean when cruising on the road.
I recently bought a NECJ RM250 needle, so will try that soon, and report back. Happy days!!
 
Michael Ryan said:
So I'm still getting a slight bog off the bottom if I snap the throttle on from idle to Wide open. If I roll the throttle on it is fine, or of the revs are up its fine, but I can't seem to get on top of this issue. Running the Air screw at 2.5 turns out ( set this by listening to the engine and leaving it where the revs are the highest ) , using a suzuki triple taper NECJ on the 2nd clip from the top ( was at the 3rd ) and just intatalled the red Power valve spring. Using a 35 pilot/172 main and 85 start/idle jet. Im in oz, the temp was around 25 celcius and sea level.

I havn't checked the float level yet….A bog off idle suggests a "lean condition" but it doesn't really clear up if the air screw is wound nearly all the way in...if I wind the air screw all the way out I can get produce a definite "lean bog" .
Im a little confused because I don't think it is lean, I'll have a play later on and install the next size pilot for trial and error….but the air screw setting now suggests the correct pilot.
Click to expand...


necj on clip 4 second from top is very rich for a 300.

250's generaly run larger jets than 300's but only the next size up, i am at seal level in OZ 14/ 250

40 P, NECJ clip 3, 168 main

if i had a 300
38P A/S 1.5 turns out
NECJ clip 3 or 2
165 main
 
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