• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

  • 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC 2016 TE300 JETTING

Tetley

Tetley

Husqvarna
AA Class
Im trying to sort the jetting on my new bike, so I set the correct jetting for temperature and altitude, as per the manual - 35 pilot, N8RG needle on 3rd clip, air screw 2 turns out, and 175 main. However it ran very rich at up to 1/4 throttle, so very spluttery, and snatchy drive, and was horrible to ride on technical stuff with little grip.
So on day 2, I dropped the needle a notch, which made a bit of difference, then wound the air screw out to 3 turns, and that made a lot of difference, but it's still not right.
next plan is to stick the N8RH needle in to see what happens.

Has anyone got their 2016 model dialled in perfectly yet, and what settings used? I ride from sea level to around 1500 feet, and UK temp is 10 - 20 degrees at the moment.
 
I left my 2015 TE300 on the setting it came with and it still seems to run ok. I haven't tinkered with the carb yet but will see as the weather gets cooler. Where are you based? I'm in Norfolk.
 
kitcat said:
I left my 2015 TE300 on the setting it came with and it still seems to run ok. I haven't tinkered with the carb yet but will see as the weather gets cooler. Where are you based? I'm in Norfolk.
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Bucks, but I ride a lot in Wales, as it's fantastic for enduro training and competitions :)
I don't suppose you know what settings it came with? You probably got 35 and 38 pilots, a 170, 172, 175 (&115) mains, and a N8RG, N8RH (N84K) needles. You can work out what's in the bike by what's in the jetting and power valve spring pot. Items in brackets are the homologated settings for 'road use'
 
Mine came with all those you mentioned and the items fitted are 35 pilot, 172 main and the yellow spring. It's been quite hot on the days I've been out and that set up matches the 25* to 36* weather temp. I've found it to run ok and good on fuel consumption, especially with the supermoto wheels and gearing.Now it's getting cooler I'm going to have a play using the settings recommended in the manual.
 
These 2 items were also supplied in a bag of spares. Any ideas what they are? Thanks.
 

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The N8RG, which is fine for my low altitude according to the manual. In fact, it looks like I just need to change the main jet to 175 with everything else staying the same as I'm still getting 16* or higher days.
 
kitcat said:
These 2 items were also supplied in a bag of spares. Any ideas what they are? Thanks.
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I think they are the throttle stop for the homologated restricted tune, Didn't get them with my bike, but they would have ben removed by the dealer. Legally, these bikes should only be used on the road with a throttle stop, N84K needle, and 115 main jet. How the hell they run at all, corked up like this, is a mystery! It's all Euro-bollocks!
 
Ha! Thanks for that. I love my Husky and may try a new exhaust system for next year quite fancy the FMF tail pipe.
 

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I've just been researching Keihin jet needles, and what their codes and part numbers mean. What a confusing mess! There seems to be so many different part numbers and numbering systems for needles, I'm lost. Has anyone actually cracked the needle numbering system? For example, my bike takes a N84K for homologated road use, and N8RF, N8RG, N8RH and N8RW for off road use. I gather the N is the needle series, the F, G, H, K & W is the diameter of the straight part of the needle, F being thinner, richer, and W being fattest, leaner.
The middle 2 letters and numbers are a mystery to me, as they don't seem to follow any charts I have found, but must have something to do with length and taper?
 
that re-engineered airbox must really flow much better than my 2014 ( I use M162 at altitude and a M165 at sea level pretty per the OEM chart).
They said they increases air flow into the box.
 
I've now put the leaner N8RH needle in, clip 2nd notch from the top, and swapped the 175 main for a 170. This didn't really affect the over richness at idle and small throttle openings. So I wound out the air screw another turn to 4 turns out, and this has brought the idle mixture about right, if not a little lean. There is still a bit of richness from idle to 1/8th throttle, so the engine is still slightly blubbery when there is little load on it. I also did a plug chop after a couple of fast miles on the road, and the colour is light brown, so it looks like the top end jetting is near bang on.
I can't work out why the air screw has to be wound out so far, as I keep reading that 2 turns is the max, and if any more is needed, then the pilot jet is too big. But 35 is the smallest you can get!
 
Has anyone tried the NECJ Suzuki RM250 needle yet? Reading the KTM forums, this appears to be a magic bullet cure-all needle. Even been fitted to Gasgas EC 250 / 300's with good results.
 
Tetley said:
I've now put the leaner N8RH needle in, clip 2nd notch from the top, and swapped the 175 main for a 170. This didn't really affect the over richness at idle and small throttle openings. So I wound out the air screw another turn to 4 turns out, and this has brought the idle mixture about right, if not a little lean. There is still a bit of richness from idle to 1/8th throttle, so the engine is still slightly blubbery when there is little load on it. I also did a plug chop after a couple of fast miles on the road, and the colour is light brown, so it looks like the top end jetting is near bang on.
I can't work out why the air screw has to be wound out so far, as I keep reading that 2 turns is the max, and if any more is needed, then the pilot jet is too big. But 35 is the smallest you can get!
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That's right 35 is the smallest pilot. If you are still too rich at 0-1/4 throttle you should try a needle with a fatter straight section. The needle straight section also has an effect in that area along with the pilot size and air screw. I don't think turning the air screw out will have any more effect after 2 1/2 turns.
 
PowerKord said:
That's right 35 is the smallest pilot. If you are still too rich at 0-1/4 throttle you should try a needle with a fatter straight section. The needle straight section also has an effect in that area along with the pilot size and air screw. I don't think turning the air screw out will have any more effect after 2 1/2 turns.
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Yes I was surprised at how much effect the air screw had! Backing out from 2 turns to 3 turns made a MASSIVE difference to the blubbery slow speed running, and backing out to 4 turns made more very noticeable difference, but idle seems possibly a little lean now as it occasionally hangs slightly. But there is still a slightly rich spot from idle to 1/8th throttle, and as you say, a fatter straight section needle is required.
The problem I have, is finding a clear and concise Kiehin needle chart which explains all the dimensions. All I've found so far is bits and bobs of information, and all sorts of coding methods, part numbers and cross reference charts, but nothing I really understand!
That's why I was thinking of giving the NECJ RM250 needle a try, as it appears it needs a richer pilot jet than the 35. The KTM's tend to use 38 or 40 PJ's
 
Took the 2016 out today…installed the suzuki needle….. NECJ on the 3rd clip, 35 pilot , 172 main running 40:1. Temp was around 23 degrees celcius and riding about 200 mtrs above sea level. Bike still is a tad rich but that makes it easy to ride tight single trail.
Bike only has 100kms on it, there is a slight bog when chopping the throttle on from idle….I need to check my air screw adjustment….but from 1/4 throttle on its definitely pretty crisp and responds well. Once the motor beds in I'm sure the bike will be a little more responsive but pretty happy with it at the moment.
 
Just come back from 2 days trail riding in Devon, and the spluttery running became very evident, as I spent most of the time between idle and 1/8 throttle. 1/4 throttle upwards, and it runs prefectly, and it managed 71 miles before filling up, and still hadn't gone on reserve. A friend who was riding a 2014 KTM300EXC filled 5 Litres to my 7.4 Litres at 71 miles, so it shows his bike is running a lot leaner than mine, and it sounds different - his burbles off load, and runs cleanly as soon as any load is put on, mine splutters and blubbers when loaded, and seems to get slightly worse as the throttle is opened until it hits 1/4 throttle and bang! Off she flies!
So, its the Suzuki NECJ needle to try, and I'm going to check the reeds too.
 
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