• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
    FE = 4st Enduro & FC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

FE/FC 2015 fe501s fuel pump relay location?

i found a ktm wiring diagram and it shows the tip over sensor on the 500 exc but i havent found it on my bike,ill keep looking but not sure if there is one.
 
ok,im about ready to just wait until my apointment at the dealership in 3 weeks.today i put it all back together and started it with the cold start(choke)out and it didnt miss a lick.it does seem to be getting hot really quick to me though and that scares me a little,but i still dont have a clue whats going on.i put some water remover in the gas and tried to cycle it thru.i guess tomorrow ill see what happens.its weird at souch a high idle with the cold start out it ran so good though'
i also found the rollover sensor and it was good
 
i did.it has the ziptie racing filter,i took the small one out and cleaned the ziptie one also tried the stock one again
sux having such an awsome bike just sitting in the garage
 
so last night i put some fuel dryer in the tank.this morning it would idle without stalling but when releasing the clutch in gear it would stall
its also running hot.1 lap around my yard working the clutch to keep it from stalling had the fan on.thermostat could be the heat problem but cant see that making it stall
thinking of checking the thermostat out,but still cluelles to the stalling out
 
You had the ability to do some fault code readings before ? You seem to have checked everything? But still having issues.

I have never once had to pull out or use the high idle knob to set the idle up down or use it for anything ever. I have ridden mine here all winter long and even in the snow at less than 15 degrees at 5000 to 6000+ ft. elevation.

Unless absolutely necessary in your area to meet the licensing requirements. I would ditch everything on the bike that differentiates it from the "S" model that it is, to a standard FE501 if possible. The tip over sensor, any smog related crap, everything. If you haven't already done so. Even the steering lock pin is brittle as hell and I have seen them get easily snapped off on the "S" models and the shattered pieces jammed up inside and ate up the lower triple trees steering stem bearing.

I installed a thermostat delete hose kit within the first few hours of owning my FE501. Not a single problem here in the S.E. AZ. High Desert. I run the red Zipty Coolant also. I don't know where you are or what the climate is there either though.
 
it has been desmogged and they said they put the best map in it so im assuming its the euro map.i woulkd like to get rid of the rollover sensor but it sounds complicated.the ecu has to read 5 volts from it i believe
 
it has been desmogged and they said they put the best map in it so im assuming its the euro map.i woulkd like to get rid of the rollover sensor but it sounds complicated.the ecu has to read 5 volts from it i believe
Best bit of advise I can give you at the moment is to stop chasing your tail and messing with stuff like taking the roll over sensor off and so on!
Go back to where is started, there is some conflicting information here that it started with a wash but now it runs fine with the choke on.
One day it ran ok, then it didn't, What did you do or what happened? The solution is in the answer!
If it runs fine with the choke on it hasn't got enough fuel so is there water in the tank or a problem with fuel supply?
The electrical wiring on these bike is really easy and straightforward, remove the tank and check all the connectors for moisture or corrosion.
 
just thought id let everyone know it is fixed.i feel kinda dumb,it was the ceramic on the sparkplug was cracked.i looked at it one time but guess i thought it was fuel issue so much i didnt pay it much attention.i was going to replace it anyhow but couldnt find one without ordering so i kept my dealer appointment.im just glad its fixed and it didnt cost a lot.plus i learned how to take the rear shock out,rear subframe ,and clean the injector.lol.its really not that hard to work on but missing the simple obvious is a little imbarasing
 
Glad it's repaired. It takes courage to admit one's mistakes and to do it publically stings a bit but shows you have character. Live and learn, it builds wisdom.:thumbsup:
 
I agree with "reveille". Much respect for letting us know what it turned out to be. We all learn from this experience of yours too. Even these single cylinder thumpers can give you fits sometimes even as simple as we all think they are.

I know this story isn't related to your situation and may be off topic but:

I chased a misfire in my fully caged and tubbed street legal '66 Plymouth Belvedere. It runs a wild set of CNC ported "Indy Cylinder Heads" on a cold blooded Big Block Stroked 543" Chrysler Wedge engine. Its not a drag car, I quit drag racing and it will never go down a drag strip.

It would sometimes pop and misfire and it did it for a long time.

My best Buddy and neighbor who is an everyday life long auto mechanic. Whom I drag raced with for 20 years kept telling me it sounds like I had a cracked insulator on one cylinder. He could here it running from his couch or back patio even when I drove it and was clear across town. I never listened to him. He runs big Block Chevy's. His son does the drag race driving duties nowadays, with his own cars.

We both knew it would occasionally wet foul a sparkplug after sitting for a long time just lighting it up without a choke on the big 1000 CFM "Quick Fuel" Carburetor. I would know when it did have a fouled plug before I even drove it out of the driveway and after a warm up, I would just pull all 8 of them and clean the set of plugs and it would be fine. Turned out he was standing right there one day when I was doing a plug change. He looked at all of them and sure enough, I had a cracked insulator. Needless to say I was humbled.

I special ordered, then installed an equivalent set of NGK Iridium plugs in it and it runs perfect. I am now much more careful installing these little mini sized sparkplugs too. Even these Modern "Aluminum Indy heads" run these smaller sparkplugs.

I run the NGK Iridium plugs in just about everything I own nowadays. Lesson learned.

I've offered to let my Buddy and his son many times to go put dirt riding with me and even provide all the riding gear and let them ride my spare bike. They don't want anything to do with riding either one of my dirt bikes. They think I'm nuts still riding at 57.
 
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