• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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2014 Xlite starter delete???

RED310DAN

RED310DAN

Husqvarna
Hey everyone, new member not new to cafe husky. I have a 14 txc310r with maybe 20 hours on it after this years deleware state championship enduro and some single track. Just wondering if anyone has any luck deleting the starter all together due to its particularly problematic sprag bearing/freewheel setup. I also ride a cr250 and I don't mind losing the estart system if it eliminates these costly repairs that I'm currently waiting for parts for. I'm planing on machining a cover with a seal for the starter. Feedback appreciated! Thanks
 
Yes, you can do that. I was running with a handmade cover plate. You can use oem gasket or silicone.


I also have readed here that the oem 2010 TC250 cover plate fits and allows the oiling oriface to still flow. Its the proper way to do the e start removal, just set up like the TC250.

*OEM P/N 8000 A7010
 
Thanks davids70! I'm difinately going to machine the oiling circuit into tho cover if possible and I'm hoping to enjoy more reliability/success without the e-start system. Thanks again
 
Yes.....just pull everything off, put the flywheel back.

Put the 2010 Tc250 cover on and forget about future e-start problems.
 
I have 2 OEM covers, had them in the classifieds, happy to sell each for the cost of a decent 12 pack of brew. PM if interested.. PS the entire starter assy is simple to remove. As stated above install the blank off cover correctly with the oil passage lined up with the case passage oriface simple. I even have one OEM cover gasket (used but reusable)
PPs when I did it I just left the flywheel and sprag installed, simply yanked the worm gear assy out and made sure all else was secure inside the stator cover and put it back together. For me it was a temp operation until I got all my starter stuff new and improved.
 
image.jpg Just milled this out this afternoon , just screwin around and got the bike all back together and I have to say without all the drag on the crank it's never felt faster! I think it could be possible that this setup has been robbing the bike of its full potential since I bought it. Thanks for the heads up fellas!
 
I'm confused.

Why do you need the oil hole in the cover when there is no starter or gears in the bike.

What need to be lubed by the hole?

Seems you could just block off the hole?

BTW, I barely use the E-start on my 250 anyway.

I kick it unless I stall on the trail and have to relight.
 
When removing e-start system, and pulling everything off to put the cover plate, is it possible to remove the flywheel + one way clutch as well, and lock the crown wheel somehow to save weight ?
 
Good question

Why do you need the oil hole in the cover when there is no starter or gears in the bike.

What need to be lubed by the hole?

Seems you could just block off the hole?
Click to expand...

Does the freewheel behind the flywheel need to be removed, or is that just a weight saving measure?
 
The gears have been upgraded, but the basic design is marginal at best.

I have some spare flywheels and key's and when I run out of them I will just take the E-start out.

You don't have to remove the freewheel. if you leave it in it could act like a freewheeling flywheel weight...I'd take it and the sprag out.
 
What specifically is the problem on these '14s? Wondering if decompressor still the cause or something else. Assume they all came with the better hardened parts. Clearly the revised 350 motor was shown with a larger starter and new gearing layout but my gut says the motors are same as came off the line before and assembled to same spec, which for the decompressor was not right for many. Another example maybe where a tech bulletin, not just a whisper in a back room could help owners/dealers. My bike has been a champ since that valve adjustment and always starts 2k miles later, and my reason to wonder what's still going on.
 
I have a 13 and 14 TXC 310 with updated gears. Neither one of them work consistently, but if I hold the button in and kick at the same time, it usually fires right up. It used to frustrate me, but I am over it now because the bike is great other than this in terms of motor and handling.
 
I think the decompressor adjust along with the addition of the EarthX battery has alleviated 99% of my issue starting. Slightly less resistance and slightly more cranking power.
 
Hi guys,
Old thread but same problem!
If anyone has a spare cover or the cad model of it
I would love to get one and get rid of the estarter, which is the only recurrent problem of this bike i had so far (7years)!
(I'm in Europe and will pay shipping :-) ).
 
Ok, I did my own cad model and while waiting for the CNC aluminum version, I printed a TPU version (which is supposed to hold the heat),
surprisingly it worked very well for a 45kms trail today.
if anyone is interested, I shared the model and details on thingverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6220140
 

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I'm toying with the idea of removing starter and putting the cover plate on my TXC310. Is there instructions on how to remove the worm/shaft gear or associated gears that go from starter shaft to flywheel/starter gear?
 

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Ive had three 310s. One 2011 and two 2014s and probably 500 hours together. None of them have had any starter issues. Have I been lucky or is this starter problem really as BIG as it everyone says here?
 
Ive had three 310s. One 2011 and two 2014s and probably 500 hours together. None of them have had any starter issues. Have I been lucky or is this starter problem really as BIG as it everyone says here?
 
Ive had three 310s. One 2011 and two 2014s and probably 500 hours together. None of them have had any starter issues. Have I been lucky or is this starter problem really as BIG as it everyone says here?
 
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