• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2014 WR300 changes

G

GhostRider32

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi all,

New guy here looking at a 2014 WR300. I don't have any experience with Husky but have always heard that they are good bikes. I looked through several pages and didn't find an answer so I wanted to ask.

Are there any differences between the 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 WR300 2 strokes? I have found several reviews on the 2011 and 2012 models but not too much on the 13 and 14 models.

I ask because Rekluse shows a EXP for the 1999 through the 2012 WR300 but not for the 2013 and 2014. If the bikes are the same then Rekluse probably hasn't updated their website.

How adjustable is the suspension? I don't know anything about the Sach's rear shock. Are they generally good? How about the KYB forks?

Looking to buy soon so thanks for any help given.
 
same bike forever some changes in what suspension components are used thats it. good solid reliable machine.
 
like he said ^
Different graphics
KYB forks are decent- very tuneable
Sachs shock is ok...Get it sorted at a suspension place. I had mine serviced after 25 hours or so and it had the oil and nitrogen mixed together. Inner seal was spent. I had the shock shortened as well. Ohlins spacers will work in the Sachs shock to shorten the shock. I am a hair under 6' and the bike was a little too tall.
Until the suspension is worn in, it will feel super stiff. I went up on spring stiffness on the front and had it revalved also.
Where are you? East coast?
 
I am in Texas. I'm 6 ft and weigh 250. My main concerns are that the clutch hasn't changed and the Rekluse will work and that I can get the Sachs shock revalved for me. Just to verify, the clutch is the same on the 2014 as the 2012 so I will be able to use a recluse? Correct. Not to sound dense but it's a lot of money to spend it I can't get a recluse.
 
Very good solid bikes. The Rekluse should fit, no changes there i know of. Not the lightest or best handling 250 2 stroke but very good bike with a strong long lasting motor.
 
K5PL5 said:
like he said ^
Different graphics
KYB forks are decent- very tuneable
Sachs shock is ok...Get it sorted at a suspension place. I had mine serviced after 25 hours or so and it had the oil and nitrogen mixed together. Inner seal was spent. I had the shock shortened as well. Ohlins spacers will work in the Sachs shock to shorten the shock. I am a hair under 6' and the bike was a little too tall.
Until the suspension is worn in, it will feel super stiff. I went up on spring stiffness on the front and had it revalved also.
Where are you? East coast?
Click to expand...
Hey K5PL5, I was thinking of shortening my shock too. I'm 5'11" with a 32" inseam. Sometimes my WR is a little top heavy and wobbly did the shorter shock give more stability and what did you do with the forks?
454X.
 
I had the 13' and have the 14' exact same everything..... I don't think anything other than cosmetic stuff changed the last few years and i think 10' is when they went to kyb suspension. I pull every bearing and add grease look for anything that could rub and loc-tite everything you'll have one heck of a solid power full machine!
 
454x said:
Hey K5PL5, I was thinking of shortening my shock too. I'm 5'11" with a 32" inseam. Sometimes my WR is a little top heavy and wobbly did the shorter shock give more stability and what did you do with the forks?
454X.
Click to expand...
I'm 5'10 and had Hall's lower mine by 3/4" and revalve it then i shaved a 1/2" out of the seat so I could still clear logs and rocks OK.
 
454x said:
Hey K5PL5, I was thinking of shortening my shock too. I'm 5'11" with a 32" inseam. Sometimes my WR is a little top heavy and wobbly did the shorter shock give more stability and what did you do with the forks?
454X.
Click to expand...
I slid the forks up thru the triples. Was just enough to work with the shock being shortened. It took 1" inch out of my seat height. Call any reputable suspension place. They can shorten the extension of the shock with Ohlins spacer(s). With a revalve and being a little lower, I was able to pick up a lot more speed thru the rocks. Not too drastic that Im bottoming out or hitting rocks with the skidplate. The worst part of the suspension for me when stock was the forks. The seemed to be all over the place and never planted.
 
Check your plastic flap/mudguard thing on the back. Where it rubs the swingarm. If it has two ridges on the side that touches the swingarm, shave them off. They can actually wear a hole thru your swingarm over time.
I also drilled and installed an elbow (a KTM part) in the stator cover and ran a vent hose up under the gas tank with a piece of skidplate foam ziptied on for a filter. If you do this mod, seal the bottom of the stator cover with some silicone sealant. That "vent hole" lets dirt and water in. Some guys run a little bit of light oil inside there as well.
Also, I ran vent hoses into the airbox from the carburetur venturis so they dont suck in water when crossing huge deep puddles and what not. Ziptied foam filters on those as well.
If youre up for a little bit of work, take the clutch actuator out of the motor photo 4.JPGphoto 5.JPG and add 5mm length to it. It will soften the clutch pull a little bit. Get a Motion Pro "Terminator" clutch cable as well. Stock cable is bunk.
 
Thanks for all of the replies guys. It looks like I will be buying one. As for the seat, is it a good seat or like a rock? I do a moderate amount of sitting at times and don't want it to be a rock. I looked at some pictures and the seat looked thin but pictures can be deceiving.

If anyone here can compare the two, I currently ride a 03 KX 250 that was revalved and sprung for my weight with a recluse but I still have the stock seat. Is it hard like that?
 
Or buy this extention from a 80's yz off eBay...
 

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GhostRider32 said:
How adjustable is the suspension? I don't know anything about the Sach's rear shock. Are they generally good? How about the KYB forks?
Click to expand...

The suspension has the same amount of adjustability as everything else on MX bikes since about 2000. These are the same forks used on early 2000's KXs, and very similar to forks used on quite a few other bikes. The factory valving is softer than a pure MX bike, but a lot of guys (myself included) go even softer on the valving for woods work. The Sachs shock is a good quality unit in my opinion, I think it's comparable to anything else out there. I opened mine up for a revalve after about 60 hours and all of the seals looked great (guess I'm not as hard on my stuff as Kurt, probably because I'm slower!).

There are a bunch of "just got a WR300, help me pimp it out" threads on this forum, dig around. For example:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/just-bought-2013-wr300-setup.37649/
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/my-new-wr300.36388/
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/first-wr300.31049/

https://www.google.com/#q=site:cafehusky.com+wr300+mods
 
I noticed the shock turned into a pogo stick all of a sudden while riding some grass track stuff with a lot of stutter bumps. Took it to Evan at Solid and first thing he did was pull the shrader valve cap off and depressed the nozzle. Sprayed oil AND nitrogen out. The other issue with the Sachs shock is the resorvoir body material. I asked him about going with the resorvoir bladder like some tuners use and he said, realistically, the oil starts going thru the bladder by osmosis relatively in the same amount of time that it takes for a shock to need servicing. Not worth it in my eyes, as I get the suspension serviced every year. BTW, if any of you guys/girls experience a feeling in the back end like I did but the bike feels fine when you get off and do the "showroom floor" shock check, then you may have oil in your gas (and no im not talking about your gas tank haha).
 
K5PL5 said:
I noticed the shock turned into a pogo stick all of a sudden while riding some grass track stuff with a lot of stutter bumps. Took it to Evan at Solid and first thing he did was pull the shrader valve cap off and depressed the nozzle. Sprayed oil AND nitrogen out. The other issue with the Sachs shock is the resorvoir body material. I asked him about going with the resorvoir bladder like some tuners use and he said, realistically, the oil starts going thru the bladder by osmosis relatively in the same amount of time that it takes for a shock to need servicing. Not worth it in my eyes, as I get the suspension serviced every year. BTW, if any of you guys/girls experience a feeling in the back end like I did but the bike feels fine when you get off and do the "showroom floor" shock check, then you may have oil in your gas (and no im not talking about your gas tank haha).
Click to expand...


Yeah, it all makes sense. It's just crazy that you wore that thing out so fast! Maybe all the fast rock riding?

My brother and I just rebuilt the Sachs shock in his 2000 TE410; those have the same o-ring piston design, and the thing still had full nitrogen charge and there was no leakage past the o-ring! Crazy, bike is like 15 years old!
 
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