• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2014 TE310R Kayaba... WTF do I have?

Trenchcoat85

Trenchcoat85

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Ok... first let me confess a weakness: I am NOT a suspension expert. I know when it's right, but rarely can I get there from here. (and when it's right: no one gets to touch it). Please let me set up my simple question with some long-winded details:

In my (48!?) years of riding, suspension work has been a mystery to me. Fast forward to October 2014 when I pick up my sweet TE310R. It's totally perfect (well, 'cept it has 22hp, a tranny ratio spread made for MXGP, AND: SX suspension that Chad would find a bit too stiff).

I weigh 230lbs geared up, maybe more. So actually I lived with the suspension and did fine. This year, I decided to lighten up the compression & rebound damping, so on both sides I backed 'em off 1 click each (top & bottom). Later, I did the same for the shock also. My suspension is fantastic now.

I knew beforehand that the TE's compression adjustment was (supposedly) on the bottom, while the TC's & TXC's were on the top.

A couple of weeks afterwards, I was looking in the "work shop manual"- which is the 2013 manual... no 2014 manual was produced (only a parts manual) and noticed that the rebound adjuster for the TE was nothing like mine (mine uses a screwdriver, not an allen) but the top adjuster is the same. Actually my lower adjuster looks like the adjuster on the TC.

So I go to the 2014 parts manual- and it looks like maybe my compression adjuster is on top and the rebound is on the bottom, like on the non-USA TEs. The only thing that's different that I see between the TC & TE is that the spring rate is .44kg/mm (well, 4.4Nm/mm- which seems way light to me) and the cartridge has a different part number.

In the 2013 parts manual, the fork internals are way different between the models and the TEs are the same world-wide, no USA specific forks.

2013 parts manual pg 76 TE
2014 parts manual pg 78 TE USA, pg 82- world


Can anybody confirm for me that on my 2014 the rebound adjustment is on the bottom and the compression is on the top- like the TCs and TXCs; and not like previous TE310Rs? Is there any way to externally ID the forks?

I really do not wanna be screwing around and find out I'm working on the rebound when I thought I was tweaking the compression.

here's a pic of the bottom of my forks, using a mirror:

IMG_9764.JPG
 
Easiest way to determine if you have KYB open or closed chamber forks is to look at the top cap...

Check the pic out below...

The 2013 TE310R forks are KYB open chamber (open bath)
I think the 2014 TE310R (in Australia) were KYB closed chamber like the TXC's and TC's

Closed chamber has compression on top and rebound on bottom
Open chamber has compression on bottom and rebound on top

The video below is a step by step "how to" change forks seals on Husky KYB open chamber forks. It's quite informative and also quickly discusses the difference between the open and closed chamber forks. Watch it from about 5:00 just for the open vs closed bit...

I hope that helps...

fork-cap.jpg




View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2kwV98lZ4Y
 
Thanks- that does help. Now I know I'm not hallucinating. OTOH, I still am not totally positive if I have an open or closed cartridge- I'm thinking open.

My top cap is kinda a cross between the upper middle two and the one on the right

IMG_9988.JPG

I'm feel reasonably confident that I have an open cartridge system (those forks in the vid were very close to mine)- different, but similar, to the 2013's. I don't know why my bottom (rebound?) adjuster looks like a TC's but what the hell. I can't believe I have .44 springs like the world model, but .46 springs sounds right- which the USA models have, apparently.

I'm pretty damn happy with my suspension right now- it's pretty plush, so hopefully I won't hafta adjust it anymore. Because I'm still confused about which end is compression and which end is rebound.

That's a great video Boogie, thanks!
 
They're open chamber mate and exactly the same as the forks in the video... Now when you need to change a fork seal, you have no excuse but to (follow the vid and) do it yourself :)

Bottom compression adjustment is done by a flat screwdriver.
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
Thanks- that does help. Now I know I'm not hallucinating. OTOH, I still am not totally positive if I have an open or closed cartridge- I'm thinking open.

My top cap is kinda a cross between the upper middle two and the one on the right

View attachment 66967

I'm feel reasonably confident that I have an open cartridge system (those forks in the vid were very close to mine)- different, but similar, to the 2013's. I don't know why my bottom (rebound?) adjuster looks like a TC's but what the hell. I can't believe I have .44 springs like the world model, but .46 springs sounds right- which the USA models have, apparently.

I'm pretty damn happy with my suspension right now- it's pretty plush, so hopefully I won't hafta adjust it anymore. Because I'm still confused about which end is compression and which end is rebound.

That's a great video Boogie, thanks!
Click to expand...

If you want to be 100% certain you can turn your top adjusters all of the way clockwise and see what the forks do when you push down on them. If they go down real slow, the top is compression. If they go down the same as before but return slowly, then the top is rebound. It takes 2 minutes to do.
 
The manual for the 13 US model specified an allen wrench but is a slotted head. The 13 has open bath and bottom compression adjuster (at least I assumed so when I lowered compression 1 click). I believe the 14 final edition bikes were changed to closed chamber forks. That was in the promotional stuff so not sure if that is accurate or not.
 
Well, shoot- Johnrg... you've reduced my confidence in my fork id (I was about 90% sure that I had open cartridge thanks to boogie's vid; now I'm about 70%). OTOH, if you run across that promotional info again, please LMK. And I'm assuming you have the same TC-type screw adjuster at the bottom of your '13 forks (adjusted with a straight screwdriver).

I appreciate your input. I thought my '14 was weird because it was assembled at the end of the transition to KTM, and they may have been sweeping the factory floor for parts. Now, knowing your bike is different from the manual (that was written for your bike) it may just be an Italian thing.

letitsnow, thanx! that test makes total sense and is super-simple.

My suspension is just about perfect right now, but now I know there's a quick test to figure out which end is which, if I ever need to adjust my suspension again.
 
At 230 lbs, the reason the suspension felt stiff is because you are too heavy for the stock springs and are riding way down in the travel, thus the harsh stiff feeling. Get proper springs for your weight and play with the clickers and you'll be a happy camper. Or send em off for a re valve and have them put the proper springs in then.
 
Here is a prior thread regarding this... http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/txc-te-310r-changes-by-year.37062/

'14s were supposed to get the fancy forks though some seemed to like the open chamber better and some thought maybe not all the 14's had them. In any case the manual was incorrect for my fork bottoms but assuming they were open chamber also assumed my adjustments were correct.

Here is a promo on the 14 but like all of them it's plain wrong since it promotes Keihin and a new velocity stack when that stuff is on the '13s.http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles...sqvarna/2014-husqvarna-te-310-r-ar163145.html

Not sure what is the easiest way to figure it out except maybe backing out the adjusters you assume are compression and seeing what happens. Easy enough to count the clicks so not to lose where you are set.
 
Thanks for the links, Johnrg; I see the confusion was apparent a year before I got mine.

I like letitsnow's test (turning the top one all the way in on both sides)- pretty simple and straight-forward.
 
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