• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2014 Husqvarna Terra 650 Ews / Kill Switch

M

Miroslav

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi there.
I attempted to add LED lights on my 2014 Husqvarna TR650. I mounted the lights, routed the wires, disconnected the battery, connected new lights wires to the battery, reconnected the battery, and the bike is dead. Before that, it was working fine. I do not think I shortened anything, but it is possible. The bike just shows EWS code the the red triangle when the ignition is turned on, and will not start. I checked the fuses, the general fuse and the general 30A one and 8 auxiliary fuses. They all look ok. I measured resistance across each fuse and it was 1-1.2 ohm. I purchased GS-911 tool, but it will not establish connection with the bike diagnostic port. It says that the kill switch is not on, but it is on. I disconnected the kill switch harness connector, and measured resistance when the switch is open, it showed open circle. When the switch was closed (red button out), it showed 0.8 ohm, so the switch itself is probably ok.
Before I did any of this I took it to the KTM / Husqvarna dealership. They said that that they do not know much about these bikes, rightfully so, as this is a mostly BMW bike, but they did check it briefly (10 minutes) and could not resolve the issue. To do that, it took them 3 weeks. They said they needed more time for it, they need to get the info from KTM / Husqvarna headquarters, and that they would not be able to look at the bike before 4 more weeks. So, I took it home, and attempted to fix it myself, so far unsuccessfully. This bike also had recalled ECU replaced in 2017. It is just too bad that BMW doesn't want to cure there abandoned child. If there is anyone out there on this planet who could help, please, please.
Thanks infinitely,
Miroslav
 
it's known that LED lights mounted too close to the ignition lock can interfere with the immobilizer. There's a chip in the key fob and an antenna around the ignition lock to read the chip. I'd disconnect the LED lights and see if that helps. If you search the forum for LED lights you'll find threads about this issue.
 
oh, the GS911 kill switch message is normal. Not sure why they don't fix it. Just click it away and it should connect.
 
CarstenB said:
it's known that LED lights mounted too close to the ignition lock can interfere with the immobilizer. There's a chip in the key fob and an antenna around the ignition lock to read the chip. I'd disconnect the LED lights and see if that helps. If you search the forum for LED lights you'll find threads about this issue.
Click to expand...

^^ this.
Mine does it as well, albeit only when I have the LEDs turned on when I turn the key. Disconnect the auxiliary lights and if that works reroute the wiring as far away from the ring antenna and its wiring as possible.
 
CarstenB said:
oh, the GS911 kill switch message is normal. Not sure why they don't fix it. Just click it away and it should connect.
Click to expand...

I am not able to click it away. It gives an error, attempting to connect to this controller timed out. And it says the error is possibly due to kill switch not being on RUN.
 
CarstenB said:
it's known that LED lights mounted too close to the ignition lock can interfere with the immobilizer. There's a chip in the key fob and an antenna around the ignition lock to read the chip. I'd disconnect the LED lights and see if that helps. If you search the forum for LED lights you'll find threads about this issue.
Click to expand...

I took the LED lights, wires, all off. Still same problem.
 
you may be able to get rid of the EWS error by disconnecting the battery for an hour or so. Worked for me once. If that doesn't help you may have a more serious issue. What do you mean with " I do not think I shortened anything, but it is possible" It's easy to fry the ECU but i'd assume that you noticed if that happened. If you have the bike on the side stand it has to be in neutral for the GS911 to establish communication but could well be that the GS911 message is related to the EWS fault.
 
Hi there;
Thank you all for the responses. I tried everything what I could think of, including what you guys suggested. Thanks for that. Got the service manual, studied parts, pieces and wiring diagrams. I checked for lose wires, checked relays, checked the continuity of the wires from the kill switch, start button all the way to the ECU connector, checked the ECU ground connection to the engine ground bolt. All checked out OK. Tried to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and following the steps from one of the links (ignition key 5s, turn throttle 3 times, ignition, did not change anything). I feel that when I disconnected the battery the first time, before I tried to connect the LED lights, it produced the problem, it might have done something with what sounds like very fragile software on the ECU. This ECU was supposedly already serviced, and reprogrammed, in 2017, for the recall. Even investing $450 in the GS 911 did not help. It is just a shame that this what should be a great bike, made by BMW turned into a nightmare. I am an engineer myself, and I completely realize how bad car, motorcycle and any machine design we can produce. Like having to disassemble the entire front part of the car (bumper, grill,....), just to be able to get to the low / high beam light bulb to replace it. Or having a motorcycle, or a car dead for months after just disconnecting a battery. Shame on us engineers. And the most shameful thing is that BMW does not want to service these bikes, and they made it. Good luck you all unlucky owners of it, including myself. 100% regret buying this bike last year. And also would be hesitant to sell it to someone, even after disclosing of all the details of my wonderful experience. I may have to take it back to a dealership who told me they can't work on it for 4 weeks, but the bike has to be in their shop to keep it's turn in the 50 bikes que who are in front of mine and they have to work on them first. Problem still unsolved. I may just give it someone, and never again get anything that has any BMW sign on it.
Cheers.
 
Confirm the dealer has a suitable OBD2 adapter. My local dealer used not having an approved Husqvarna adapter as an excuse not to track down an abs error.
They are available from Husqvarna /KTM but may not want to pay for it.
 
Hello there again. I have discovered a major break trhu for my sick TR650. I connected the case of the ECU with the frame of the bike, basically made a ground strap for the ECU. Turned the ignition on, everything is green, cluster came alive, showing green light, N, mileage, all as you would expected. The GS-911 connected perfectly as well. Cleared all fault codes, no new codes found, tested every piece of the ECU (BMSE) function, all works. The only message was for the fuel injector 2, which I think does not apply for TR650. All good, except the bike still doesn't start. I feel I am close to getting it started, hopefully. Any suggestion, let me know!
What might have happened, the ground pin on the ECU may be damaged, so ground strap might substitute for it.

There is a link below that gives a nice description about similar issue. It also has a document that describes the potential issue with the TR 650 ECU being exposed and so vulnerable to short circuiting.


Not giving up on my TR 650.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ecu-issues-ground-strap.86512/
 

Attachments

I found the ground pin on my ECU was damaged when I split the case apart. When you say it will not start do you mean it wont crank or it would crank but not fire? If it's not cranking then I check the kill switch, clutch switch, side stand switch and make sure it's in neutral. If it cranks but will not start I would start with charging the battery.
 
I might have damaged ground pin too. I am wondering if the ground pin is only damaged, would the bike still work with the ground strap instead!
 
You might try moving your ground strap from the frame to the negative battery post. Also I would check the battery voltage as you are trying to start it, if there's no change then something is keeping the starter relay from engaging. If you go back to the thread where you got the ground strap info, further down there are files for the electric prints for the bike.
 
all right. I know the battery is fully charged. I will try to monitor it as I press Start button. I will try moving the adding another connection with the negative battery post, and check the starter relay and the fuses. Thanks so much for the help.
 
Since it's too hot to do anything outside today I thought I would take the time to try to explain the starter circuit as best as I can. Keep in mind the ECU plays a part in this. Positive voltage (12 vdc) from the battery is applied to the 30 amp fuse on the starter solenoid relay. From there it's applied to the ignition switch and when the ignition switch is in the on position then you will have 12 vdc to Fuse 1. If fuse 1 is good then you will have 12 vdc at the coil of the starter solenoid relay. The other side of the starter relay solenoid is connected to the ECU, pin M2, which I believe is a sinking output. When the output is turned on by the ECU that completes the circuit for the starter solenoid which then applies 12 vdc through the starter relay solenoid contact through the 30 amp fuse to the starter motor.

With the bike in neutral and the kill switch disengaged when you push the start button this connects signal ground, pin F4 of the ECU , to the start input, pin C3 of the ECU. This causes pin M2 of the ECU to go low, turn on, which engages the starter solenoid and that supplies 12 vdc to the starter motor. The wire colors on the 4 pin connector to the starter solenoid relay I think are green/black for the 12 vdc from the ignition switch and brown/violet for the sink output from the ECU, pin M2. Clear as mud I know.
 
Miroslav, don't keep us hanging dude. Please detail your fix so that this thread will be a useful resource for anyone searching in the future.
 
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