machine builder
Husqvarna
B Class
Item #32 is superseded by 8539628 and 8539629.
I believe they improved the quality of the parts in the recall.
ahhh, I see, great news, made them harder I hope, thanks again.
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Item #32 is superseded by 8539628 and 8539629.
I believe they improved the quality of the parts in the recall.
Does this starter issue go back to the 2011 te310 as well? Same parts?
I bought mine from Halls Cycles a few months ago. I think they may have their own stockpile.
Submit an enquiry at https://www.halls-cycles.com/send-us-a-email--contact and someone will let you know if they have any.
That's good news!
Make sure that you check the flywheel woodruff key is not sheared (and lap the flywheel/crank before re-installation) and also check the small woodruff key on the worm gear drive gear.
ahh ok, very good advice, Ill do that and check it carefully . Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it. This forum is awesome
UPDATE: just got my new starter gear set. They look great. Now my real problem is my rotor is worn from the sprag clutch. I cant find one anywhere.
part # 8000-H7695
Can you please post up a photo of the rotor?
Can you please post up a photo of the rotor?
It looks like the rotor/flywheel is NLA. Maybe check with Halls to see if they have stock.
Maybe try decreasing grit sizes of wet and dry emery cloth to refinish the surface. I've replaced a few sprag clutches and had no further issues doing this. Failing that you could see if SKF make a Speedi-Sleeve in the size you need.
This also happened with Kawasaki Kokusan flywheels/sprags, even the slightest imperfections on the inside of that flywheel sprag clutch mating surface and the whole starter assembly function goes to crap. Back in the day I replaced everything, luckily my dealer did all the paperwork and I got all my replacement parts.
Sometimes the "waves" imperfections from the sprag rollers are barely visible to the eye or even to the fingernail. It's like a zero tolerance for anything deal. I remeber the word was that the flywheels were tempered incorrectly and sprag rollers were harder and wore the rotor/flywheel.
The sprag doesn't move inside the flywheel so I would clean up the inside surface of the flywheel, install a new sprag clutch and go riding. The damage is usually due to metal filings from the ring gear getting between the pawls and the contact points.
The sprag slips and grabs on the starter ring/spur gear. This inner surface gets more wear and you have a new ring gear to install.
I measured a new sprag clutch and it's 62.5mm OD. The closest SKF Speedi-Sleeves are 62mm or 63.22 so not close enough. If you have access to a lathe you could dress up the finish of the flywheel. The pawls of the sprag clutch can rotate a fair way so a small increase in flywheel ID shouldn't matter however you don't want the sprag assembly to be loose. Maybe machine a few mm out of the flywheel and make your own 2-3mm sleeve and glue it in with Loctite 638 to bring it back to OEM dimensions. You mentioned spray welding but the heat may kill the permanent magnets for the stator (unless you can remove them).
Ok. Do you have access to a lathe? I'm guessing so with your handle "machine builder"...