• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

2013 TE511 power up?! New owner any help appreciated!

TITO

TITO

Husqvarna
AA Class
I just bought a 2013 TE511. I am wondering what things are a must do to these bikes. i have done as much research as possible but most stuff I find is for 11-12. Not sure if it differs which is why i am asking. I asked dealer about power up and said new bikes don't come w it. I have looked and looked online and can't find it. What do i need for power up and do I need to remove o2 sensor? I have keihn fuel injection i read somewhere that matters? So far i am lo
 
sorry got cut off and dont know how to edit post on iphone. so far i am looking at fmf slip on power up and what else do you reccomend? Does the valve breather mod apply to 13 models as well? Should i get a pcv ? thanks Sorry for all the noob questions!
 
Fish around under the seat by the ECU and there is an empty connector in there. Get a piece of stiff wire, thermostat wire, like that, and plug it into the clip. That will put the bike into 'race map2' mode.

Then just spend some time on the bike and see how it is before worrying too much about what to change on it.
 
danny318 said:
Fish around under the seat by the ECU and there is an empty connector in there. Get a piece of stiff wire, thermostat wire, like that, and plug it into the clip. That will put the bike into 'race map2' mode.

Then just spend some time on the bike and see how it is before worrying too much about what to change on it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice! How about exhaust is this a must on 13s? and valve cover breather mod? Thanks!
 
i got it into race map II I dont feel a lot of difference yet. Do i need to take out o2 and plug it? does that make a diff? any advice helps!
 
I did notice it no longer stalls at lower RPMs. Power wise it still feels like it lacks some..again thanks sorry for noob questions
 
TITO said:
Thanks for the advice! How about exhaust is this a must on 13s? and valve cover breather mod? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Yeah I mean you've probably read the threads. Nothing is a must but most agree to do something with the exhaust and with the valve cover breather.

For the exhaust, if you're a do it yourselfer, you should just take the cat out of the stock muffler. It helps out a lot and it stays nice and quiet.

Also everyone agrees having a dealer (or ziptyracing) load bmw map#3 onto your ECU is the best bang for the buck mod you can do. It stops any flame out lean condition etc. Its only 40 bucks to have zipty do it.
 
danny318 said:
Yeah I mean you've probably read the threads. Nothing is a must but most agree to do something with the exhaust and with the valve cover breather.

For the exhaust, if you're a do it yourselfer, you should just take the cat out of the stock muffler. It helps out a lot and it stays nice and quiet.

Also everyone agrees having a dealer (or ziptyracing) load bmw map#3 onto your ECU is the best bang for the buck mod you can do. It stops any flame out lean condition etc. Its only 40 bucks to have zipty do it.
Click to expand...

I would love to send my ecu to get flashed...just would hate to stay w/o bike but maybe I will do most mods at once. I am trying to find more info on how to decat stock muffler.. again thanks!
 
Mikepod said:
"I am trying to find more info on how to decat stock muffler."

I'd like that info also!!!
Click to expand...

So I would not recommend decatting the muffler unless you have experience with this stuff. I gave up after 3 and a half hours. My FMF PC4 comes in tomorrow so it's not a big deal for me. I would definitely not recommend you doing it, unless you have an extra laying around. Not as simple as it sounds. If you do try I would recommend using 3/16 drill bit, and making sure you get the rivets right on the center other wise you will end up with a big or in my case double holes. If the cap does not come off easily that means the rivets are still stuck. I had that issue. Also cutting the actual cat seems like a PITA! I gave up after some time. Too dangerous for me!

PS. Also take into consideration the cost. I did not have the tools, and I ended up spending 150 dollars just for the stuff I needed. Which is just a few drill bits, drill, saw, rivets, and rivet puncher. I had an cordless drill which wasn't cutting it so I purchased an electric drill, and the cheapest saw I found was 60. Along w blades, drill bits and other stuff I was in about 150. An FMF PC4 goes as cheap as 240.00...so was it worth it for me ? No, but curiosity got the best of me!
 
Yeah I mean its not a complicated job, but it is a pain. I used a drill press for the rivets and it was still tough. An angle grinder with a cut off wheel cut through the cat easy enough. Still recommend it, its worth the trouble if you want the performance gain without the noise.
 
Change the Front or rear sprocket. I changed the front from a 15 to a 14. Not an incredible difference, but noticeable in the tight woods. Not always feathering the clutch. I think we calculated about an 8% lower gearing. Didn't have to do anything to the chain. Also running race map 2 with the simple jumper addition.
 
I still run the stock can on my '11. Just in case the CARB weenies try smogging anything with a spark plug, I'm going to leave it alone. Since my ECU is one of the locked ones, I won't bother buying the FMF until I can also get a Power Commander. Adding extra points of failure isn't my favorite thing to do, but its only $50 more than buying a new ECU that ZipTy can reflash. However I have faith that one day soon Tinken will crack the code on the locked units.
 
danny318 said:
Yeah I mean you've probably read the threads. Nothing is a must but most agree to do something with the exhaust and with the valve cover breather.

For the exhaust, if you're a do it yourselfer, you should just take the cat out of the stock muffler. It helps out a lot and it stays nice and quiet.

Also everyone agrees having a dealer (or ziptyracing) load bmw map#3 onto your ECU is the best bang for the buck mod you can do. It stops any flame out lean condition etc. Its only 40 bucks to have zipty do it.
Click to expand...

Whats the difference between Race Map 2 and the BMW map#3?
 
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