• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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2013 TE449, clutch "drag"

Martillo Dave

Martillo Dave

Husqvarna
A Class
When my bike is in neutral, it rolls just fine without any "drag" whatsoever. If I have it in gear, pull in the clutch and try to move the bike, it rolls but is much harder to move. There is some pretty significant "drag". Is this a characteristic of a hydraulic clutch? Something that needs attention? Thanks!
 
I have the samer problem and believe it's normal. I also have a little difficulty finding neutral when the bike is running.

You can try a lighter oil like 0w40 and try bleeding the clutch to see that helps.
 
I've been having trouble with this also. Makes finding neutral very hard. Also makes me hit neutral when I dont want to.

What oil and quantity are you running?
 
Thanks for the responses. Yes, finding neutral is challenging. I'm actually not sure what oil I'm using. I haven't replaced what came with the bike as I've only had it a month. Good to know I'm not alone!
 
No, you're still alone. Nobody seems to care about these bikes anymore unfortunately. Just hoping my crankshaft doesn't ever fail, they are all gone apparently.
 
try the mobil 1 full syn 0w-40 European car blend, will help on neutral issues and drag. change oil about every 300-500 miles max. only fill 1000-1100 ml/cc half way on sight glass....after about 1500 miles and its broken in it gets better....
 
Euro formula 0-40 didn't help mine, and I've got almost 2000 miles. I also sanded my clutch plates to make sure no burrs or over-thick. They measured out correctly.

What's the difference between Euro formula and regular formula?
 
Naw your not alone, just a few of the die hard extremely knowledgeable people don't frequent this site anymore. Since being sold to KTM and the red heads not being offered any longer theres just a bit less interest now. I had 2 2013 bikes the te449 and te511 once sorted out they ran great and never had a problem. IMO a few upgrades are necessary to make them a very strong reliable bike but once sorted you should be good to go.

run the thinner oil, mobil 1 0w-40 full syn European car formula 1000-1100 ml/cc change at 300-500 miles and check tube filters next to drain plug
take off the smog junk and cap off the head opening
set to at least map 2 or reflash to map 3
fmf has a great pipe for it but get the quiet core insert if your concerned about loudness
throw away the stock gas cap and get an all aluminum one
I set both my brass screws at 4-5 turns out from all the way in and did the tps reset made a huge difference on flameouts
don't over fill gas tank it will over flow out the tube in front of the rear tire and make sure both vents are open on bottom of your fuel tanks

Just my opinions of course but made my bikes scream with zero issues...I had the oil issue in the air box until I started running 1000-1100 ml of oil, after about 1500 miles at that oil level I never had the problem again and both were supermoto on street WOT alot
 
Norma, have you tried Motosport.com for a crankshaft? Seems like they have most OEM parts for this bike. Their site says 3-6 days for a crankshaft (???).
 
There's a thread from a year or so back on setting up the clutch pack free clearances.
Husqvarna show the shims but you can't buy them.
The BMW G450X shim set is the same part and you can set it up using those.

Run light motorcycle specific oil.

These engines also are more susceptible to drag as the clutch is directly on the crank, not geared down through the primary gears and on the transmission like most others.
 
I ride my 2013 TE449 through some really tight single track. My riding style is to leave the bike in 2nd and clutch it through the tight sections. After 10-15 minutes of this, I lose the ability to disengage the clutch fully. It constantly drags and heats up the fluid in the slave cylinder making the lever feel mushy. I have upgraded to DOT5 fluid and ARC levers in an attempt to get more travel on the master cylinder. I have also inspected and measured the clutch stack and it seems to be in spec at 31.4 mm. The bike only has 1600 miles on it and this condition seems to be getting worse. I would think that the clutch drag would decrease with wear. I have bled the clutch multiple times, but have never gotten any air out of it. I would consider buying shims to try to decrease the stack thickness, but only thicker than stock shims are listed in the service data in this thread. I am running Mobil1, 10w40. I guess the next thing to do is change the oil to 0w40 and give it another try. I also saw a suggestion to change the master cylinder to one with a larger bore, to increase the throw of the slave. I'm not sure that this will work, I'm pretty sure the master and slave are a matched set and should achieve full travel. If so, the clutch shim and the lever are the only available adjustments. Has anyone on here "fixed" this problem? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm getting tired of fighting the bike through the tight stuff.
 
Mike, surprising how much difference adding a tooth or 2 to the rear sprocket will make or go big with 1 smaller up front. Sounds to me like you're over working your clutch, may need to adjust riding style to suit the bike.
Also, Rekluse is brilliant in the tight woods on a big bore. Now that I'm used to the 300 w/EXP 2 I won't be going back.
:cheers:
 
EFM does make an auto clutch for the Kymco engine though. Its a common install for the G450s and the 449/511s. However the lever and manual override of the Clutch is no longer able to be used. So several people who have done this have used the 449/511s Hydraulic clutch lever as a master cylinder to make it into a LHRB.
 
NCSteve said:
Mike, surprising how much difference adding a tooth or 2 to the rear sprocket will make or go big with 1 smaller up front. Sounds to me like you're over working your clutch, may need to adjust riding style to suit the bike.
Also, Rekluse is brilliant in the tight woods on a big bore. Now that I'm used to the 300 w/EXP 2 I won't be going back.
:cheers:
Click to expand...
NCSteve,
Thank you for your reply. I dual sport this bike, so a Rekluse style clutch doesn't appeal to me. I agree that I am working the clutch hard, but believe that the extra friction from clutch drag when the lever is held in, is making the problem worse. Even when road riding, I have to find neutral before coming to a complete stop, or it will not go into neutral at all. If I don't put it in neutral at a stop light, the bike will creep forward with the clutch lever held to the grip. I bought this bike new, to ride dual sport events. This was the fifth year I've ridden the same event on the same bike. I have a clutch system problem just like the other folks on this thread. I am just hoping someone fixed theirs and will share what they found.
 
I looked up the EFM auto clutch. It's 700 bucks and you have to ship your clutch pack to them so they can build it and send it to you. I've ridden bikes with clutches since I was 5 years old. That's 43 years! I'm not ready to give up on the clutch yet.
 
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