• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2013 TE310R Velocity stack

SoCalHuskyRider said:
If anyone is still struggling with their 2013 TE310R I had similar issues so I spent a weekend testing. I was very disappointed with the way it ran as delivered by the dealer. I would make one change then test the results. Below is what worked for me. She runs great now, pulls strong off the bottom and revs out nicely. No flame outs. No hesitation. No restricted power.

I ride exclusively in the dirt but need a plate to connect trails.

1. Removed the restrictive air filter cage and replace it with one from the TXC.
2. Removed the mesh backfire screen from the air filter cage.
3. Removed the red velocity stack (Bored out the restricted end of the velocity stack but it still ran better without it).
4. Had the ECU re-flashed with the "Race" settings. Note: according to my dealer there are 3 setting for the 2013 model. Standard, Race, Race with modified exhaust.
5. Removed the canister and blocked off the fitting on the intake manifold.
6. O2 sensor is still in place and attached. It ran poorly when I disconnected it.
7. No changes to the exhaust system yet. It's running so good I'm not sure if I will make any changes.
8. No throttle adjustments have been necessary. I don't believe that this year had a throttle restrictor.

My two cents. Good luck!
Click to expand...

How did you remove the velocity stack. does it just pull out?
 
Does anyone have the OEM part number for the unrestricted velocity stack? I prefer not to modify the restricted one. I am coming up with a part number that shows a $300 part.
 
The parts diagram for the TXC shows 8000H6492. Hall's lists the price as $24.99.

For some reason, the part# that is listed two pages prior, for the TE is actually for a front brake caliper.
 
I pulled out the stack and screen and what night and day, way faster, headed to zypty next week to flash the ecu. So far it runs so much better
 
Take the stack as they can tune. Left my screen in but greased carefully all edges to seal.
 
I would be a bit cautious about removing screen as it does serve a last line of defence against crap getting into motor
I found some such crap on mine

so the verdict is to remove the velocity stack ?


Impressed with how clean the air filter was after a ride though
not like the 125 at all
 
Remove, and cut away perforated restriction and replace. it should accentuate the venturi effect better than just removing it. Usually stacks are tuned to the state of the engine.
 
Modify V stack or buy the TXC one for $25? Anyone know how important O2 sensor removal is? Id rather not do it if its margianal gain.
 
On these bikes, removal of the O2 sensor is not necessary. On the Mikuni injected bikes, it was removed because the connector needed to be shorted with a resistor to tell the EFI system to use the 'powered up' fuel map.

However, with the new bikes, you have to have the ECU programmed to use the non-restricted map. Doing this is pretty much essential for good performance.
 
AndrewS said:
On these bikes, removal of the O2 sensor is not necessary. On the Mikuni injected bikes, it was removed because the connector needed to be shorted with a resistor to tell the EFI system to use the 'powered up' fuel map.

However, with the new bikes, you have to have the ECU programmed to use the non-restricted map. Doing this is pretty much essential for good performance.
Click to expand...
Good call Andrew. Any idea how much remapping should be? Got quoted $75 by the local dealer, seems high.
 
I think I paid around the same for a different dealer to re-map mine. The original dealer didn't know sh@# about Huskies. They won't ever see me again.
 
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