• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2013 Te250r Starting And Runnning Issues

Sissipaska

Sissipaska

Husqvarna
B Class
2013 TE250R. 230 hours. "Power Up" performed when new. Bought the bike from the first owner who had put the bike in storage back in 2015 due to the bike not starting. Keihin EFI.

Parts checked/tested/changed
I performed a manual 5 min TPS reset (~0.68V), changed the battery, cleaned the entire fuel system and repaired a few faulty wires in the loom. I also shimmed down the left exhaust valve per recommendations. New spark NGK CR9EIA spark plug.

After all this the bike started but it will only run with what I believe is a very high idle (42 clicks out on the adjuster). My ear tells me it is maybe around 3000 rpm. When running I can adjust the clicks down to 39-40 but then the bike will not start. Otherwise it runs great on higher revs.

Starter motor not working, will replace the one-way clutch which is faulty.

Starting issues now
1. The bike backfires/kicks back hard when starting sometimes but I've made sure that the timing is spot on at TDC with a measurement tool. The woodruff key on the flywheel looks OK but I will replace that and lap the flywheel.

2. When hot the bike will not start until cooled off or the next day if I put it away. The Water Temp Sensor (on cylinder) shows a cold reading of ~2500 Ohms and hot ~600 Ohms.

3. When pushing the kickstarter, or using the E-start when it catches, you hear the fuel pump priming quickly but the display doesn't power up until after a second after the bike has started. Also the F.I light doesn't light up when pushing the kick lever but flashes when shutting off the bike, or trying to start it when it has just been running. Is this normal?
I'm at a dead end right now. No companies I've found here in Sweden performs re-flash of the ECU or use the HST so I'm on my own here.

I'm leaning towards the fuel pump but wouldn't that cause issues on higher revs?

Any ideas what to check or do? All input is welcomed.
 
I forgot to mention a few things.

I've bench tested the fuel pump and it runs. But of course it could still be problematic if it runs longer than a few seconds on the bench. The injector is also brand new and the throttle body has been thoroughly cleaned by me. The in-tank fuel filter is the original one but it seemed to flow well after some cleaning.
 
Hi sissipaska, I'll tell you my experience with tps and its setting.
When I first put my hands on the bike bought non running (caused by toasted CDI but at that time I was looking for the non running issue) I unbolted the tps, I don't even know why I did it but I was really trying everything to make the bike to start. When I discovered that the cause was the CDI I started rebuilding the bike and after a deep clean of the TB I've put the TPS fully rotated counterclockwise.
Because now I have (I think to have) a little hot start issue with either the kickstarter (really really difficult to start with kickstarter, when cold it takes half the stroke to start) either with the e starter (it also takes a few revolutions with the e-starter) I tried to set the TPS with my ohmeter to be closest to 680 ohms followed by a TPS reset like you did (I still didn't know if its the right procedure). I started the bike and tried to let her idle for 5 minutes in order to let the tps learn its new position (like it was described in a Husky sheet I read here on CH) and i said "tried" because after 3 minutes I shut off the motor because I was afraid of cooking everything...bike after 3 minutes was extremely hot and produced an orrible burning from the engine. After that I've set again the TPS to fully CCW position everithing came back normal, normal temperatures-normal smell etc etc. With tps set like that (fully CCW) bike runs extremely well but it's a little difficult to kickstart when hot but I don't know if it's normal because I've never seen another 310R running. I hope my experience will be useful for you and sorry for my bad english
 
Giack Husky310R said:
Hi sissipaska, I'll tell you my experience with tps and its setting.
When I first put my hands on the bike bought non running (caused by toasted CDI but at that time I was looking for the non running issue) I unbolted the tps, I don't even know why I did it but I was really trying everything to make the bike to start. When I discovered that the cause was the CDI I started rebuilding the bike and after a deep clean of the TB I've put the TPS fully rotated counterclockwise.
Because now I have (I think to have) a little hot start issue with either the kickstarter (really really difficult to start with kickstarter, when cold it takes half the stroke to start) either with the e starter (it also takes a few revolutions with the e-starter) I tried to set the TPS with my ohmeter to be closest to 680 ohms followed by a TPS reset like you did (I still didn't know if its the right procedure). I started the bike and tried to let her idle for 5 minutes in order to let the tps learn its new position (like it was described in a Husky sheet I read here on CH) and i said "tried" because after 3 minutes I shut off the motor because I was afraid of cooking everything...bike after 3 minutes was extremely hot and produced an orrible burning from the engine. After that I've set again the TPS to fully CCW position everithing came back normal, normal temperatures-normal smell etc etc. With tps set like that (fully CCW) bike runs extremely well but it's a little difficult to kickstart when hot but I don't know if it's normal because I've never seen another 310R running. I hope my experience will be useful for you and sorry for my bad english
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input. This is my experience as well. I used a fan and flushed cold water on the radiators when doing the adaptation. I have tried a few different settings and also tried adjusting slowly when the bike is running (too much and it will shut off) and there is a clear difference. I got the bike starting both cold and hot with around 0.68V but the idle is too high IMO. This causes issues when lugging in the trail.

I will test the TPS fully CCW along with some new sensors and hopefully a working starter motor.

I also received some information about where to send my ECU, since I live in Sweden:

http://www.benvanerp.nl/
 
The valves are checked. The left EX Valve is shimmed down a bit. I have checked the decomp mechanism but not performed the spring mod some people have done.

The engine TDC has been checked with a gauge and set thereafter so shouldn't be one tooth off. It might be a broken flywheel key, which I will be swapping this week along with lapping the flywheel.
 
The good news: I fixed the E-start. Was a broken spring on the one-way clutch and a broken key on the starter gears.

The bad news: I was feeding 5V power from a power supply to set the TPS and forgot to disconnect the connector. Somehow I managed to add 12V 1A for just a second before I realized my mistake. Unfortunately this tanked the ECU completely and left my bike with no spark and no power whatsoever.

At least this gave me the chance to borrow a customers 2013 TE and troubleshoot parts with. It turns out my fuel tank works flawlessly on his bike so the pump seems OK. My running issues seem to be due to something with what I suspect has to do with the throttle body or the MAP itself. Fortunately the map on the old exu is not an issue anymore.
 
Good work Sissipaska with the e-start (a little less with the tps :D but they are stupid that too often they happen to me and when you notice it you would want to hammer yourself on the balls :doh:)
Keep us updated on developments that will be usueful to many
Good work :cheers:
 
Thanks mate. Yeah, it was an absolute meltdown of my brain. However, it's really stupid that the ECU can't handle 12V/1A or at least has an built in electronic shut off that would reset itself after a while. Also unfortunate that these ECU aren't easy to come by.

I like the bike but it's impossible to use it here in Sweden with no workshops being capable of working on them. Very strange since they sold them new but then won't take care of the aftersale services. I'm really contemplating purchasing the dealer service tool myself.
 
Sissipaska,
Thanks for starting this forum. I have been having this same issue with my bike for a LONG time now; 2010 TE250. Spent enough money to buy another bike! :(:banghead:

I had the engine rebuilt, which came up with an exhaust valve spring issue, but still didn't solve the problem you describe in your first post. If the exhaust spring pressure isn't strong enough, the valve can slightly fall open once the engine is hot and you'll loose all compression. Even a brand new factory spring came defective (measuring the spring height). Fixing this issue did make my bike run better, but it still would shutdown after the engine was hot, intermittent power issues, or have starting issues.

I am able to run iBeats, only able to adjust the Map when I have the resistor in the place of the O2 sensor.

I have heard of an issue with a faulty coolant temperature sensor. The theory is; if the bike thinks its cold when the bike it already hot, it won't supply the correct amount of fuel. Have you heard of this before???

I have also heard that with the "off-road" exhaust pipe, I can't run the O2 sensor; not enough back pressure. I can't seem to find anyone who has exhaust pipes for this bike. Have you heard of this before???

Currently I am going to chase the fuel pump and lines. If there is a pressure issue, maybe its not getting the right amount of fuel. I'm going to build a 'T' and wire it to the handle bars to watch it while I ride.
 
keg235 said:
Sissipaska,
Thanks for starting this forum. I have been having this same issue with my bike for a LONG time now; 2010 TE250. Spent enough money to buy another bike! :(:banghead:

I had the engine rebuilt, which came up with an exhaust valve spring issue, but still didn't solve the problem you describe in your first post. If the exhaust spring pressure isn't strong enough, the valve can slightly fall open once the engine is hot and you'll loose all compression. Even a brand new factory spring came defective (measuring the spring height). Fixing this issue did make my bike run better, but it still would shutdown after the engine was hot, intermittent power issues, or have starting issues.

I am able to run iBeats, only able to adjust the Map when I have the resistor in the place of the O2 sensor.

I have heard of an issue with a faulty coolant temperature sensor. The theory is; if the bike thinks its cold when the bike it already hot, it won't supply the correct amount of fuel. Have you heard of this before???

I have also heard that with the "off-road" exhaust pipe, I can't run the O2 sensor; not enough back pressure. I can't seem to find anyone who has exhaust pipes for this bike. Have you heard of this before???

Currently I am going to chase the fuel pump and lines. If there is a pressure issue, maybe its not getting the right amount of fuel. I'm going to build a 'T' and wire it to the handle bars to watch it while I ride.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input, much appreciated. The exhaust valve thing is something I haven't heard of before. Nice finding!

1. The coolant temperature sensor issue is something I'm aware of. I fixed a customers bike which had sat for a couple of years and had been at a "Husky dealer". The issue was broken wiring to the CTS. IT had spark but wouldn't allow the fuel system to work since the sensor is in the loop.
On my current bike I bought a new sensor just in case but it measured the same with the multimeter and the bike ran the same so the old sensor was OK.

2. The O2 sensor thing is something I haven't heard of before. On the Mikuni bikes you put a resistor in the O2 connector, but on the Keihin bikes you just unplug the sensor and (what I think) remap the ECU.
Regarding the exhaust for your bike I have only really seen the original and one from Leo Vince, which I believe the Enduro GP-team ran back then.

3. The fuel pump on your Husky is known to bind up when hot on some bikes. It tests out fine on the bench but when the bike is hot isn't providing sufficient pressure or just stops working all together. Best thing to do is to try a tank from another bike and see if that cures your problem.

4. One thing to try out is to reset the Throttle Body butterfly stop screws. These come set from the factory and shouldn't be touched but on some bikes they have moved, or maybe the material has worn down a bit causing enough issue with the idle circuit and TPS. I will try this on my bike and compare it with a customers bike.

5. I don't know if you have tried it but if you have iBeat you could set/reset the TPS and play around a bit with the values mentioned in other threads. My issue is that no one works on the Keihin-system, at least here in Sweden.

Great bikes when they work. For me, fuel injection is just not worth it over carburetor. At least on a carb bike I can fix running issues easily. And in Sweden we don't have major elevation changes so you can do by with two-three jetting setups for all year riding.
 
One thing to note. The coolant temperature sensor on the customer bike was a bit intermittent. This was due to the wiring crimp at the connector was so loose that when he rode the bike it would shut down.

I had the same crimp wiring problem on my 2013 bike. The kill switch wouldn't work and I traced the problem to the connector on the frame. The wiring was corroded inside the crimp causing the kill switch to not work.

Shitty wiring, the same problem on all dirt bikes.
 
Hi all. I have a similar problem with my te310R ... At low revs, it stops. It is as if it is very hot and some sensor is not working properly. Once with speed it works well, but in broken areas of first gear and braking, it stops. Valve clearance verified correctly. I suspect that perhaps the throttle position sensor has been moved, could it be a faulty spark plug? I recently changed it ...
I'm lost...
 
Little update. The bike is now sold without working ECU since I just didn't have the time to work on the bike. The new buyer was a real Italian Husqvarna enthusiast so that was great since that means the bike will probably live on. I tried the bike with a customers ECU and everything worked great, even the idle setting as well as my tank on his bike. My ECU was probably whacked from the start with a bad map/setup or something.

I'm looking for a new bike now. I will probably buy a 2007 - older carb bike or an early red head with Mikuni FI since I know I can work on those bikes.
 
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