• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2013 TE-449 Engine Oil

A

apache te 449

Husqvarna
B Class
I am excited about installing my Full Oil Recirculation Kit from Zip-Ty.

A FEW questions:

After the install, how much oil do I put in? I have heard different amounts. My 2013 manual says like 0.26 us gal which is a tad more than a quart.

Will the Zip-TY full oil recirculation kit enable me to actually put in and run more than a quart of oil? More oil could be better to some extent, right? Cooler running, smoother shifting, etc. But I'm not sure. I would like to run as much oil as possible.

How much oil can I run? How much oil do other purchasers of this beautiful piece of art run in their bikes?

MOST Important!
WHAT OIL DO I BUY?

The 2013 manual I have for my te-449 says to use Castrol GPS SAE 10w-40. I'm not sure if this is a synthetic oil because I haven't purchased any yet.

What Oil should I run? Synthetic or not? I know it 10-40, but is any particular brand better in your experiences?

I found locally (3) different types available. Castrol 4T Motorcycle Oil 10-40, non synthetic. Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10-40 Full Synthetic. And Mobile 1 Racing 4T 10-40 Full Synthetic.

Which Oil is the best for my new bike with 1600 mile on it. And How Much do I fill it with?

Thanks for all your help!
 
Go to Wal-Mart and buy a jug of Mobil 1 0w-40 European car formula.

Just changed mine yesterday with 1300cc of the fresh stuff. It's hard to get all of it in with it on the side stand. With the new version of the system you still have a regular filler cap I believe. (Mine is first gen where the oil returns through the filler hole where add I believe yours will go back to the drain)

In that case you can get about 1200 in there before it wants to run out. Start it up and run it for 30 seconds, shut it down and add the last 100 or so cc. This is the beauty of the ZipTy system. You can run more oil and it won't spooge all over your air filter and bike.
 
Or you can do it my way. Remove the return line from the ZipTy bottle, use a piece of hose to go between the funnel and return line and...voila!20140723_195604.jpg
 
Sorry the pic loads sideways, but you get the idea. Sure, it takes a little longer to get it in there, but it's foolproof.
 
So you guys are saying 0-40w not 10-40w? The manual says to run 10-40W.

Is 0-40w better? Why are you guys running car oil and not bike oil. Im not doubting you guys. You must have a reason.
 
I know, it sounds crazy. I switched from the recommended Castrol to Mobil1 10w-40 4t at about 400 miles. Ran that for 3 oil changes and switched to the 0w40. Here's why we run it. Tinken, with ZipTy racing is the guru as they were the factory off road race team for Husky when our bike was current. He knows every mm of this engine and his research led to him sharing his knowledge with us. Read this, it's the gospel I tell ya...

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/what-kind-of-oil-should-i-use-and-how-much.31911/
 
Huskynoobee said:
I know, it sounds crazy. I switched from the recommended Castrol to Mobil1 10w-40 4t at about 400 miles. Ran that for 3 oil changes and switched to the 0w40. Here's why we run it. Tinken, with ZipTy racing is the guru as they were the factory off road race team for Husky when our bike was current. He knows every mm of this engine and his research led to him sharing his knowledge with us. Read this, it's the gospel I tell ya...

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/what-kind-of-oil-should-i-use-and-how-much.31911/
Click to expand...

wow what a sermon. Tinken would make a great pastor with all his wisdom. Thank you!
 
mlorenzini said:
Where's the sermon? Was it deleted? I didn't get to read it. :(
Click to expand...
I think he was talking about this: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/what-kind-of-oil-should-i-use-and-how-much.31911/

For some reason, people always relate oil thickness to engine protection and the opposite is quite true. Pressure and flow are inversely proportionate, when one is high, the other is low. We vary oil viscosity in order to control the pressure, but it's really high flow that protects our engine and that is what we want. So we limit the pressure to that of which is just needed and we open the flood gates to flow.
 
In the case of our oil pumps and orifices this may be true, but the blanket statement pressure and flow are inversely 'proportionate' is not true. Flow may be proportional to pressure if all else is equal but I'm too lazy to look it up right now... Increased pressure will increase volume, which in context may be increased 'flow'. But I hear you in that a smaller orifice with the same pressure behind it, or thicker fluid through it, will decrease volume.
 
Well if you're going to call me out like that, don't be lazy about it haha. Let me start out by stating that we are discussing oil in a 449 engine and I would be more than happy to discuss laminar flow mechanics, however, it may be well beyond the scope of our audience here on CH who will be quickly clicking on to the next subject.

For flow to occur, there must be a pressure difference ΔP between the ends of a tube, and it can be demonstrated that ΔQ is directly proportional to ΔP. In other words the greater the pressure difference, the greater the flow (I think this is what you were referring to in your statement, not accounting for resistance).

As fluid flows through tubes, like those in a 449 engine, there is resistance between the fluid and the vessel wall that opposes the flow. For any given system the resistance is constant and can be expressed as ΔP/ΔQ=R (constant). Since we cannot change the tubes in our engine, flow remains inversely proportionate to pressure. Flow is affected by a number of other physical characteristics such as tube diameter, length, temperature and viscosity. As the viscosity increases, the flow decreases proportionally, therefore, flow and viscosity are inversely proportional as well. But we have to have some viscosity in order to create pressure from our oil pumps. So if we increase viscosity, pressure jumps at the sacrifice of flow.

CH doesn't really let me write out equations well, but I tried anyway. That funky n is Pi and the underscore is viscosity. With this we can calculate flow more specifically.

ΔQ = π P d4
--------
128 _ l



ΔQ - flow
P - pressure difference
d - diameter of tube
_ - viscosity
l - length of tube
π - PI

I found this resource on the subject. It has some pretty cool diagrams which further explain.
http://www.anesthesia2000.com/physics/Chemistry_Physics/physics19.htm

Now onto turbulent flow... just kidding ;)
 
Stop it your making my head hurt. Just changed oil in yz450 first oil change gonna see how the Mobil 1 0-40 works in her. Worked well in the zx10 probably will blow up lol
 
It will be fine. For a long time 10W30 was an old standard amongst many engines. Even my KTM525 states to use it. Now I see more and more of 5W30 becoming that standard. But when you look into the viscosity of 5W30 it begins to become clear as to why 0W40 works so well. Having a starting viscosity of 75cSt while maintaining 3.8 at 150°C is right where we want to be. I know a couple of people who use 5W30 in their 449's, but I recommend the 0W40.
 
Maybe I am just confused but what does oil pressure from the oil pumps have to do with protection of roller bearings? Roller bearings do not require any pressure except what is built from the rolling element. Motorcycle engines are almost entirely roller bearings not slip/cup type bearings like in auto engines. These require pressure to help push the burned oil out and keep the surfaces separated. All this talk of pressure seams somewhat irreverent to me. The more flow in the system the more often the oil gets changed between the rolling elements (good). But what keeps it in there is the viscosity right? Thin oil will need to get moved more often as it heats up and breaks down in the bearing. Also runs out faster if it is thinner, thus need more flow.... round and round you go. There must be a known optimal "oil change" period for roller bearings. This would be based on viscosity not pressure or flow?? Thus the pump system and specific oil requirements must be matched together. I would think that engine manufacturers would design to these elements and specify in the owners manual what oil to use.
Also sliding elements in a motorcycle engine (piston rings,piston, valve guides) would require viscosity consideration not flow or pressure.
I'm no expert, just some thoughts.
 
Flash319 said:
Also sliding elements in a motorcycle engine (piston rings,piston, valve guides) would require viscosity consideration not flow or pressure.
Click to expand...
Pressure is irrelevant beyond it's purpose of providing the countering force of viscosity. Flow is the key factor in lubricating engines. For more info on this, please see the article Here.
 
Zipty, I was reading your post above and was so impressed not only how accurate your physics explanation was, but also surprised at how familiar the writing on the matter was, then I saw the source you cited--anesthesia (my field), and just had to give props to your post!
 
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