• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2012 WR300 Starting issues driving me nuts, can anyone help?

Jaz_83 said:
Yep, just need to work out how to adjust float levels now haha. I'm a tuning novice.
Click to expand...

Here's a really good pictorial: http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums...carburetor-float-level-more-commentary-13608/

Some more info: http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/floatlevel.html

Note that the method is the same on every carb, but the target height varies. As a starting point, just set the floats parallel to the bottom of the carb body. They are probably way off right now, seems like they all are off as delivered.
 
Ok so the mikuni website says the float height should be 6-7 mm which seems to be where mine was set. Have now removed the screen also.
 
All good, so i have worked out that it obviously has the JD kit with 420 main, 32.5 pilot, have set the floats at 7.25 mm, red needle on the second clip, about to try with air screw at 1.5. Will see how it goes. Have not changed much apart from minor adjustment on float height.
 
Success, 1-3 kicks, i'm happy with that. I was about to pull the plug just to see what it looked like and noticed a tiny amount of oil around it so i tightened before loosening. It took about an eigth of a turn, clearly a potential contributor to the problem. So between a minor adjustment on float height, a tight spark plug and a minor air screw adjustment its not bad but still could be cleaner, maybe a touch leaner on the air screw. Thanks for all the advice guys
 
I would also suggest you try a different two stoke oil,as I have never found that motul oil to burn clean,always seems to run rich and lots of black dribble out the pipe.
I use global racing oil full synthetic and it is awesome,50:1 have done 80rs now and still sounds like new.
 
Don't feel bad, nobody can start my Huskie, nobody. Open throttle a hair, find TDC, and kick it like you mean it, with boots. Very poor kick start design. My knee hurts just thinking about it.
 
Must be lucky but my 09 WR 300 starts easy. Shake the bike, lean it over till some gas comes out the over flow, stand it up, pull out choke and within two kicks it starts. Even wearing tennis shoes.
 
It really makes a difference in how easy the bike is to kickstart in where the kickstarter is mounted at rest. This is how it was mounted when I bought it brand new. I couldn't seem to get enough momemtum out of the kick stroke with it mounted like this.


A while later, I decided to move it forward, so that it was mounted like this. It made a huge difference in getting the motor spinning enough. And yes, it now will touch the exhaust.
 
PowerKord said:
Wow, can't believe they shipped your bike with the kicker like that!:confused:
Click to expand...
And the nut was loose, too! I also noticed something screwy with the rear axle when I put on a new tire. The side with the pull handle on it had the spacer block installed "backwards". I never noticed this until last month. I had to press the block loose and rotate it 180 degrees.
 
Believe it or not your post about the kickstarter just reminded me that I loosened to bolt and forgot all about. I have ridden since then too. Will check it ASAP haha
 
Wow, from 32:1 to a 100:1, crazy variation. I think my next tank onward it will be 40:1 but that is as lean as i will be going.
 
Depends on how hard you run the engine. The best dyno-proven ratio for HP is 24:1. The more oil, the higher the hp and engine life, but the harder it becomes to jet for. It's harder to jet for 24 than 32:1 which is what most of the racers down here run.
 
Tinken said:
Hi. I rebuild engines. :D
Click to expand...
Well, you won't get a chance very often to see any of mine. They all last practically forever, especially the bottom ends.:cheers:

Perhaps I will bring that four stroke one to you guys after several thousand more miles, though.
 
guys i know theres a risk but im not so sure thats to outa line in this age oils are better than ever a buddy of mine runs 80:1 amsoil makes oil for saws an weed eaters that you run at 100:1 if you read the back of a bottle of golden spectro it says its good to 164:1 and if you go to micro blues [ the folks that did the bearings in Walts 177] theirs a weed eater running 200:1 iv run H1R @ 60:1 .. no ill effects i bet we could all run alot leaner if we had the balls to try it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top